Cougar x-lite 29rl1 water heater

caninex2 · 03-13-2017, 07:09 AM

I have a 2017 Cougar X-lite 29rli. Anyone know where the water heater is located?

Javi · 03-13-2017, 07:26 AM

Walk around the trailer and stop when you see something that looks like this... Look behind...

Bolo4u · 03-13-2017, 08:35 AM

Not to hijack, but hot water related... is it normal to have the relief/expansion valve drip with every heat cycle? I have both electric and gas on to speed recovery.

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**chuckster57** · 03-13-2017, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bolo4u

Not to hijack, but hot water related... is it normal to have the relief/expansion valve drip with every heat cycle? I have both electric and gas on to speed recovery.

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No it isn't. Turn off the water heater, open the relief valve taking care NOT to burn yourself. Then turn OFF the city water and turn ON the water pump. Run the hot water for about 3 minutes to create an air gap at the top of the tank.

Turn off the water pump, close the relief valve and then start the pump or turn in city water. Run hot water tap until steady flow. Turn off tap and start heating water. If the valve still leaks it needs to be replaced.

**JRTJH** · 03-13-2017, 08:45 AM

Many water heaters do "drip from the relief valve". It is not a "normal, should happen" event, but it's not usually a symptom of valve failure. Typically, dripping from the relief valve is a sign that the "air gap" inside the tank has filled with water. In theory, the water heater must have air inside the tank to act as an "expansion component". Many people "purge their tank" or otherwise "open the relief valve" to eliminate the air gap. This causes overpressure inside the tank and the excess "leaks through the relief valve".

There is a procedure in your water heater owner's manual to re-establish the air gap. Essentially, when you fill the water heater, the air that's trapped inside forms the "air gap". If you need to 're-establish it" then turn off the water heater, let the water cool, relieve pressure by opening a hot water and cold water faucet inside the trailer, then open the relief valve, allow the water heater to drain through the valve until it stops leaking out, then close the relief valve and the two inside faucets, turn the water to the coach back on. Once full, turn the water heater back on and you're done. DO NOT open the relief valve to "purge the air". If you do, you'll lose your air gap and the relief valve will continue to leak when the water heats and expands inside the tank.

It's all in your owner's manual. If you lost the manual, you can download it here: http://manuals.adventurerv.net/SW6D-...stallation.pdf The air gap procedure is at the bottom of page 6.

Bolo4u · 03-13-2017, 08:52 AM

Thank you both!

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caninex2 · 03-13-2017, 11:25 AM

I'm aware of outside access, but what about bypass access?

limit4 · 03-13-2017, 12:52 PM

On my 26SAB the by pass is behind the water heater. To get to it you have to remove a panel, I think mine had 4 screws. I cut a hole big enough to get to it and then used velcro to keep it in place. Hope this helps.

caninex2 · 03-13-2017, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limit4

On my 26SAB the by pass is behind the water heater. To get to it you have to remove a panel, I think mine had 4 screws. I cut a hole big enough to get to it and then used velcro to keep it in place. Hope this helps.

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javi

Walk around the trailer and stop when you see something that looks like this... Look behind...

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Bolo4u · 03-14-2017, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

No it isn't. Turn off the water heater, open the relief valve taking care NOT to burn yourself. Then turn OFF the city water and turn ON the water pump. Run the hot water for about 3 minutes to create an air gap at the top of the tank.

Turn off the water pump, close the relief valve and then start the pump or turn in city water. Run hot water tap until steady flow. Turn off tap and start heating water. If the valve still leaks it needs to be replaced.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Many water heaters do "drip from the relief valve". It is not a "normal, should happen" event, but it's not usually a symptom of valve failure. Typically, dripping from the relief valve is a sign that the "air gap" inside the tank has filled with water. In theory, the water heater must have air inside the tank to act as an "expansion component". Many people "purge their tank" or otherwise "open the relief valve" to eliminate the air gap. This causes overpressure inside the tank and the excess "leaks through the relief valve".

There is a procedure in your water heater owner's manual to re-establish the air gap. Essentially, when you fill the water heater, the air that's trapped inside forms the "air gap". If you need to 're-establish it" then turn off the water heater, let the water cool, relieve pressure by opening a hot water and cold water faucet inside the trailer, then open the relief valve, allow the water heater to drain through the valve until it stops leaking out, then close the relief valve and the two inside faucets, turn the water to the coach back on. Once full, turn the water heater back on and you're done. DO NOT open the relief valve to "purge the air". If you do, you'll lose your air gap and the relief valve will continue to leak when the water heats and expands inside the tank.

It's all in your owner's manual. If you lost the manual, you can download it here: http://manuals.adventurerv.net/SW6D-...stallation.pdf The air gap procedure is at the bottom of page 6.

Using the info from both of you, and the manual, I was able to reestablish the air gap. Thanks again!

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Bolo4u · 03-20-2017, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bolo4u

Using the info from both of you, and the manual, I was able to reestablish the air gap. Thanks again!

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So I reestablished the air gap last week. This morning, after showering and doing some dishes, I noticed the overflow is weeping again.... grrrr

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**JRTJH** · 03-20-2017, 11:28 AM

If you're sure that you did establish the air gap properly and the relief valve continues to leak, the next step is replacing the relief valve. You can usually find a replacement at Lowe's or Home Depot. I'd urge you to remove the existing relief valve and take it with you to physically compare it to the available items. Don't forget to put Teflon tape on the threads before you install the new one or reinstall the existing one.

Good Luck,

Bolo4u · 03-20-2017, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If you're sure that you did establish the air gap properly and the relief valve continues to leak, the next step is replacing the relief valve. You can usually find a replacement at Lowe's or Home Depot. I'd urge you to remove the existing relief valve and take it with you to physically compare it to the available items. Don't forget to put Teflon tape on the threads before you install the new one or reinstall the existing one.

Good Luck,

I followed the directions in the manual (turn off gas/electric, water, open faucet and relief valve to drain water until water no longer comes from valve) and it had a drip about every few seconds when I closed the valve and faucets, then turned the water back on. I opened a hot faucet until water flowed then shut it off, and turned gas/electric back on. Seemed to have lasted several days (with 3 or so days of no use, everything off as I was away) when I noticed it seeping again today. ☹️

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**chuckster57** · 03-20-2017, 07:58 PM

I'd say it's time to change it. Two different diameter threads, so as John said take it out to match it.

Bolo4u · 03-20-2017, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I'd say it's time to change it. Two different diameter threads, so as John said take it out to match it.

I'm not against changing it.. but this is a 2016, purchased New in September 2016 and moved from the dealer to home, then home to where it's Been parked about 5 days after we bought it. The water heater is used about 4 days a week

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**JRTJH** · 03-21-2017, 06:38 AM

There's always "The rest of the story".....

Suburban warranty In part:
"Suburban will replace any parts that are found defective within the first two years and will pay a warranty service allowance directly to the
recommended Suburban Service Center at rates mutually agreed upon between Suburban and its recommended service centers. Replacement
parts will be shipped FOB the shipping point within the Continental United States, Alaska and Canada to the recommended service center
performing such repairs. All freight, shipping and delivery costs shall be the responsibility of the owner. The exchanged part or unit will be
warranted for only the unexpired portion of the original warranty. Before having warranty repairs made, confirm that the service agency is a
recommended service center for Suburban. DO NOT PAY THE SERVICE AGENCY FOR WARRANTY REPAIRS; SUCH PAYMENTS WILL NOT
BE REIMBURSED"

In order to "employ the warranty" you'll likely be required to take the RV to your dealer's service center, leave it for them to examine, hope that they can duplicate the problem, wait for approval from Suburban for warranty repair, wait for parts delivery, hope that nothing else is damaged while your RV sits on the dealer's lot, return to pick it up and tow it back to storage and hope they did the repair correctly.

Or, you can spend $10 to buy a new relief valve and be done with it.

If your water heater is still "in warranty", you'll need to make the choice.

Good Luck.

Bolo4u · 03-26-2017, 08:54 AM

I removed the stock relief valve and drained the tank as much as possible (turned off water supply, opened all interior faucets and opened the low point drains) and let it sit open for a couple days while away. Purchased a new relief valve (same specs) put some teflon tape on the threads, screwed it in and tightened about 3/4 turn after hand snug, until the opening was pointing down. Closed all faucets and low point drain, and turned on water, opened kitchen faucet to purge air, which should have left an air gap. Turned on both electric and gas heat source to water heater for faster recovery. I used it a couple of times and noticed this morning, after showering, about a tablespoon of water had seeped from the new valve.valve... I'm at a loss....

Is some seepage normal? Is it getting too hot to quickly with both heat sources on, causing an over expansion? Everything else seems to be working normally except for some dripping from the valve as it heats/finishes heating, in this case, from a brand new valve.

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canesfan · 03-26-2017, 09:03 AM

OK, stupid question...are you "sure" the tablespoon of water came from the new valve? I've had a little water in the bottom a few times and it usually/almost always turned out that when I put the anode rod back in I didn't tighten it "just enough". Could it be coming from there?

Bolo4u · 03-26-2017, 09:14 AM

I've never touched the anode rod, and I can see the next drop hanging from the relief valve, waiting to fall.

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**JRTJH** · 03-26-2017, 10:21 AM

Do you use a pressure regulator? Most of us use one as a matter of course, so I didn't think to ask you that question. If you do use one, then it may be "normal for your system" to leak a bit and if you don't, I'd try that next. I can say that I've never had any dripping from the relief valve (in multiple trailers) but that isn't to say that it is "impossible".... If it's only a small 1" puddle occasionally, I don't know that I'd worry about it.

Thinking through all the "other possibilities", you may have a thermostat that is not controlling your upper temperature limit properly. The thermostat is behind the black rubber "push plug" located just to the left of the pressure relief valve. Keep in mind that this is just a SWAG, I have no illusions that changing out the thermostat would have any affect on the leak. I'm just guessing and putting it out there, that "maybe, if all else fails" kind of comment.

But, as I said, for a teaspoonful of water, occasionally, I don't know that I'd go any further than just to consider it an "oh well" kind of thing.

Of course, if you're "hell bent to fix it" contact your dealership, but I wouldn't expect any "miracles" from them. Chances are very good that with all the effort to drag it in, let them keep it for "weeks on end" and when you go to pick it up, I wouldn't be surprised if the work order is cancelled with "Could not duplicate"...

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