Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Repairs & Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-18-2014, 12:32 PM   #1
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 22,394
How to winterize using the antifreeze method?

How do I winterize using the antifreeze method?

NOTE: This is the general instructions for all RV's. Your specific model may have features not commonly found on Keystone products (utility command center, or another type of centralized utility center) which will make it necessary for you to modify these guidelines to meet your model's options. They generally will work for any Keystone RV with some minor adaptations as required.

1. Purchase at least 2, preferably 3 gallons of RV approved non-toxic, anti-freeze (the pink stuff), the appropriate fitting and supply hose for your water pump and an anti-freeze hand pump. All of these are available at most RV stores.

2. Go to the Keystone website and watch the video titled, "Winterize Your RV": http://www.keystonerv.com/customer-service

Once you are familiar with the video and have read and understand the sequence below, you're ready to start the process. I would suggest printing these steps and using them as a “checklist” to make sure you complete all the steps.

3. Drain all fresh water and holding tanks. Flush the black tank thoroughly. It should be clean, although it doesn't need to be "squeaky clean".

4. Make sure the water heater electrical heating element is turned off, then drain water heater by removing the anode rod or, on Atwood water heaters, remove the plastic plug. Check the anode for condition (Atwood HWH does not use an anode rod). Note: opening the relief valve will drain the water faster.

5. Turn water heater by-pass valve to the by-pass position. The by-pass valve is located on the back side of the water heater and may not be accessible without removing an access panel, a drawer or climbing inside a cupboard to reach it.

6. Open all the hot and cold faucets in and outside the RV. Open low point drains on hot and cold water lines. This may take up to 3 or 4 hours before the water stops draining, however usually it's less than one hour.

7. Close all of the faucets and the low point drains after all water has stopped dripping.

8. Remove the fresh water supply hose from the inlet side of the water pump and install the antifreeze suction hose. Insert the suction hose into a gallon of antifreeze. Turn on pump switch. You will notice anti-freeze being drawn from the container and into the pump.

NOTE: During the following steps, monitor the level of anti-freeze in the container, as it empties, turn off the pump and either refill the container or insert the hose into a fresh container of anti-freeze.

9. Starting with the closest cold water faucet, open each one until antifreeze flows from the faucet, then close the handle and move to the next furthest faucet. Repeat until all faucets are protected. Don't forget any outside faucets in the outdoor kitchen, outdoor shower and if your RV is equipped, the washer components (hot, cold, drain). .

10. Flush toilet until anti-freeze begins to flow into the bowl. This will complete the “cold water supply” side of your RV plumbing.

Repeat the above procedure with the HOT water faucets, again starting with the faucet closest to the water pump, and moving to the next faucet in line until all the HOT water faucets flow pink. Don't forget the outdoor kitchen and/or outdoor shower. When all of the faucets and the toilet have been purged of water and flow pink, turn off the water pump, remove the anti-freeze suction hose and replace the FW tank supply line on the pump inlet.

11. Pour about one or two cups of anti-freeze down each sink drain and the shower drain to fill p-traps. Pour about 2 cups of antifreeze into the bowl of the toilet. DO NOT open the valve. Antifreeze on top of the slide valve will protect the rubber seal and keep it moist/pliable during the winter storage.

12. Using the hand pump, instill an adequate amount of anti-freeze into the city water connection to fill the hose. (Usually about one or two cups) This will allow antifreeze to get to the check valve.

13. Using the hand pump, instill antifreeze into the Black tank flush inlet. This will protect the anti-siphon valve and its water lines. This may take up to 1/2 gallon depending on the distance from the inlet port to the black tank.

If you Google "winterizing an RV" you will find loads of information about how to do this. You can also use the "air" method to winterize instead of using RV antifreeze or use a combination of both. These will be discussed in another FAQ topic.

When you are doing the winterizing of your RV, it's a great time to also consider inspecting your axles, suspension, brakes, bearings, tires, running gear and the overall condition of your RV, Starting at the top, from the roof and going all the way down to performing corrosion control on the frame and metal components as well as checking the tire tread for damage.

Some things you might consider are:

1. While your HW tank is drained, take a few minutes to flush it out. You can buy a special wand like adapter to work through the anode rod port, make one yourself, or simply shoot some water in there under high pressure while watching for debris and anything that might have settled to the floor of the tank during use.

2. Clean your EPDM/TPO roof membrane and condition it with your choice of products.

3. Wash and wax your trailer

4. Reinspect for any holes or access points where rodents or insects could get into your RV. Seal them well and add any "anti-rodent" products you might want to add.

5. Clean and dry the refrigerator, furnace, A/C filters.

6. Unplug the TV's and any small appliances you might have on the counters or other places.

7. Clean/shampoo/mop all floors, furniture, drapes, windows, vents, shower walls and upholstery that may need attention.

8. Check, double check and then triple check for any food products or clothing/blankets/pillows that may attract rodents. Remove them, protect them or store them in places that are not accessible by such pests.

9. Remove anything that may be damaged by freezing or that may damage something in your RV by freezing. Especially remove all liquids, canned foods, soda, beer, wine, cleaning supplies, cosmetics, medicines, hair spray, mouthwash, etc.


Winterizing is not a difficult process and when you do it once successfully, it becomes easier each year.
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2014, 05:37 PM   #2
sourdough
Site Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 13,299
Good Post. Good timing. Great info for all. Thanks.
sourdough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2015, 09:45 PM   #3
mamawildbear
Member
 
mamawildbear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 61
Wish I'd seen this post and forum before I had to figure this all out by myself. Just a couple of suggestions for your guide though.

You list this step, "8. Remove the fresh water supply hose from the inlet side of the water pump and install the antifreeze suction hose. "

In our RV, the water pump is incredibly inaccessible and even if it was easier to get to, having to do this every year (or in the case of this year, we winterized twice) would be a big pain in the butt.

Instead, we installed a water pump converter following the directions in this video:

All we needed was a PEX Plumbing 3 way valve and three hose clamps. We cut the line between the pump and the fresh water tank and inserted the valve in between. We leave a section of clear hose coiled up in the compartment and when we need to winterize, we flip the valve, pink the camper and then flip the valve back.

2nd, in step 12 you say, "12. Using the hand pump, instill an adequate amount of anti-freeze into the city water connection to fill the hose. (Usually about one or two cups) This will allow antifreeze to get to the check valve."

We don't have a hand pump. Instead while the suction hose is in the jug of antifreeze, we go to the city water connection and pry out the little domed washer/screen thingy and then push in the little white button until the pink flies out. Your legs might end up a little winterized as well but that's ok.
__________________
2015 Springdale 260LE TT
2005 Ford F150
Stay at Home Mom and Apple At Home Advisor
Camping partners with my Hubby of 22 years
Spud - 14 year old son
Mouse - 12 year old daughter
Pickles the Bagel Hound - 9 year old camping dog
(at home we have Hazel the cat, Gummy the Leopard Gecko and Lachlan the Hanoverian horse)
mamawildbear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2015, 07:01 AM   #4
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 22,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by mamawildbear View Post
Wish I'd seen this post and forum before I had to figure this all out by myself. Just a couple of suggestions for your guide though.

2nd, in step 12 you say, "12. Using the hand pump, instill an adequate amount of anti-freeze into the city water connection to fill the hose. (Usually about one or two cups) This will allow antifreeze to get to the check valve."

We don't have a hand pump. Instead while the suction hose is in the jug of antifreeze, we go to the city water connection and pry out the little domed washer/screen thingy and then push in the little white button until the pink flies out. Your legs might end up a little winterized as well but that's ok.
Be careful doing that. If you push in that "little white button" and dislodge the O-ring that's installed on it, you'll be buying a new backflow valve (or replacing the city water inlet). Without that O-ring in place, when you turn on the water pump, all of your water will flow through the leaking backflow valve and out the city water port. That's why I "omitted that shortcut". It's quite likely to be a bigger problem than it is a "shortcut"....
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2017, 12:53 PM   #5
CrazyCain
Senior Member
 
CrazyCain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Commerce Twp, Mi
Posts: 980
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Be careful doing that. If you push in that "little white button" and dislodge the O-ring that's installed on it, you'll be buying a new backflow valve (or replacing the city water inlet). Without that O-ring in place, when you turn on the water pump, all of your water will flow through the leaking backflow valve and out the city water port. That's why I "omitted that shortcut". It's quite likely to be a bigger problem than it is a "shortcut"....

This is an old thread, but watching a winterizing video from Pete's RV on You Tube, at the end he tells you to do exactly that. Never knew that, so i took a looksy and pryed the screen out and pushed the "little white Button" in a tiny bit. No water came out just a very small woosh of air, and i mean very tiny amount. Next weekend is winetrizing weekend up in East Tawas at the campground storage for the winter, so maybe i will forgo that part when I am done...hope i didn't mess things up already.. Note Didn't push it hard at all, very gently..
__________________
TOM

2011 Chevy Silverado
1500, HD Tow Package
2017 Keystone Hideout 177LHS Carlisle Radial HDs
:
CrazyCain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2017, 02:30 PM   #6
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 22,394
The only purpose of pushing the backflow valve is to displace any water that "might" be in the PEX tubing between the city water inlet and the "T" fitting where the pump connects to that line. All the remaining PEX tubing will be filled with antifreeze by the water pump while drawing it from the antifreeze bottle.

I always use my air compressor to displace as much water from the hot and cold lines as possible. I connect it to the city water inlet, set the regulator at about 35 PSI and let it purge for about 10 minutes. Doing that will displace any (and all) water in the city water PEX tubing between the hose fitting and the "T" where the water pump connects. So, once you start pumping antifreeze through the water pump, it will "backfill" all the way to the city water connector. There's no need to "push that little white thing" if you use an air compressor to displace the water......
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2017, 04:32 PM   #7
ckufehttahw
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Hartland
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by mamawildbear View Post
Wish I'd seen this post and forum before I had to figure this all out by myself. Just a couple of suggestions for your guide though.

You list this step, "8. Remove the fresh water supply hose from the inlet side of the water pump and install the antifreeze suction hose. "

In our RV, the water pump is incredibly inaccessible and even if it was easier to get to, having to do this every year (or in the case of this year, we winterized twice) would be a big pain in the butt.

Instead, we installed a water pump converter following the directions in this video:

All we needed was a PEX Plumbing 3 way valve and three hose clamps. We cut the line between the pump and the fresh water tank and inserted the valve in between. We leave a section of clear hose coiled up in the compartment and when we need to winterize, we flip the valve, pink the camper and then flip the valve back.

2nd, in step 12 you say, "12. Using the hand pump, instill an adequate amount of anti-freeze into the city water connection to fill the hose. (Usually about one or two cups) This will allow antifreeze to get to the check valve."

We don't have a hand pump. Instead while the suction hose is in the jug of antifreeze, we go to the city water connection and pry out the little domed washer/screen thingy and then push in the little white button until the pink flies out. Your legs might end up a little winterized as well but that's ok.
Thats what i use on my fifth wheel, but for my new springdale 311 i have zero access to the pump. If i can't get to the line between my pump and tank how should i go about winterizing? I read some people suggesting to put a couple gallons into the fresh water tank and flush the antifreeze through that way, but i really don't want to put antifreeze in my fresh water tank. Also would i still possibly have water trapped in the city hook up line?
ckufehttahw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2017, 03:27 AM   #8
ctbruce
Site Team
 
ctbruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,879
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckufehttahw View Post
Thats what i use on my fifth wheel, but for my new springdale 311 i have zero access to the pump. If i can't get to the line between my pump and tank how should i go about winterizing? I read some people suggesting to put a couple gallons into the fresh water tank and flush the antifreeze through that way, but i really don't want to put antifreeze in my fresh water tank. Also would i still possibly have water trapped in the city hook up line?
You can blow out the lines or....

I have the same situation, can't get to my pump. So, I'm having the dealer winterize for me and attach the winterize kit at the same time. Win-win for me that way.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
__________________

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
ctbruce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2017, 10:38 AM   #9
KCSA75
Senior Member
 
KCSA75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbruce View Post
You can blow out the lines or....

I have the same situation, can't get to my pump. So, I'm having the dealer winterize for me and attach the winterize kit at the same time. Win-win for me that way.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Which dealer? We bought our Cougar at Camping World and they treated us fine, but we live on the Kansas side and it's a long haul to Grain Valley.
__________________
Willie & Mary
2008 Cougar 29FKS
2009 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCab, Max Tow Package

The wilderness holds answers to questions man has not yet learned to ask...Nancy Newhall
KCSA75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2017, 11:11 AM   #10
ctbruce
Site Team
 
ctbruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,879
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCSA75 View Post
Which dealer? We bought our Cougar at Camping World and they treated us fine, but we live on the Kansas side and it's a long haul to Grain Valley.
Liberty RV in Liberty MO. They do winterization 8 to 4 each day, first come first served. Cal km them at 816.415.2267. Great folks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
__________________

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
ctbruce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2017, 11:32 AM   #11
KCSA75
Senior Member
 
KCSA75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbruce View Post
Liberty RV in Liberty MO. They do winterization 8 to 4 each day, first come first served. Call them at 816.415.2267. Great folks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Thank you!
__________________
Willie & Mary
2008 Cougar 29FKS
2009 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCab, Max Tow Package

The wilderness holds answers to questions man has not yet learned to ask...Nancy Newhall
KCSA75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2018, 08:04 PM   #12
cookinwitdiesel
Senior Member
 
cookinwitdiesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Fairfax
Posts: 507
Well I started running down this checklist tonight (forecast for low of 34, I didn't want to chance it) but ran into 2 roadblocks.

1) What size is the Anode Rod bolt head?!?! I went up to 1" and 24mm and both were too small. Those were the largest I had on me so I will have to make a trip to pick something up for this. This kept me from draining the hot water heater tank properly (still drained the hot lines but want to do it right). How do you guys remove this? My plan was just a breaker bar and the right sized socket. Couldn't get enough grip with the pliers I had on hand, but I do need to grab some good channel locks as well I guess. Picture attached of my Hot Water Heater.

2) I thought I was being slick and bought the Camco Winterization Bypass kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JJ588/). Turns out though that they are expecting a threaded fitting on the end of the hose - not the quick connect one that goes into the pump - for their 3-way valve. Because of this, I will need to get the right hardware to get that valve inline for the pump supply line so that I can just flick the valve up and suck antifreeze instead of pulling from the (then empty) fresh water tank. Open to recommendations here I included a picture of what I currently have in my trailer (the end that goes into the pump supply side)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Anode Rod.jpg
Views:	903
Size:	337.6 KB
ID:	19016   Click image for larger version

Name:	Pump Intake.jpg
Views:	922
Size:	153.4 KB
ID:	19017  
__________________
2019 GMC Sierra 3500HD Denali Diesel DRW (Crew Cab | 8 Ft bed | OEM Puck System | Curt Gooseneck Ball for OEM Puck)
(OLD) 2018 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali Diesel (Crew Cab | 6.6 Ft bed)
2019 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3740BH-R Fifth Wheel (Onan 5500W LP Generator | MORryde SRE4000 Suspension | 3x Cross Members | Sailun S637 ST | Reese GooseBox 20k 2nd Gen)
(OLD) 2018 Keystone Hideout 28RKS Travel Trailer
cookinwitdiesel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2018, 12:39 AM   #13
DocP
Senior Member
 
DocP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Macedonia
Posts: 210
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
Well I started running down this checklist tonight (forecast for low of 34, I didn't want to chance it) but ran into 2 roadblocks.

1) What size is the Anode Rod bolt head?!?! I went up to 1" and 24mm and both were too small. Those were the largest I had on me so I will have to make a trip to pick something up for this. This kept me from draining the hot water heater tank properly (still drained the hot lines but want to do it right). How do you guys remove this? My plan was just a breaker bar and the right sized socket. Couldn't get enough grip with the pliers I had on hand, but I do need to grab some good channel locks as well I guess. Picture attached of my Hot Water Heater.

2) I thought I was being slick and bought the Camco Winterization Bypass kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JJ588/). Turns out though that they are expecting a threaded fitting on the end of the hose - not the quick connect one that goes into the pump - for their 3-way valve. Because of this, I will need to get the right hardware to get that valve inline for the pump supply line so that I can just flick the valve up and suck antifreeze instead of pulling from the (then empty) fresh water tank. Open to recommendations here I included a picture of what I currently have in my trailer (the end that goes into the pump supply side)


For the water heater, it should be a 1-1/16 inch socket (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

For the winterization bypass, I cut the hose in the middle, and installed 2 of these on the cut ends (the bypass valve then screws between them). You'll also need 2 stainless steel hose clamps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may be able to get these locally at a big box store.

Hope this helps.
__________________
DocP (Michael)
2021 Palomino Solaire 260FKBS
2018 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Z71 with 4.10 axle
DocP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2018, 04:01 AM   #14
Wxman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: West Central IN
Posts: 126
If space is tight I believe the fittings on your pump, like mine, can be found under the name Flojet quad port. I purchased through Amazon. May be able to get by with less fittings that way in a tight space.
__________________
Wxman
2018 Passport Elite 19RB (sold)
2021 Jayco Eagle HT 274CKDS
2017 Silverado Z71 5.3L 3.42 gears(sold)
2021 Sierra 2500 4x4 CCSB SLT (gas)
E4 16k/1.6k hitch
Wxman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2018, 04:53 AM   #15
spade117
Senior Member
 
spade117's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 253
Buy these (and a hose clamp): Switch out the pump side line with this and place open end in the anti-freeze, turn pump on go through the rest of the process.

https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-Port-D...RS7G85FS4J2S8Y


https://www.amazon.com/LDR-516-B1210...N7M9MHVRAKQF62
__________________
2018 Springdale Summerland Series 3030BH
2018 Ram 2500 HD 6.4L Hemi Big Horn 4x4
spade117 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2018, 05:06 AM   #16
cookinwitdiesel
Senior Member
 
cookinwitdiesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Fairfax
Posts: 507
Thanks for the replies guys!

I ended up grabbing this to come out of the pump and mate to the F/F adapter on the 3-way bypass valve:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC4WSC/

And this to connect the bypass valve to the to tank side of the line:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IZJ7CW/

In my mind those should fill the need - will report back if I run into any issues.

Also ordered a socket set that goes up to 1 1/4" now as well for that Anode Plug and a tank clean out tool
__________________
2019 GMC Sierra 3500HD Denali Diesel DRW (Crew Cab | 8 Ft bed | OEM Puck System | Curt Gooseneck Ball for OEM Puck)
(OLD) 2018 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali Diesel (Crew Cab | 6.6 Ft bed)
2019 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3740BH-R Fifth Wheel (Onan 5500W LP Generator | MORryde SRE4000 Suspension | 3x Cross Members | Sailun S637 ST | Reese GooseBox 20k 2nd Gen)
(OLD) 2018 Keystone Hideout 28RKS Travel Trailer
cookinwitdiesel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2018, 08:22 AM   #17
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 22,394
I have sockets in every size imaginable, up to 2.5" and use them for "tractor work" on a regular basis. I find that it's much easier to just use two 10" crescent wrenches, I open one to fit the anode nut (slipped on it vertically, not sideways as is usual) and use the second wrench to fit the handle of the first so I can turn it to remove the anode rod. You'll need to reposition the wrench on the anode nut facings after each 1/6th turn, but I find that much easier to use what I have in the trailer tool bag rather than go get a heavy socket set (3/4" drive) just to remove one fitting.

As for FloJet fittings, during winterization, you need to "open" the line from the pump to the fresh water tank, to allow the strainer (if you don't have one on the pump inlet, you should) and the supply line to drain. Disconnecting the fitting at the pump will allow draining to occur so the strainer doesn't freeze and get damaged during the winter.

If you install a "T" valve in the supply line to the pump, you risk antifreeze leaking through the valve and into the fresh water tank. It's not toxic, but does impart a taste into the tank. I find it's easier to pull the blue tab, remove the strainer, let it drain and to insert a FloJet fitting with a 1/2" clear vinyl tube about 3' long on the inlet to the pump. I put the clear tube into a jug of antifreeze, turn on the pump and fill my fresh water lines by opening each faucet then closing them when antifreeze runs undiluted from the faucet. I start with the closest faucet and do all the cold, then do all the hot taps. Don't forget the outside shower and the low point drains.

I leave the strainer disconnected until spring, so there is room for expansion, if anything should "drip and fill the strainer". I haven't had that happen yet, but ....

Using two crescent wrenches makes removing the anode much easier than trying to keep track of the correct size socket, ratchet and extension.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2018, 09:00 AM   #18
spade117
Senior Member
 
spade117's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Don't forget the outside shower and the low point drains.
I don't see it mentioned often, but it seems quite a few of the newer trailers have spray-ports, so don't forget those either.
__________________
2018 Springdale Summerland Series 3030BH
2018 Ram 2500 HD 6.4L Hemi Big Horn 4x4
spade117 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2018, 08:39 PM   #19
cookinwitdiesel
Senior Member
 
cookinwitdiesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Fairfax
Posts: 507
Thanks for the help guys! I got the needed parts and everything went together and worked like a charm. Pics attached. I still need to get an adapter or something so that I can poor some antifreeze down the city water hookup and the black tank flush. They both have the little mesh cone so I couldn't just stick a funnel in there like I was originally planning. The bypass valve actually angles up a little when reinserted into the pump so that should help prevent bleeding back into the fresh water tank. Also, doesn't the pump have a built-in backflow prevention mechanism? Otherwise it would not be able to hold pressure in the lines.

For the low point drains, I ran them until no dripping for the initial emptying of the system, I assume at that point they would fill with antifreeze and be protected as I run it for the rest of the system? They are literally the low point so any air will rise elsewhere (and eventually be pushed out a faucet) leaving just antifreeze in there? No outside spray port but I did run both hot and cold on the outdoor shower.

I have a question about the hot water heater bypass, I have a single valve on the cold line to divert flow up to the hot line and not into the tank. Is there something in the design of the water heater that keeps antifreeze from flowing back into the tank through the hot line as that appears to be possible in my camper. Picture attached.

On an unrelated note, the build quality on these trailers leaves so much to be desired. I had spare pieces of wire loose under the cabinet along with a LOT of saw dust everywhere. They didn't even try to clean up after themselves in there.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Bypass valve 1.jpg
Views:	374
Size:	168.1 KB
ID:	19061   Click image for larger version

Name:	Bypass valve 2.jpg
Views:	552
Size:	260.9 KB
ID:	19062   Click image for larger version

Name:	water heater.jpg
Views:	441
Size:	275.0 KB
ID:	19063  
__________________
2019 GMC Sierra 3500HD Denali Diesel DRW (Crew Cab | 8 Ft bed | OEM Puck System | Curt Gooseneck Ball for OEM Puck)
(OLD) 2018 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali Diesel (Crew Cab | 6.6 Ft bed)
2019 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3740BH-R Fifth Wheel (Onan 5500W LP Generator | MORryde SRE4000 Suspension | 3x Cross Members | Sailun S637 ST | Reese GooseBox 20k 2nd Gen)
(OLD) 2018 Keystone Hideout 28RKS Travel Trailer
cookinwitdiesel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2018, 06:19 AM   #20
ctbruce
Site Team
 
ctbruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,879
The hot water out side has a backflow preventer on it to keep the anti freeze from flowing back into the water heater.
__________________

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
ctbruce is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RVģ is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.