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07-29-2013, 04:00 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 15
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Chocking and leveling
I was thinking of trying one of those tri-levelers for my TT instead of wood blocks have anyone used them? Also the plastic chocks keep coming loose from my tires and the camper shakes driving Miss Gail crazy. How about those ratchet type wheel chocks that go between the tires? I have also seen a type that is like those plastic chocks but are metal and ratchet at the bottom of your tires and keep them tight. Am I a half a bubble off or am I making this harder than necessary. I have 2013 Springdale 33'-6" long. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
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07-29-2013, 04:35 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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I have found that when chocking the wheels, I do the following to ensure they are tight. I set rear chock firmly against tire. I then back up trailer slightly so to put pressure on the chock. While pressure is on rear chock, I set emergency brake in truck and then place front chock firmly against front tire. I then release the parking brake and then both chocks are tightly set creating a valley for the tires. Also, I gave up on the cheap $5 plastic chocks and now use the larger $10 ones. Then about a few inches larger providing better support.
Another thing I do is dig out divets or holes on the ground for the tires on the low side to rest in. This creates a very stable footprint for the tires. I repair the holes iI make be ready leaving.
Steve
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07-29-2013, 04:35 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
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You might be interested in a stabilizer like Steadyfast or JT Strongarm. Both of these seems to greatly reduce shaking/rocking and have received good reviews from our members who have installed them. Do a forum search to find out more info about them or you can go to their websites.
Others have used BAL wheel chocks and have found them beneficial as well but not so much as the Steadyfast or Strongarm stabilizers.
Those who have tried the tripod have been generally disappointed in the results.
"Level" for one isn't for another. Some folks want it perfect, others are more flexible. I think it depends on how much time and effort you personally are willing to put into it.
Everything, of course, might depend on Miss Gail. I think you might be wise to check with her first.
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
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07-29-2013, 04:40 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: RI
Posts: 207
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Camco selles set of 4 stabalizing jack $40 at walmart. We used then on are last trip and they stopped about 90% of the moverment on our 32' bullet. I also use a hammerand knock the chokes under the wheels so they are firm. The level the trailer I user a couple of 8" boards and add the plastic blocks if more hight is needed.:thumbup:
Sent from my BNTV600 using Tapatalk HD
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07-29-2013, 11:01 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Florence WI.
Posts: 336
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I have been using the BAL X-CHOCKS for the last couple of years. They work better for us than regular wheel chocks because they stop the forward and backward movement of the wheels when moving around in the trailer. You will still get some movement up and down on the springs. (Cant stop that short of putting the trailer frame on blocks.) They eliminate most of the trailer movement and we are happy with them. We install them when setting up and go and retighten them about a hour later because once the tires cool down they may loosen up some.
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07-30-2013, 12:34 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 15
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Chocking
Excellent tips y'all. Or should I say you guys. Thanks
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07-30-2013, 05:32 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 552
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Good thread, Gail.
Our 3220BH suffers from pretty good rocking despite my best chocking efforts. I need to upgrade from my cheap plastic chocks, and am strongly considering one of the stabilizing arm solutions, but have also considered something mid-way to provide vertical shake support.
@therink- thanks for your chocking tip; will try that as well.
__________________
2013 Passport 3220BHWE, upgrade axles, Kumho Radial 857's, all LED, TST507 TPMS, Reese DCSC, DIY corner stabilizers
2012 Ram 1500 Sport crew cab, Hemi, 4x4, 3.92 LSD, factory brake controller, S&B CAI w/scoop, Moroso air/oil can, 87mm ported/polished/knife-edged throttle body, Magnaflow exhaust, 180* t-stat, Rear lowered 2", Airlift 1000.
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07-30-2013, 06:07 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: OK
Posts: 67
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I went through the same thing with my first trailer. The wobbly feeling drove me nuts. I installed a third pair of stabilizer jacks just in front of the tires. The jacks helped somewhat, but I still wasn't happy so got a set of bal X-chocks and the problem was solved.
The x-chocks did the job far better than the extra jacks did for stabilizing the trailer. I have not installed the extra jacks on my subsequent campers and have not felt the need to do so when using the x-chocks.
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07-30-2013, 06:45 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAZ23
I have been using the BAL X-CHOCKS for the last couple of years. They work better for us than regular wheel chocks because they stop the forward and backward movement of the wheels when moving around in the trailer. You will still get some movement up and down on the springs. (Cant stop that short of putting the trailer frame on blocks.) They eliminate most of the trailer movement and we are happy with them. We install them when setting up and go and retighten them about a hour later because once the tires cool down they may loosen up some.
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You might want to read the CAUTION in the owner's manual for your X-Chocks. It warns against using them as the only chock for your RV. The procedure for using them states to chock the wheels with "conventional chocks" for safety, then to apply the X-Chocks to help stabilize the RV.
The reason for this, as many here have stated, when you stop to set up camp, the RV tires are warm. Once they cool, the X-Chocks will, in many cases, become loose and not grip the tires adequately to secure the rig. During that time from "application to retightening" if you're on a slope, it may become a "slippery slope" It's best to follow the instructions and use chocks, set up the RV and during the process, add the X-Chocks for stability.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-30-2013, 08:37 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Okanagan, BC
Posts: 916
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Also have a long trailer.
4 corner jacks and the x-chocks still didn't make it as solid as the Mrs. wanted.
Bought the cheap stabilizer from camping world and first trip, it made a huge difference. Second trip, didn't seem to work as well. When I took it off, I found one of the pins had broke. I'm going to have to do a fix to it to make it work again. I'd take it back for a replacement, but there is no Camping world where I live (bought it while on vacation) and it's easier to fix it for me.
This is the one I bought. I think it will do the trick once I fix it.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...abilizer/34337
__________________
2010 Cougar 30RKS
2015 GMC Sierra Max Trailer
"Drinks for 6, Dinner for 4, Sleeps 2"
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07-30-2013, 03:16 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Florence WI.
Posts: 336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
You might want to read the CAUTION in the owner's manual for your X-Chocks. It warns against using them as the only chock for your RV. The procedure for using them states to chock the wheels with "conventional chocks" for safety, then to apply the X-Chocks to help stabilize the RV.
The reason for this, as many here have stated, when you stop to set up camp, the RV tires are warm. Once they cool, the X-Chocks will, in many cases, become loose and not grip the tires adequately to secure the rig. During that time from "application to retightening" if you're on a slope, it may become a "slippery slope" It's best to follow the instructions and use chocks, set up the RV and during the process, add the X-Chocks for stability.
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You are right. I did not mention that I dont use the X-CHOCKS as the only means of stopping wheel movement. It is important to use wheel chocks in addition to the X-CHOCKS to prevent trailer roll. The X-chocks are used by us to aid in stability when moving around inside the trailer. Thanks for helping to clarify my ommision.
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08-06-2013, 05:24 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 441
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I gave up on the plastic chocks for parking the TT. I was getting too much movement on slopes. I bought a heavy all rubber chock from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-...olt-69828.html
The rubber one is taller and the tire bites into it better.... As for rocking movement, I borrowed a design from here and made "x-chocks" from 4x4s and all thread.
__________________
2007 Silverado 2500HD 4X4
2013 Springdale 303BHSSR
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08-07-2013, 07:41 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Saint Charles, Misssoui
Posts: 163
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Us Two
I also use the X-Chocks... love em.. one for each side.. Plus we use the Universal Stabilizers when there is to much movement.. Haven't had to use them on this trlr. yet... Most places we camp are fairly level, but this is what i do... Back or pull in.. side to side level.. get tight against lynx chocks.. parking brake.. cut engine.. set x-chocks.. then UN-hook... and level front to back.. usually there is little movement. I reverse this order, when its time to hook for home...i carry the lynx chock plus the lynx levelers.. and 4 beveled 2-8's..sure makes leveling easy.. i been doing this a few yrs now... just my 2
__________________
Craig
Kathie
2013 Keystone Cougar
X-Lite 31 RKS
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08-17-2013, 06:33 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 96
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I use the fastway step checks -- they are solid, lock tight, and keep the camper from moving at all - they are a little salty in price -- but they do not let my 9,500 camper move a bit.
http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/onestep/
__________________
Andrew Miller
Lancaster, PA
2011 Keystone Passport 3220BH Limited Edition
2010 Ford F-250 Diesel FX4, Crew Cab, 6.5 ft bed
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08-25-2013, 08:47 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
Posts: 24
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Not to hijack this thread but after reading this I have been considering a purchase of the x chocks. What about slide support jacks? Are they needed? Will they help with the movement? Or is most of the movement coming from the tires?
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08-25-2013, 09:01 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
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I run the BAL x-chocks and the steadyfast stabilizers and the trailer is completely rock solid. My gf's dad who has vertigo issues can be in the trailer with absolutely no issues
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08-29-2013, 03:53 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
Posts: 11
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Has anybody used the extended size x-chocks? My trailer seems to have a pretty wide spacing between axles, and according to BAL's website, I'll need the extended length ones. They just don't seem to be as well built (after looking at them in person) as the normal ones. Just hoping they work as well.....
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08-29-2013, 04:36 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 96
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I use the extra long ones...
I have the extra long ones becuase i have the spread axles on my passport. I love them -- they are tight, secure, and my trailer never moves - which is a 35 ft. You have to use the extension bar that comes with them and put in 2 pins to get a nice tight "snap" when you stand on them to lock them down onto the ground. I love them!
__________________
Andrew Miller
Lancaster, PA
2011 Keystone Passport 3220BH Limited Edition
2010 Ford F-250 Diesel FX4, Crew Cab, 6.5 ft bed
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08-30-2013, 06:32 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 7
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Leveling and Chocking
I stumbled into the method that "therink" describes.
A site I had, had quite a slope to it, so I let the chock take the weight of the trailer. Now I set the front or the rear chock, let the truck press against it while the DW sets the opposite side of the wheel.
Haven't had too much luck with the tire spreader type of chock. I find that the most front-to-back flex is where the rubber hits the road.
A set of scissor jacks midship, improves the side to side movement. Always check the scissors jacks on the second day - the ground will compress.
__________________
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Mark
Rochester, NY (Henrietta)
2013 Keystone Bullet 246RBS
2008 F-150 5.4L 4x4 SC
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08-30-2013, 06:52 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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Another thing I do sometimes when set up for more than a few days:
I always carry a 12 ton bottle jack for changing tires. Using a few wood blocks will set the bottle jack under the frame near the axles on door side and jack it just enough to stabilize the frame. This helps reduce bouncing especially when using the entry stairs. I have found that my rig is always more stable on level sites especially when I don't need a bunch of blocks under the rear scissor stabilizers.
I have a set of Bal locking stabilizer bars installed on the landing gear and they are great. I plan on soon adding a set to the rear scissors. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...stabilizer.htm
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