Wiring for LED Strip Lighting

[chartrand]

I just received my LED strip light that will go on my awning, or perhaps on the wall below the awning (I still need to decide). The question is how to wire it? If it's out on the awning I'll just run a wire down the arm back to the trailer. So once the wire is at the trailer what the best way to get it routed?
For example:
Do I just let the wire dangle and plug it in to a 110 volt outlet using the transformer, similar to how most folks plug in most normal awning lights.

Do I drill a hole into my camper and try fishing it down someplace.

Maybe I drill straight through to the area that has all my switches and make a connection there.

Then fill the hole I drill with silicone after I fish the wire through?

Or maybe I connect to DC power from the scare light? Not sure I want the scare light on when the LED awning light is on, but i guess I could remove the bulb?

Pictures would be most helpful if you have done this yourself.

Thanks all,
Pat

[SlowPoke]

Haven't done this myself, YET. However, I've seen a few, and have estimated the way I'd do mine. I have a powered awning, and do prefer to mount the led strip at the roller as opposed to the camper side. Luckily the cables that power the motor, slip into the trailer through a small hole that has been sealed with RTV or similiar. I plan on routing my new cables through that hole , into the cavity where my switches and converter are. I can't take any pics right now, as it's pouring down but if someone else doesn't respond with pics, I'll try to get some tomorrow evening.

I prefer to have a separate switch for anything I add, unless it's an expansion to existing components. Even then I like the option to turn it off and on separately. But that's just my preference...

[chartrand]

Sealing the hole with RTV, what is that silicone maybe?

[SlowPoke]

Yes, it's a silicone based sealant, but from what I have read isn't recommended to use due to the fact it will seal OK the first application, but needs to be completely removed to reapply a maintenance layer of sealant. From what I've read it's better to use something like Geocel MHRV 2300 Tripolymer Sealant which is supposed to be silicone free and supposedly you can simply "re-caulk" if you ever need to without removing the old stuff. I'm certainly not the resident expert on sealants, and I'm researching the forums now to see what others have recommended.

EDIT - After researching, Steve c7010 and others have referenced any butyl caulk OR butyl putty of a decent brand will do the trick.

for example : RED DEVIL Gutter sealant

Searching the net will yield BOO-KOOS of results for different putties/sealants of the butyl type.

[B&T]

Originally Posted by chartrand

I just received my LED strip light that will go on my awning, or perhaps on the wall below the awning (I still need to decide). The question is how to wire it? If it's out on the awning I'll just run a wire down the arm back to the trailer. So once the wire is at the trailer what the best way to get it routed?
For example:
Do I just let the wire dangle and plug it in to a 110 volt outlet using the transformer, similar to how most folks plug in most normal awning lights.

Do I drill a hole into my camper and try fishing it down someplace.

Maybe I drill straight through to the area that has all my switches and make a connection there.

Then fill the hole I drill with silicone after I fish the wire through?

Or maybe I connect to DC power from the scare light? Not sure I want the scare light on when the LED awning light is on, but i guess I could remove the bulb?

Pictures would be most helpful if you have done this yourself.

Thanks all,
Pat

Take a look in this thread -- some good ideas. I personally like Post #8 where he mounted the strips on the roller tube.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...ller#post68595

[f6bits]

When installing mine, I discovered that the walls are packed with solid white foam, like a cheap ice chest. No way to route wires up and down inside my walls. Luckily, my switch panel is right where my LED strip ended so I could drill straight in.

I thought about wiring it to my porch light, but a) my dump valve light is on the same circuit, and b) I wanted to retain full functionality of existing lights.

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by SlowPoke

EDIT - After researching, Steve c7010 and others have referenced any butyl caulk OR butyl putty of a decent brand will do the trick.[/COLOR]

Thanks for the reminder, Steve. Silicone based caulks aren't sticky and will peel right off of the filon or aluminum skins. Just the expansion and contraction of the skin due to warm and cold weather will break the adhesion.

Butyl caulks are very sticky and don't give up that stickiness over time. That's why they are used extensively in the RV industry where there is so much caulking between dissimilar materials.

One special version of butyl caulk is putty tape. The RV industry uses it a lot because it is easily worked and can be applied to the flanges of doors, windows, vents, hatches, etc. When the item is screwed down to the trailer, the putty tape compresses and completely seals the gap. Putty tape is usually found at RV parts counters, but not in home improvement centers. Butyl caulk, on the other hand, is readily available at any home improvement center or hardware store. Even Wal-Mart carries it.

[chartrand]

Originally Posted by B&T

Take a look in this thread -- some good ideas. I personally like Post #8 where he mounted the strips on the roller tube.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...ller#post68595

Great thread, not sure how I missed that one whe I did my search. Thanks...

[SlowPoke]

On the butyl putty tape subject, just had a "Brain Fart" !

Back when I was doing cell site installs, up in PA,NJ, and DE, the less than english speaking individuals I worked with kept calling the rolls we used on the rooftops "Beauty"...they were small black rolls of really sticky putty about 2" wide. I never worried about what it was, at the time, and had a bunch of it left over from install kits, that I threw in the shed. Cell site companies never wanted the kits, and were throwing them away left and right, so they said it was OK for me to keep remnants of the kits. I had almost forgotten I had them until reading back and forth on this post and some others.... Those guys were calling it Beauty because it was easier than saying Butyl for them... darn, that just hit me, I have like 40 rolls of that stuff in my shed! SWEET! Only bad part is it is all in black, no white or grey, but that's OK, 1 or 2 rolls will now go in the toolbox for a quick emergency fix.

Thanks back Steve, had you not mentioned the butyl in the first place I'd never thought about it!