2013 Cougar 280RLS Sewer System

airforceret · 10-01-2013, 05:10 AM

It appears that my black sewer valve is failing as when I removed the drain cap last night, sewage came gushing out (and yes the valve in the storage compartment is closed and has been closed since it was last drained).

It acted as though it was under pressure like the vent is not working properly which may be what caused it to leak past the valve in the first place. It worked fine during our recent vacation.

In order to prevent this from happening again I intend to cut the sewer drain at the turn out and install a valve there so if the others are failing, or inadvertently pulled, it does not fill up 6 feet of 3 inch pipe with sewage.

I'm pretty sure that camper designers are NOT campers!!!

jtyphoid · 10-01-2013, 05:31 AM

Valterra makes a twist-on valve that goes on in place of your cap, then your cap goes on the other side of that. It's much less work than cutting into your plumbing, and provides that last ditch valve should your black or grey start leaking.

airforceret · 10-01-2013, 05:54 AM

I'll definitely look into that... Thanks,

**JRTJH** · 10-01-2013, 07:01 AM

Here's a link to the Valterra valve that most of us use:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...on-valve/27868

There is also another Valterra valve with a clear plastic part so you can watch the discharge and clean out the sewer hose. It is larger, bulkier and looks like it may get damaged if left in place during travel. I'd suggest the first one.

airforceret · 10-01-2013, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Here's a link to the Valterra valve that most of us use:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...on-valve/27868

There is also another Valterra valve with a clear plastic part so you can watch the discharge and clean out the sewer hose. It is larger, bulkier and looks like it may get damaged if left in place during travel. I'd suggest the first one.

This cougar comes with internal tank cleaning, so the one in the link would be ideal. I'm guessing the installed valves are cable operated and there is something blocking it from closing all the way. Would not be surprised if it was debris from when the trailer was built. Long term I will still likely install a permanent valve as this one could easily be stolen or knocked off and that would be a bummer!

With the sealed underbelly it's not likely I'll rip into it to try and fix the main valves.

**JRTJH** · 10-01-2013, 08:08 AM

You can "try" to clear the blockage at the valve by filling your black tank completely (from the toilet or by carefully using the black tank flush system). After it's full, open the valve and "let 'er fly"

If the debris will dislodge, that should do it. Otherwise, it's going into the coroplast and manually cleaning the valve body. The black tank flush isn't real effective at moving a lot of water through the dump valve at one time, so filling the tank repeatedly will give you more volume and if the debris will dislodge, it's that volume of water force that will move it along.

If you think about it, the valve is nothing more than a plastic slide with an O-ring on either side to seal leaks. If anything gets trapped and/or pushed into that rubber O-ring gap, it will cause the plastic slide not to seat and seal properly. Usually, if you can get to the valve, a coat hanger bent in a J hook shape will pull the "offending debris" out of the way and all is good.

Problelm is getting to the valve. It looks like the 280 black tank is on the street side just forward of the slide. It should be a simple matter of taking down the coroplast in that area by removing several of the screws, pulling it down enough to get your upper body into the area and disassembling the valve to clean it. Use good light, lots of towels and I'd suggest flushing the black tanks at least a "bizillion times" before disassembling that valve.

Use gloves and safety glasses

therink · 10-01-2013, 01:28 PM

I recently had a similar issue with the black tank valve in my 2013 Sydney. I removed my valve and found remnants of a baby wipe (cloth) lodged into the valve seat, thus not allowing the valve to close 100%. I was also getting a poo bath when I removed the sewer cap. I cleaned out the valve seat, put it back together and all has been well since then.
For me, flushing didn't work on this one. I had to manually remove the debris lodged into the valve. It was wedged in there good.
Steve

Ken / Claudia · 10-02-2013, 03:57 PM

I finally got the black tank valve not closed treatment. I pushed on the rod handle as the pipe was flowing. The valve rod did move a small amount and it flow stopped. If it moved from travel or I did not completely close it I did not know. I now push on it to make sure it is closed before opening the cap.

**JRTJH** · 10-02-2013, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

I finally got the black tank valve not closed treatment. I pushed on the rod handle as the pipe was flowing. The valve rod did move a small amount and it flow stopped. If it moved from travel or I did not completely close it I did not know. I now push on it to make sure it is closed before opening the cap.

I have an "end cap" with a garden hose connector in it. When I get to the campground, I slowly open the garden hose connector plug. If it leaks, I don't take the cap off to connect the sewer hose until after I drain the contents into a bucket and make sure the trailer pipes are empty. I haven't had a leak in at least 15 years, but if you've ever had a poonami (as Saabdoctor calls it) you'll forever want to avoid a repeat

airforceret · 10-03-2013, 09:10 AM

A lot of great responses! I opted for the add-on valve for now. I considered the cap with a hose fitting, but seriously I had way to much poo juice for a bucket, and since I travel with a blue barker (tote tank), I can just hookup to that and release the valve and not have to worry about overflowing a bucket!

Once it's out of warranty, I will likely rework / reroute the sewer lines and fittings. They are clearly designed by rocket scientists who are not campers!!! LOL

Thanks for all the input!

Ken / Claudia · 10-03-2013, 03:16 PM

I did not know about the end cap with a graden hose cap. That will be purchased soon, thanks.

**JRTJH** · 10-03-2013, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

I did not know about the end cap with a graden hose cap. That will be purchased soon, thanks.

That cap makes a 3" DELUGE more of a 3/4" manageable flow. When a valve leaks and fills the pipe, it's usually just liquid. Trying to get a bucket under a 3" flow is much more apt to spill the contents. Slowly opening a garden hose size drain usually offers enough control to keep the neighbors from setting up their camp wishing their awning was on the "other side" of their RV LOL

Ken / Claudia · 10-04-2013, 08:44 AM

I like simple fixs and that seems like a good investment. I miss the clear plastic connector to the hose, both are on my list, another trip to the store for RV stuff. Now if can learn to spell better. Glad you knew what I was trying to say.

golfpro · 10-05-2013, 09:19 PM

sounds like you have toilet paper stuck in the valve and it is not sealing properly

airforceret · 10-07-2013, 07:24 AM

I messed with it (literally) this weekend and discovered pieces (chunks) of plastic debris coming out when I flushed the tanks. I'm guessing leftovers from installing the vent tube, toilet, etc.

I'm just going to use the add on valve for now. It's likely to get fail again in the future with TP or something. Cable valves just don't seem to work nearly as good as direct contact valves.

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