Entry Door Deadbolt Stuck in Locked Position

[jramsey]

If you tried to unlock the door by putting pressure on the door with your shoulder you may also try to lift the door slightly, sometimes they sag, especially if you unit is not level. Good luck!

[jbsmith]

Originally Posted by far733

I am able to insert the key into the deadbolt key hole and turn it back and forth, but it is not moving the deadbolt.

So basically, you're saying that the key turns fine, but it's not moving the bolt. I think most of the folks that have replied missed that point.

It sounds as though the cam attached to the lock cylinder isn't engaging the bolt. There is a stainless steel connecting rod attaching the back of the lock cylinder to the bolt. See the following pics. The first pic shows the bottom, looking up into the handle/lock assembly. That's the lock cylinder at the top. You can see the silver connecting rod running along the metal plate to the right.



This next pic shows the connecting rod where it rests into a socket in a cam that is turned by the lock cylinder. It just sits in the socket and is held in place by a metal plate attached with two short screws. If one of those screws fell out, it would allow the plate to fall away just enough for the connecting rod to pop out of the socket. There's a spring washer around the "D" that the red plastic lock handle connects to. That would be enough to push the plate away and allow the connecting rod to fall out.



Here's another two pics showing the lock disassembled with its innards exposed. The top pic is the way it is "supposed" to look. The bottom pic shows what probably happened to your lock! See how the rod popped out of the cam? Once you locked it, the rod dropped and now it won't pull the bolt. If the rod fell out of the bolt, the key will turn one direction, but only part way in the other, i.e. the connecting rod will hit the opposite side of the housing.





If you've given up on turning the key back and forth and are ready to get medieval on something, here's what **I** would do.

WARNING!!!! This will probably destroy the lock and possibly damage your door!!! You're on your own if you decide to try this. I've never done it, but appears to be the only way to "pick" the dead bolt if the connecting rod has come loose. If the connecting link came lose from the bolt, you might be SOL and should take it to the dealer and let them break something else!



Hold the outer door latch open and wedge or have someone hold it open for you.
Using a 1/2" to 3/4" carbide tipped drill bit, carefully drill a hole through the aluminum housing.
See the red area in the above pic. Don't go too deep...but there's really nothing there anyway.
You'll want to stay in the rectangular section directly adjacent to the lock cylinder/key hole.
Once you drill this area out, it will expose the connecting rod.
Using a pair of forceps or long needle nose pliers, reach in and pull the connecting rod to the right to disengage the bolt.
Replace the ENTIRE door lock assembly...or if you were careful, you might be able to plug the hole with epoxy.

Let me know if you want more detailed pics of the FIC lock.

Good Luck!!!

[jbsmith]

I opened the lock further and it is entirely possible that something let go inside the cast aluminum parts that comprise the lock assembly. On the backside of the key are two cast aluminum parts. One piece sits between the key lock and the "D" shaped post and cam. If that part were to fall out or a small aluminum pin on the back of the key lock were to shear, then the lock might simply spin and not engage the D/cam part. You might try pushing harder and "wiggling" the key as you turn the key. If the pin got sheared or otherwise compromised, it might turn the lock. If this doesn't work, drilling it still might enable you to disengage the lock, but it will almost certainly be more difficult, possibly requiring you to snip/cut/saw through the connecting rod.

Here's a photo showing the disassembled lock assembly.



The next photo shows the middle part inserted into the D/cam assembly. Note the post/pin sticking up from the backside of the key lock. If this post gets sheared, it won't turn the D/cam assembly.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by far733

I took it out camping over the weekend a couple of weeks ago. Prior to leaving for that trip, I had the same issue while it was parked in my driveway. Eventually it opened. When I parked in in storage (between trips) I locked both locks. I went to get back into the trailer, but could not get the deadbolt to unlock. Again, there is no sticking when I turn the key; it turns freely. The deadbolt just won't move or release when I turn the key.

This statement says that the issue is intermittent.
The key will turn freely until the very end of the cycle, so it may be possible that the bolt is jammed. Have you tried leveling the trailer to see if that corrects the issue?

[jbsmith]

Hmmmm...I'm thinking I should have looked at the floor plan on this trailer earlier. Can you get *into* the trailer any other way than through the main entry door? If you can get inside, just pop the four screws on the backside of the lock and replace it. Once you pull the first four screws, you can then take the inner plate off, disengage the connecting link and slide the bolt open. Problem solved.

I was looking at other Xlite 29BhS and they seem to show a door that appears to be a cargo access hatch opening into the trailer in the rear bunk area. You've also got the laundry chute which someone mentioned earlier. I've heard this is one way to get into the trailer (if small enough). I did this once in our last trailer, a Coachmen 23GSX, after locking myself out.

If this were to happen on my 331MKS I'd have a mess since there's no other entry into the trailer without going through glass. The window on the door would probably be my target if that were the case.

[Terrydactile]

I looked at the door on my Keystone product and you can drive the door hinge pins out and take the door off. You'll need a small diameter pin punch with a long shank or a piece of small diameter steel rod. Just drive the pins out. You also may need to remove the trim piece over the top of the door.

[STEWARDORNG]

I had the lock cylinder get stuck on ours last night to where I could not even get the key into the lock. I was able to get my son (6'2" but skinny) in through the laundry shute and unbolt the handle and plate then move the dead bolt.

[DJ85]

Okay just for agument sake I again asked the dealer tech about locking the deadbolt while in transit. He again told me that this a big no no his words not mine. He said he has replaced enough door handles that there is no way he would ever lock the deadbolt they are not strong enough to hold up to the twisting and binding that the door goes through while driving down the road. I know there was alot of doubter so I asked again. So if you want to lock it go for it it's your choice. This is what I was told twice from two different tech's. Happy Trails!

[rhagfo]

Well I will continue to lock mine until I have an issue! I will make sure that it is free in the strike plate when sitting normal and level, I just don't want to see that door flying open making a left turn!

[Festus2]

Russ -
Have you considered folding the grab handle over so that it rests and "locked" into position against the entry door rather than against the TT side? This way, the grab handle would prevent the door from swinging open. This still leaves your entry door unlocked but makes for easy access into your TT since all you have to do is lift the handle and swing it over to the other side.

[jbsmith]

I upgraded the entire handle/lock assembly on our trailer to the RVLock. (http://rvlock.com). The lock uses either a key fob, touch pad, or backup key to lock/unlock the door. It uses only the dead bolt and doesn't even have the other lock cylinder.

Personally...I've only ever used the dead bolt...since i figure that anyone looking to break into an RV probably knows enough to get a universal key for the FIC lock.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[maddog99]

Well - I have the same exact model, and the same situation just happened to me. Trailer in Storage, but the deadlock is stuck. I even climbed in a pack n play door to try to move the deadbolt from the inside. No go. I suspect the lock is broke. I guess I will be updating the entire lock.

One thing I noticed over the years of owning RVs, is the component quality has really decreased over the years.