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Old 05-04-2017, 08:51 AM   #1
Double b
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Nuts and Bolts, what maintence is truely required?

Todays question is based of readings from other forums for other manufactures and reading this one.

Question, which bolts/nuts need to be re-torqued every year? Read the thread where the Wet Bolt upgrade kit from MorRyde was installed and it stated that the U-bolts on the axels need to be checked for torque (65 in-lbs) and then read on another place slide motors need to be checked yearly (35 in-lbs). Need to add red Locktite to them so the stay torqued. Was under the trailer last night starting the install for the Jack Stabilizers I purchased off Brandon, and notice halve the screws holding on the jacks where loose, worst yet there were bolted on with self tapping screws. one jack only had 3 screws in it. No hole from the forth screw that was mossing. Changing those self-tappers out to lock nuts and bolts this weekend.

What other items (nuts and bolts) need to be checked yearly, or when first new to you? This is our first Trailer and this is all new to us. With our planned long distance trip coming up in 9 weeks, I want to make sure nothing falls off while out on the road. I'm going on vacation, not going to work on the trailer in a different place.
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Old 05-04-2017, 09:35 AM   #2
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Don't forget to check the torque on your lug nuts too. Have a safe and fun trip.


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Old 05-04-2017, 09:46 AM   #3
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I suggest you not use red Loctite on any fasteners for a couple of reasons. One is it may take heat to dismantle and in the case of the u-bolts, they are designed to stretch as does a stiff spring. After a couple of re-tightening's, they will stay torqued.

At the start of every season, I check the cabinet hinge screws inside the trailer. Outside the trailer, I check the u-bolts, shackle bolts, stabilizer and hitch related fasteners. After the first two seasons, none have required re-torqueing.

I also check all the screws under the corner trim strips on the exterior of the TT (four verticals at corners and top two at roof line). Like the inside cabinet hinge screws, I usually find a few corner trim screws that are loose and need tightening or replacement with a #10 sheet metal screw (vs. #8) because they are stripped.

Like Tbos noted, I check the lug nuts before I start to roll each day and after the first 25 and 50 miles if I had the wheel off for some reason.

I use to have to retighten the skirt screws often before I added the supports and speed nuts to the accessible screws. Now I do not need to.

At the start of each season, I also check all the fresh water and drain fitting connections that are accessible. This is also when I check the slide cable slack and adjust. (Have not had to adjust the cables since implementing the slide "stop" modification.)

Too summarize, at the start of each season, I check all connections that are accessible. Over time by doing so, I am learning which are a problem and I implement fixes so I limit the amount of intervention required while on the road.
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Old 05-04-2017, 10:33 AM   #4
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Make sure you reread that other post. The torque on the u-bolt nuts are in FT LBS, not in INCH POUNDS. They could already be too loose, don't want you running with them even looser.
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Old 05-04-2017, 10:34 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky View Post
Make sure you reread that other post. The torque on the u-bolt nuts are in FT LBS, not in INCH POUNDS. They could already be too loose, don't want you running with them even looser.


Agreed. My mistake


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Old 05-04-2017, 11:44 AM   #6
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Check torque on pin box bolts.

Lube landing gear jack screws (see top of legs).

Check battery water level. Add distilled only.

For those who have an Andersen hitch, check the torque on the adapter bolted to the pin, to include the allens out of sight underneath the adapter.

Might be wise to check the awning screws that attach the awning to the trailer (above the roll). Mine were loose.

Ensure ft-lbs used and not in-lbs.

Do a good preflight and carry tools. Stuff can get loose on the road.
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Old 05-04-2017, 12:54 PM   #7
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Having ridden Motorcycles for many years we learned the hard way that vibration can loosen up parts. To, at a glance, check nuts and bolts on our trailer I have put white bathtub caulk on them so that if they start to back off you will see the brake in the caulk. The caulk gets hard and also works like an absorber helping keep things tight. Great for under the trailer where it may be hard to get down and physically check them due to rain and location but you can still see the caulk and if it has been broken. Best of luck! Lug nuts on the other hand check each time you move the trailer also PSI in your cold tires. An once of prevention, turn off your water at the stand when you leave trailer.
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Old 05-04-2017, 01:18 PM   #8
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Many years of owning RVs has made me a little (a LOT!) paranoid. If it has threads, it gets checked. If it's a load bearing fastener, then it gets torqued - ie lug nuts, shackles, U-bolts, hitch bolts, pin box, etc, etc, etc. My RV tool box has gone from a 6x6x12 inch to a big DeWalt stacker that is about as heavy as I can handle. I also have a little tool box in an inside cupboard just for those quick fixes - a few screw drivers, pliers, DVM, fuses and an assortment of odds and ends. Then there is that plastic box with miscellaneous screws, nuts and bolts and seldom has the right size so gets bigger and bigger after a hardware store trip - I always buy 4 or 5 if I need 1 or 2.
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:35 PM   #9
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How much torque apply to keystone cougar travel trailer lug nuts?
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:43 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Mirabal View Post
How much torque apply to keystone cougar travel trailer lug nuts?
What does your manual say? That will be the answer for your trailer.
There's not enough info in your post to answer your question otherwise.
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:08 PM   #11
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Never retorque a fastener that requires Loctite. Once the Loctite is set, if you retorque the Loctite is now essentially useless.
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:24 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by bob91yj View Post
Never retorque a fastener that requires Loctite. once the Loctite is set, if you retorque the Loctite is now essentially useless.
DO NOT use Loctite on the lug nuts!!!
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:25 PM   #13
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Smile Mirabal

Thank you for your response just over looked info in owners mannal! New RVers and lots to read and remember! Trying to get things ready for first road trip!
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:21 PM   #14
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Be sure to add your model number to your profile. We're here to help and there is no such thing as too much info.
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Old 10-12-2018, 11:22 PM   #15
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Here's a suggestion from the aircraft industry. When you've torqued a nut to the specifications, put a little red nail polish across the nut and onto the threads. This makes it blindingly obvious if (when) a nut has come loose. This also works across the heads of bolts and screws. No need to overdo it though, just a small dab on one side. It works kind of like those indicators you see on the wheel nuts of semi trailers.
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzcop63 View Post
Having ridden Motorcycles for many years we learned the hard way that vibration can loosen up parts. To, at a glance, check nuts and bolts on our trailer I have put white bathtub caulk on them so that if they start to back off you will see the brake in the caulk. The caulk gets hard and also works like an absorber helping keep things tight. Great for under the trailer where it may be hard to get down and physically check them due to rain and location but you can still see the caulk and if it has been broken. Best of luck! Lug nuts on the other hand check each time you move the trailer also PSI in your cold tires. An once of prevention, turn off your water at the stand when you leave trailer.
Buzz must be an old Harley rider. Many a rear view mirror left on the road from those old bikes. Just remember the suspension on trailers are not designed for ride quality. OEM tires are not balanced, no shocks, box bolted direct to frame, results in lots of vibrations. Lots of good suggestions given would just add one more. If you have aluminum wheels check air pressure and lug torque after large temperature swings. The aluminum rims will expand/contract at a faster and greater rate than the cast iron and steel components it's bolted to. Enjoy your trip.
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Old 10-13-2018, 04:40 AM   #17
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Back in the 60s I worked for TransCanada Pipelines. Being a mechanic most of my work was done on (new to the company back then) turbine driven compressors. The compressors were in excess of 12' in diameter and turned in excess of 10,000rpm. It was almost grounds for dismissal if anything was put on a thread that required torquing. All threads were cleaned with a product used back then called carbon tetrachloride. Factory new nuts also soaked in the stuff. Like the 'lil' old lady in the commercial says "I use that s*** on everything" It was much like today's brake cleaner. JMO YMMV
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:22 AM   #18
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I go by what the manual of what ever I own says. My reasoning is since I did not have any part of the engineering of any of it's parts or know the testing of any said parts. Maybe it is in print for a reason. It maybe part of warranty and for safety. When reading a manual I ask questions if I do not understand, no big deal.
RVs are maintained in 2 ways; the dealer or most common the owner. By reading RV sites it is clear many RVs do not get maintained by either.
I do the maintenance, so at least once a year, when I check the tires, I also check lug nuts, brakes, wheel bearings, I am also under the trailer looking at everything else. Point is I do not just go and look or check just 1 item, easy to get several done at once.
Get to know what everything looks like when it's right and when it's wrong. Do a good long walk around before every trip. This is about the same as a boat and to a lesser degree any motor vehicle.
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:43 AM   #19
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Torque for Dexter axles. Lippert most likely the same
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