Trailer brakes not worth diddly!

Campy · 08-29-2016, 06:02 PM

Been having some issues with the trailer brakes on our Cougar. Could never get any decent stopping power out of them with the Chevy IBC built into the truck. Doing some checking around I decided to install a P3 brake controller and disable the truck IBC. The P3 has a "boost" feature that helps a bunch but the trailer still feels like it's not helping the rig to stop even with the controller cranked all the way up. My last camper (slightly smaller) would actually lock up and skid the tires if the controller was cranked up too high. I have adjusted the brakes and even made sure they were installed on the right sides but can't seem to find a reason for the weak breaking power, could it actually be the wire size the factory used to wire the camper brakes? Seems like kinda small wire just by looking at it and the wire that passes through the axle to the right side brake is even smaller!

bobbecky · 08-29-2016, 06:59 PM

Before you worry about wire gauge, I would be checking to see if the wire is intact to all the brakes. It's possible you have a broken wire underneath your rig or even inside the brake drum area and may only have one or two of the brakes working.

**chuckster57** · 08-29-2016, 07:54 PM

Quick check: amp gauge on the break away wiring, pull the pin and you should see 12-14 amps. Any less and magnet or wiring is suspect.

Campy · 08-30-2016, 03:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Quick check: amp gauge on the break away wiring, pull the pin and you should see 12-14 amps. Any less and magnet or wiring is suspect.

Could you tell me how to setup that test, where would the amp gauge go in the wiring and should the truck be attached for the test?

Comptech · 08-30-2016, 04:24 AM

My 2012 cougar is the same way. I did some investigation and did find one of the wires loose going to the break drum. I had to pull part of the Coroplast down to get to it. Was a loose crimp. But even after that they are still squishy. I have an F350 with quite a bit of stopping power. But still I too would like to know why they are not up to par. I only travel to a lake about 2 hours away one or twice a year so I haven't really felt the need to investigate further. If I did more road travel I would. I think at the end of the season I may drive it to the dealer and have them inspect the trailer and check the brakes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Campy

Been having some issues with the trailer brakes on our Cougar. Could never get any decent stopping power out of them with the Chevy IBC built into the truck. Doing some checking around I decided to install a P3 brake controller and disable the truck IBC. The P3 has a "boost" feature that helps a bunch but the trailer still feels like it's not helping the rig to stop even with the controller cranked all the way up. My last camper (slightly smaller) would actually lock up and skid the tires if the controller was cranked up too high. I have adjusted the brakes and even made sure they were installed on the right sides but can't seem to find a reason for the weak breaking power, could it actually be the wire size the factory used to wire the camper brakes? Seems like kinda small wire just by looking at it and the wire that passes through the axle to the right side brake is even smaller!

**chuckster57** · 08-30-2016, 04:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Campy

Could you tell me how to setup that test, where would the amp gauge go in the wiring and should the truck be attached for the test?

We use a clamp on amp meter on one of the wires from the break away switch. Since we do it in the shop, normally we are plugged in to insure full voltage. Hooked to truck would work as long as it's charging. A unit may sit for a while before it comes up for work so that's why we plug in.

Once the amp meter is around the wire, you set it to DC amps and pull the pin.

Desert185 · 08-30-2016, 04:42 PM

An example of an inductive ammeter:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digit...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

gearhead · 08-30-2016, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

We use a clamp on amp meter on one of the wires from the break away switch. Since we do it in the shop, normally we are plugged in to insure full voltage. Hooked to truck would work as long as it's charging. A unit may sit for a while before it comes up for work so that's why we plug in.

Once the amp meter is around the wire, you set it to DC amps and pull the pin.

hey Chuckster....are you hooking the amp meter on the main wire from the breakaway switch, or on each wire at each wheel? Or both?

**chuckster57** · 08-30-2016, 06:24 PM

At the break away. We measure total amp draw. If it's low, then we start looking at wires at backing plates and go from there.

Campy · 08-31-2016, 03:32 AM

There is something wrong with my Cougar for sure, last night I got hooked up to my toyhauler and the brake controller was still cranked up for the Cougar and all 4 wheels are locking up. Going back in and setting it up I ended up up with it set on 4.5 down from max and I can feel that smaller camper pulling on the truck. The big Cougar does not feel like its helping at all so since it's done for this season i'm going to find out whats going on as it's not safe the way it is.

xcntrk · 08-31-2016, 03:33 AM

I think you're on the right track looking into the electrical connections.

I once had to replace the 7-pin plug on the end of my TT as it got caught up in my WD hitch and became damaged. After the replacement, I noticed the braking power was way stronger then previously. So much that I had to turn the BC gain way down. Only thing changed before and after was the 7-pin plug.

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