|
11-15-2015, 08:53 PM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Callaway Maryland
Posts: 3
|
Step by Step instruction to Winterize a Montana High Country
I am looking for step by steps to winterize my High country 318. I am supposed to have a "Easy Winterization Kit" I haven't found a kit yet, I don't understand what its supposed to be. I had the dealer winterize last year but would like to do it myself this year.
As stated, looking for some instructions specifically showing my system.
Thank you in advance
__________________
Keith Johnson
AFCM(AW) USN RET
2014 High Country 318RE
2012 F-250
2013 Honda Gold Wing
|
|
|
11-15-2015, 10:59 PM
|
#2
|
Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
|
If you do a forum search, you will find numerous threads about winterizing - many of them have a step-by-step outline for you. Also you can Google "winterizing an RV" and finds scads of sites with this information.
Check out Keystone's website - they have a video on this topic. There are also plenty of YouTube videos out there for you to look at.
Finally, go to the Montana owners' forum - lots of good stuff there.
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
|
|
|
11-16-2015, 08:54 PM
|
#3
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Atlanta, ga
Posts: 49
|
On our High Country (2015 340bhs) the "easy winterization" kit refers to the freezeguard intake port near the water connections.
On mine assuming you were doing a antifreeze in pipes type winterization you would switch the water heater lever to bypass, drain the water heater tank, hookup a hose (2-3ft in length) to the freezeguard port and insert that hose into a bottle of RV antifreeze. Power up the water pump and run the faucets until anitfreeze comes out from both hot and cold sides. dump extra antifreeze into sink drains and I like to dump 1/2g in each tank, black and gray to keep valves from freezing....
Thats how I plan to do it.
|
|
|
11-17-2015, 03:26 AM
|
#4
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: sandusky ohio
Posts: 94
|
winterize
if you have a problem getting pump to suck antifreeze disconnect hose and reverse pointed rubber hose gasket ,then replace hose.this will push against check valve allowing pump to suck better,dont forget to reverse filter gasket when done(point side out).if you dont when you use pump in spring it will shoot water out of freezeguard port.in spring leave hot water tank on bypass,hookup hose to city water supply and run all hot and cold lines to get antifreeze out of all lines,then take hw heater off bypass,put plug in and fill
|
|
|
11-17-2015, 03:54 AM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Clinton, Tn
Posts: 270
|
I just did mine for the first time a couple of days ago. I had 6 gallons of anti-freeze because we have a washer/dryer. I had a lot of trouble with air sucking in the lines from somewhere and about never got it to pull the anti-freeze without a bunch of air. I blew out my lines first, then hooked up the short hose to a large container I had filled with about 4 gallons of anti-freeze. It wasn't until I connected my outside shower to the city water that I got the full stream.
Don't forget to get your "fill" line to your fresh water tank and your black tank flush.
__________________
2015 Montana High Country 305RL
Previous campers:
2008 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2603
1998 Coleman Grandview pop-up with slide
Trucks:
2006 Ford F350 CC, SB, DRW, 4x4
1992 Ford F150 SC, SB, 4x4
|
|
|
11-17-2015, 04:06 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 1,196
|
Although not model specific, you can find my winterization check list here: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/album.php?albumid=735
BTW: I always do a thorough blank tank flush at the last campground we stay at prior to winterizing the trailer.
__________________
2018 Jayco Eagle HT 265BHS (previous: 2015 23RB Passport Elite, ProPride)
2015 F250 XLT SB Crew, 6.2l gas
PullRite 16K SuperGlide w/SuperRail
Reese 5th Airborne (bagged) Pin Box
RoadMaster Shock Kit
X-Factor Cross Bracing
|
|
|
11-17-2015, 06:20 AM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vermont
Posts: 367
|
Under the RV, you should have both a fresh water tank drain and two low-point drains. Take the caps off all three and open inside faucets. Activate hot water tank bypass lever just behind the hot water tank. Remove HW heater cover and remove plug to drain. Your winterization kit also has a lever on the tee valve and should have a clear hose with it. Once everything is drained, close all faucets and cap the fresh and low-point drains, place the clear hose into a jug of RV anti freeze, have a partner turn on water pump. While one person works with the anti-freeze jugs (takes about 3 or more), the other goes to each faucet and turns on until it runs pink. Do both hot and cold faucets, one at a time. Don't forget the shower and the toilet. Finally, do the outside shower and black tank system. I found that when the jugs got down to 1/4 to 1/3 full, it started sucking air, so I would switch to a fresh jug, then combine the pink stuff from two or more jugs into one.
Left over pink stuff can be poured into sink, shower and toilet traps. Leave an inch of it in the toilet to keep the gasket wet.
Another part of winterization that RV shops don't do is mice prevention. I get a case or two of Fresh Cab rodent repellent and distribute through all storage areas and floor level cabinets.
__________________
2015 Ford F-350 XLT Ruby Red 6.7L Powerstroke, 4x4, Short Bed, Andersen Ultimate Hitch
Cougar High Country 299RKS, Mor/Ryde pin box, 200w solar
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|