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Old 02-26-2013, 12:32 PM   #21
enyapp
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Heart of Dixie
Posts: 27
My 2013 Bullet Premier 31BHPR electric tounge jack RET/EXT switch was sticking in both directions. I'm having it looked at under warranty at the service department now.
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:19 PM   #22
michol02
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Location: Sulphur, La
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I bought a Husky last year, and haven't had a bit of trouble from it yet, and I use it quite a bit(we camp almost every weekend). It has an auto shutoff when it reaches its max extension/retraction, it's not as noisy as the white box one I had previously, it has plenty of power(4500lbs), and best of all, it has a remote control. I can raise or lower it from inside the truck when backing to align the ball and hitch(using a backup camera), and I can stand next to the level on the side of the trailer and level it front to back. I found it on amazon. Husky 87641 Brute Electric Jack with Wireless Remote - 4500 lbs. Capacity. $254 with free shipping.
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:38 PM   #23
rode2nowhere
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My LCI tongue jack is 2 years old and very noisy, I expect it to die soon,. electric stabilizer jacks I have had no trouble with.
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Old 06-21-2015, 06:42 PM   #24
tribalsimba
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Location: Edinboro, PA
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LCI Tongue Jack finally quit

Ok, so after popping a fuse or two last year, then being intentional to stay in the "sweet spot" of about 10" with the tongue jack this past weekend as I was hitching to leave, the switches did nothing. Only the light lit, affirming it wasn't the fuse.

LCI will tell you this is a sealed, non serviceable unit, basically maintenance free, and disposable at failure. Contrary, I decided to at least try before replacing.

Step 1: Pull the related fuse to disconnect power from the jack.
Step 2: Remove 4 plastic case screws.
Step 3: Remove 8 machine screws from top plate. Manual crank hex head will come off with its gear assemble with the top plate. For me, these innerds were recently still greased, just a little dry. Lightly grease if everything looks good, and reassemble.

Step 4: Remove the black plastic caps from the side of the plastic housing, and remove the two motor assembly mounting bolts.
Step 5: Remove motor assembly from jack, you may need to clip lower zip tie at this time.
Step 6: Pull cotter pin from jack screw head, to remove the motor coupler from jack head, and the (outer) washer and bearing.
Step 7: At this point, you need to raise your camper a little, the let your front stabilizers down to support the weight, or jack stands under the frame rails.
Step 8: Now that there is no load on the jack, you should be able to slip the inner tube, and screw rod together, out the bottom of the jack post. You may have to unbolt the jack post from the tongue frame (triangle plate) (3 bolts).
Step 9: Remove (inner) washer and bearing from top of inner jack post, on jack screw. Screw jack screw all the way into the inner post, now that its removed from the outer jack post. When toward the end of threads, it will get tougher, let the threads open the top stop in the last thread, or file it, whichever way you prefer.
Step 10: Clean all the grease from the inner post and jack screw. I use gasoline first, the degreaser, then soapy water.
Step 11: Use 150 grit Emory sand paper, with Jack Screw on a drill or other turning device, and smooth all the roughness from the jack screw. Mine felt sharp at first when spinning it in my hand. Also do this to the nut in the top of the inner jack post. Also smooth any roughness from the outside of the inner jack post, and on the inside of the outer jack post/stand. Wash everything again to remove the filings.
Step 12: Heavily Grease the screw between all threads. Leave any extra at the base of the screw. I use automotive axle grease.
Step 13: ReInstall jack screw into inner tube.
Step 14: Grease outer surface of inner tube. Reinstall (inner) bearing and washer on jack screw. Reinstall inner tube into outer.
Step 15: Mount outer tube with 3 bolts to camper frame.
Step 16: Reinstall (outer bearing, washer, and coupler. Insert pin, and cotter pin into coupler.
Step 17: Complete reassembly.

At this point you may still need to fix wiring, switches, or the actual motor. But in my case, regreasing jack and cleaning switch contacts, and all switch termination connectors, and I'm back in business better than ever.

I recommend if your LPI jack is working, but sounds laboring, perform this, and increase the life of your jack.

Annually, support camper, with bumper practically on the driveway, retract jack all the way, clean and grease bottom of jack screw (without disassembly), inside inner tube, then extend jack all the way and clean and relube inner post exterior.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:59 AM   #25
jsmith948
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Great post. Many would have just opted for a new jack and dump the old one. The way I see it, if you had gotten it all apart only to learn it could not be repaired you would have lost nothing but a little time. I know that I derive a real sense of satisfaction whenever I am able to repair something myself.
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