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Old 06-14-2020, 12:20 PM   #1
Muskateer10
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Keystone BUllet Premier 29RK Water Pump Location

I am currently about 200 miles away from my RV(it is a 2020 model by the way). I had to come home to pick up a new water pump (fresh water tank is filling when connected to city water). I know the water pump is located behind the city water fittings behind an access cover panel that is secured with 4 screws (how handy is that for winterization...lol). However, I was wondering if there is an easier way to access it from inside the camper (it might save me some time)? I know people said look under the laundry shoot. My laundry shoot is on the opposite side from where the pump is located; So I know the pump is on the drivers side of the RV. I am heading back up to the RV tomorrow 6/15/2020. Thanks for any help.
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Old 06-14-2020, 01:40 PM   #2
Northofu1
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Just a couple of questions.
Why are you getting a new pump? Is the one in trailer no good?
Did you try switching hose to fresh water to see maybe if the hoses were crossed?
Maybe your pump has the winterization kit and it's on bypass?
Thanks
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Old 06-14-2020, 02:11 PM   #3
Muskateer10
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My hose doesn't fit on the fresh water inlet. The RV shop told me it is a "bad pump," and gave me a replacement. What is happening is when connected to "city water" after a period of several hours (6-10 or so), the fresh water tank fills up with water. If the hoses were swapped the fresh water tank would "or should" fill in a matter of minutes. So, I am getting a water leak out of the fresh water tank vent, after the fresh water tank fills up. I have seen "using google" that other people with slightly older Keystone RV's have had identical problems with the fresh water tank filling up due to failed water pump. Edit: I should have added that I don't know if this is a Keystone only problem or if it is due to a specific brand of water pump.
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Old 06-14-2020, 02:23 PM   #4
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Thanks for the clarification.
Good luck tomorrow
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Old 06-14-2020, 03:32 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Muskateer10 View Post
I am currently about 200 miles away from my RV(it is a 2020 model by the way). I had to come home to pick up a new water pump (fresh water tank is filling when connected to city water). I know the water pump is located behind the city water fittings behind an access cover panel that is secured with 4 screws (how handy is that for winterization...lol). However, I was wondering if there is an easier way to access it from inside the camper (it might save me some time)? I know people said look under the laundry shoot. My laundry shoot is on the opposite side from where the pump is located; So I know the pump is on the drivers side of the RV. I am heading back up to the RV tomorrow 6/15/2020. Thanks for any help.
I can access mine from inside the bedroom. On the Drivers side, there is a step down in front of the bed nightstand. Remove the 5 screws holding the top cover on and you will see the pump.
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Old 06-14-2020, 04:33 PM   #6
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I can access mine from inside the bedroom. On the Drivers side, there is a step down in front of the bed nightstand. Remove the 5 screws holding the top cover on and you will see the pump.
Thanks! Do you think it is easier to access from the night stand area, or would be easier to go through the cargo bay access area?
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Old 06-14-2020, 04:56 PM   #7
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Thanks! Do you think it is easier to access from the night stand area, or would be easier to go through the cargo bay access area?
Mine isn't accessible through the cargo bay, only from inside the bedroom.
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:21 PM   #8
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Oh I wonder if there is a difference. Mine is a 2020 Bullet Premier 29RK. Too winterize I have to take 3 screws out of a panel inside of the cargo bay (Near the city/fresh water connections). I can see the pump from there. But, it looks like I would have to do some things "blind" as to removing the pump itself. I will look inside the RV when I get back up there and check for access. Thanks again.
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:23 PM   #9
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Oh I wonder if there is a difference. Mine is a 2020 Bullet Premier 29RK. Too winterize I have to take 3 screws out of a panel inside of the cargo bay (Near the city/fresh water connections). I can see the pump from there. But, it looks like I would have to do some things "blind" as to removing the pump itself. I will look inside the RV when I get back up there and check for access. Thanks again.
No problem, definitely let us know what you find!
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Old 06-14-2020, 06:22 PM   #10
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Mine is located inside the nightstand on the side with the slide out. I pulled the panel off the lower face of the nightstand and it was right there. Last fall when we were prepping for storage I lifted the bed (for the first time) to put some bins under there and saw an access panel to the pump bay there.
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Old 06-14-2020, 06:57 PM   #11
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A couple of thoughts: The pump is probably easier to access from the top. Whether the "nightstand top comes off" or there's an access port under the "lift up bed platform" or the front of the "nightstand" is the access.

On many trailers, mine included, it's a hassle to access the winterization port and hose. I cut a 6" hole in the passthrough wall, installed a 6" round marine cover plate. now I just remove the cover plate ( 1/4 turn) and the hose is right there.

As for your fresh water tank filling through the water pump. Sometimes that happens because there's plastic shavings from the factory that get sucked into the pump diaphragm. When they're drilling the holes for the water tank components, those shavings fall into the tank. If you don't have an inlet screen, you might want to consider buying one. Easy to install and completely eliminates the problem.

Also, if you don't have a pressure regulator for your city water hookup, you might want to get one. The trailer system is rated about 60 PSI or so, but many campground water systems can creep up to around 100 PSI or even more during some periods of minimal use (like in the middle of the night). That high pressure can push water through the pump diaphragm, even on a fully operational pump.
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Old 06-14-2020, 08:31 PM   #12
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Yes, I did not have a pressure reducer installed at first. Then I found out the campground operates at 65 PSI (at the pump station). They have to do this to maintain "useable pressure" throughout the campground. However, my site should be at about 25-30 PSI "by observation." But, I can see if nobody is using any water then it seems logical that everybody's pressure should be at the 65PSI. IMO - I am guessing of course. One other detail is nobody else in the RV park has had any similar problems.
I did install the pressure regulator that came in the kit, as soon as I became aware of the pump pressure. The RV shop did not think this was a pressure related problem, however.
I have also read about the plastic shaving causing problems. I wasn't sure if that applied being as I have never filled or put any water into the fresh water tank (fresh water tank registered empty when I plugged into the RV park water supply). In fact I wasn't even aware there was a possibility of the fresh water tank filling- I thought these were to separate and distinct systems. So I was surprised when the RV dealer asked me to check the fill status. Surprise, surprise. LoL
After seeing the water system schematic I now see how it can happen.

I am curious as to what this inlet screen is you are referring too? There is a screen where I connect the water hose if that is what you mean.
My RV is set up where there is only storage under the foot of the bed frame. It does not extend the length of the queen bed. So, I will check the night stand area for access.
***If there is shavings in the diaphragm did that damage the pump or can I open it up and take the shavings out (if they exist?) and everything will be fine???
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Old 06-15-2020, 04:13 AM   #13
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The inlet screen is a separate "plastic/screen unit" that attaches to the inlet side of the water pump. If your pump is a Flojet pump with the blue locking clips to hole the inlet/outlet hoses, then it's a simple process to add the inlet screen. It's available on Amazon for about $10. https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-017403...%2C183&sr=8-14

If your pump is a ShurFlo, then it's a different style, based on the fittings (probably pressure screw on fittings) for your pump.

With either type, the stainless steel screen in the inlet screen "filters out" anything large enough to damage or get caught in the rubber diaphragm/roller portion of the pump head. There's not a "backflow valve" in the normal sense, rather the diaphragm/rollers act as the backflow valve, so anything that causes a problem with the diaphragm "laying flat" will cause a leak through the pump and into the water tank...

As for "never having used your water pump, the dealership "should have" filled the water tank and tested the system for leaks during the PDI, so it's possible that when they "ran the pump during testing" they picked up some shavings... Then again, your problem may be from an "actual defect in the pump" not related to shavings from the tank...

If the dealership gave you a replacement and don't require you to return the bad pump, you can take it apart, check for foreign matter in the pump head, reassemble it and you'll have an "emergency replacement pump" for future problems..... I store my replacement next to the pump, so it's always ready as a "threat against failure"

Here are photos of the FloJet strainer with the blue clips (linked above) and a type that connects in the hose of the ShurFlo pump.
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Old 06-15-2020, 06:26 AM   #14
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Thanks John, I understand a lot better now. The pump I received is a warranty replacement. They stated they wanted it back because sometimes the manufacturer requests it be returned. So I will put on the new one and hope the problem is cured. I may stop and ask b4 I leave town if they have that inlet strainer in stock. Otherwise I will order from Amazon.

Thank You for all the information!
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Old 06-18-2020, 07:30 AM   #15
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Final update: I replaced the water pump on the RV on Tuesday, After using the system for 24 hours I did not see any leaks and the fresh water tank no longer fills with water (when connected to city water). Replacing it was a pain. There was no access from inside the RV that I could find. I had to go through the cargo bay. I had everything I could do to reach the far-screws but got it done. I would hope in the future, they place the water pump (and other items subject to failure) in a more "accessible" area. The panel that encloses the water pump could also be improved. Having to remove those 3 screws every time you need to winterize seems problematic. Quarter turn knobs would seem like a better option IMO.
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Old 06-18-2020, 08:03 AM   #16
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Final update: I replaced the water pump on the RV on Tuesday, After using the system for 24 hours I did not see any leaks and the fresh water tank no longer fills with water (when connected to city water). Replacing it was a pain. There was no access from inside the RV that I could find. I had to go through the cargo bay. I had everything I could do to reach the far-screws but got it done. I would hope in the future, they place the water pump (and other items subject to failure) in a more "accessible" area. The panel that encloses the water pump could also be improved. Having to remove those 3 screws every time you need to winterize seems problematic. Quarter turn knobs would seem like a better option IMO.
I wouldn't hold my breath waiting on the factory to make it more accessible. I'm guessing it was easy when it was installed on the assembly line before the interior was placed in it.

It's the same in the auto industry. On my truck (and many others) replacing the turbo charger and other engine components require the body be removed from the frame. Look up replacing the heater core in most any vehicle made over the last 20-30 years and you will find out the entire dashboard has to be removed and the air conditioning system discharged and the evaporator coil removed. It was real easy coming the down the assembly line but not so much after that.

The last time I had a heater core replaced was on our Dodge Durango. The heater core cost about $150, the labor was about $1,200.. that was about 15 years ago.
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Old 06-18-2020, 08:10 AM   #17
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Wow. Yes, and I think auto manufacturers do it on purpose so that you have to take it into a dealership for service. My battery on my Silverado, is nearly inaccessible without tearing things apart. I can barely get a battery charger on it without pre-planning how to get the cables in place. As far as Keystone RV goes, I don't know. But I tell you what if it was 10 inches closer to the side, it would make a big difference for changing it. I mean I am rather heavy and I almost got stuck in their trying to reach the screws. LoL
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Old 06-18-2020, 08:21 AM   #18
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Wow. Yes, and I think auto manufacturers do it on purpose so that you have to take it into a dealership for service. My battery on my Silverado, is nearly inaccessible without tearing things apart. I can barely get a battery charger on it without pre-planning how to get the cables in place. As far as Keystone RV goes, I don't know. But I tell you what if it was 10 inches closer to the side, it would make a big difference for changing it. I mean I am rather heavy and I almost got stuck in their trying to reach the screws. LoL
I don't think it's a repair scheme but rather a matter of fitting what's necessary into the space provided by the designers. If the assembly line can shave off 10 seconds on an install they will do it as the engineers take that 10 seconds and extrapolate that over the number of units produced/year and the cost for those man hours. The numbers can be substantial.
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Old 06-18-2020, 11:43 AM   #19
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Sounds like a big pain and yes, the same in the auto industry. My Tahoe needed the rear disk brake backer plates replaced. $14 for the backer plates, but to get to them you had to open the differential, split the axle and pull it out. Remove and replace the backer plate, reinstall the axle, reconnect in the differential, fill with fluid.
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Old 06-25-2020, 12:59 PM   #20
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My hose doesn't fit on the fresh water inlet. The RV shop told me it is a "bad pump," and gave me a replacement. What is happening is when connected to "city water" after a period of several hours (6-10 or so), the fresh water tank fills up with water. If the hoses were swapped the fresh water tank would "or should" fill in a matter of minutes. So, I am getting a water leak out of the fresh water tank vent, after the fresh water tank fills up. I have seen "using google" that other people with slightly older Keystone RV's have had identical problems with the fresh water tank filling up due to failed water pump. Edit: I should have added that I don't know if this is a Keystone only problem or if it is due to a specific brand of water pump.
Have had the exact same problem several times. There is a check valve connected to the pump. That was replaced with an RV valve. Happened agin and I insisted that a brass valve from ACE hardware was installed instead of the RV valve. I think the price of the valve was about $ 10.00. Since that I have had NO problem. It may be worth looking into

Happy camping.
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