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Old 12-19-2019, 02:53 PM   #21
wtxknight
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i’ve reset all the breakers this is third battery in a week i’m able to keep the battery charged only with a battery charger if it drops below 12v overhead lights and fridge don’t work looked for loose connections and battery disconnect haven’t found anything batteries are hook up correctly changed the 40amp fuses. had two weeks of lights dimming before i started buying batteries converter had and is still making high pitched noise i’m thinking just buying the whole converter/fuse panel and just putting in the converter
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Old 12-19-2019, 02:57 PM   #22
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ok i’ll try that thx
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Old 12-19-2019, 03:22 PM   #23
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It would be a disappointment if you spent the time and money replacing the converter to find out that wasn't the issue. Those corroded terminals create a high resistance and can have the same effect as trying to charge thru a small wire a long distance creating a voltage drop.

It's easy for me to spend your money but if it were me I'd replace those resettable fuses. You can get them for $5-$10 depending on where you go, just look at the rating stamped on them as they can be 30 Amp, 20 Amp , or bother amperage. If the studs and nuts are corroded changes are they are corroded inside as well.

Clean and inspect the wire terminals as well. If the wire is showing corrosion or discoloration leading back into the wire's insulation then replace the wire. After thoroughly cleaning all connections, take a voltage reading at the battery. Then try plugging into shore power and read the voltage again. If the beginning voltage is <13 and the second reading is >13 then you're good.
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Old 12-19-2019, 03:57 PM   #24
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When you say resetting fuses are you talking about on the frame leading to the battery or the 11 fuses inside the distribution panel where the converter is...
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Old 12-19-2019, 04:30 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by wtxknight View Post
When you say resetting fuses are you talking about on the frame leading to the battery or the 11 fuses inside the distribution panel where the converter is...
They're mounted on the front bulkhead, just behind the battery and visible in your photos.

I'm not sure that your converter is functioning, but from what I've read, the "factory troubleshooting steps" haven't been followed....

I would start by doing this "first step":
1. disconnect the battery from the trailer. Isolate the battery cable ends to prevent shorting, plug in the trailer to shore power. With a voltmeter, the voltage at the battery terminal ends should be 13.6 VDC. If not, replace the converter assembly.

Troubleshooting steps are on pages 7-8 https://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conte...Manual-web.pdf

Here's a photo of the DC circuit breakers
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Old 12-19-2019, 05:21 PM   #26
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Ok I will try that and let you know...ty
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Old 12-19-2019, 07:33 PM   #27
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Ok I will try that and let you know...ty
My guess is that if you've been through 3 batteries, the voltage output at the converter is either too low (and you're not charging the batteries) or too high and you're burning them up...

That said, in your photo, the battery connected to the trailer is a "starting battery" (probably a "marine dual purpose battery")… If so, and if there is a "CCA" listed in the battery specifications, it's not a "deep cycle battery" but rather a "hybrid dual purpose battery" that is often "pawned off as OK to use in an RV.... They will work, but suffer significant damage from being discharged below about 65-70% and usually won't last much more than 1 season in "demanding RV use"....

If you're buying the batteries, you'd be better served with a dual 6 volt golf cart system ($89 each/$178 for the pair) at Sam's Club. They are slightly more at Costco, about $96 each if I remember correctly.

Anyway, if you completely disconnect the battery from the trailer, all the 12 volt systems should work, lights, refrigerator, furnace, stereo, water heater propane control system, etc... Just don't activate the leveling system, slides or awning as the amperage draw will damage the converter....

If, with the battery disconnected, your 12 volt lights don't work, your converter is probably toast. (that is, if you're sure the reverse polarity fuses are intact)…..
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Old 12-20-2019, 06:52 AM   #28
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I agree with flybouy. Clean all the connection and use dielectric grease when reinstalling

I had a skid steer that would not start every time. I replaced the cable between the battery and the starter and everything was fine. Removed the insulation from the old cable and the stranded wire was corroded, green. You might want to remove some of the cables and look at the crimp connection and see if there is corrosion. You can get new cable end and wire and make new cables for the short ones. I use the crimp cable end but clean them up and solder the end to the wire.
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Old 12-23-2019, 05:05 AM   #29
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MY alpine converter was behind the left wall in the basement
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Old 12-23-2019, 01:18 PM   #30
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That may be ambiguous to someone new at this...
If you're not seeing 13+ volts, check the breaker in the breaker panel - it will be the one marked "CON". Flip it all the way off and then back on - and recheck the voltage at the battery.
...where "all the way off" can be really, really hard!

Twice this year, I have purchased new circuit breakers for people, and when I delivered them, found that the old breaker was just fine and the owner had no idea how hard they had to push them "off" to reset them properly.
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Old 12-23-2019, 09:08 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by wtxknight View Post
i’ve reset all the breakers this is third battery in a week i’m able to keep the battery charged only with a battery charger if it drops below 12v overhead lights and fridge don’t work looked for loose connections and battery disconnect haven’t found anything batteries are hook up correctly changed the 40amp fuses. had two weeks of lights dimming before i started buying batteries converter had and is still making high pitched noise i’m thinking just buying the whole converter/fuse panel and just putting in the converter
Looking at the picture you posted of the fuse panel it doesn't appear that the reverse polarity fuses are installed. Maybe you just had them out when you took the picture?
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Old 12-24-2019, 10:09 AM   #32
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I did have them out, but there on there now and same issues...I have clean and tightened all the connections to the battery as well as the 2 resetting fuses and negative ground on the frame..Not using much 12v stuff and on shore power and last night battery showed12.3 after being charged again. This morning showed 9.7v.. hooked battery charger to it within 1 hour it showing 12.4v, that seems if it was truly 9.7v, it wouldn’t have charged to 12.4v that fast...Battery is still disconnected and on a battery charger now for about 4 hours and charger is reading 12.8v and my voltmeter is showing 12.65v, if I disconnect battery charger it drops to 12.3 v. I have put the leads of my voltmeter on the battery terminal ends and I'm getting 0. 110ac all works fine. Took this battery back to Walmart and they don't load test their batteries and it showed 12.56 on there battery machine after 10minutes and said its a good battery...So I'm thinking converter, short, battery or any or all three combinations...All fuses are checking good...
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Old 12-24-2019, 11:59 AM   #33
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12.4 v is a little light, you may have a bad cell. Some guys at these shops don’t reAlly know how to test batteries. Even our dealer though my daughters battery was fine until I asked them to bring over the electrical guy to test it. He knew it was bad in 10 seconds.

Should be at least 12.6 AFTER you have removed the charger and let it rest for about 30 minutes. Also, a poor quality charger should give a poor battery 13.3 volts, a better charger 14.1 and possibly 14.4.
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Old 12-25-2019, 04:55 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by GHen View Post
12.4 v is a little light, you may have a bad cell. Some guys at these shops don’t reAlly know how to test batteries. Even our dealer though my daughters battery was fine until I asked them to bring over the electrical guy to test it. He knew it was bad in 10 seconds.

Should be at least 12.6 AFTER you have removed the charger and let it rest for about 30 minutes. Also, a poor quality charger should give a poor battery 13.3 volts, a better charger 14.1 and possibly 14.4.
The real test is a hydrometer used on each cell. I keep one in my tool box if I question what my meter or load tester show.
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