Running 12V Electric under the trailer

[Leatherman]

How does everyone protect the 12v wiring that you install as a mod under the trailer?

I want to install an LED strip (or similar) to the rear bumper that I can turn on and off as needed while backing into a space at night.

I have all of the components but I wanted to know how everyone is "encapsulating" their wiring for safety.

Are you using a metal tube of some sort to protect the wiring or the plastic stuff from the local automotive store that wraps around the wires?

[GMcKenzie]

The wire looms won't be enough as they really are not good where exposed. They will get full of crud. I've run wire through old garden hose before. It's better protection and may be enough if the ends are sealed or out of the way. You don't want the hose filling up.

Same would go for metal conduit.

[Leatherman]

The garden hose is a good idea. I never thought of that and its a good in between nothing and the metal conduit.

I could just spray paint it black.

[MarkEHansen]

Look at the wires running under your trailer now? Why do you new wires need to be any better protected? There are wires with heaver casings designed for automotive use. Just use good heavy wire and secure it well so it doesn't rub through against anything.

[LHaven]

When it's a really long run and I'm worried about droop, I just use Schedule 40 (thin-wall) PVC.

[Ken / Claudia]

Leatherman, have you crawled under your trailer and looked.
I did what your asking about 3 years ago.
I do not post photos, but I think you can follow this. I used the bike rack bar laying in the bumper tray. Bolted it up right with a welded T bar across the top about 6 inch's long. I had tractor 55w lights on that. I just changed to 2 LED spot lights that are brighter than the old lights. I can rotate them sideways and up and down. I put a switch and fuse nearby on the tray. Then ran 2 wires all the way to the battery. I get not find a easy ground nearby the bar and did not want to remove paint to get one, so 2 wires the battery. Just so you know what I did there.
The wires run in a slot in the out rigger floor supports, at each I used a plastic wire lume and zip tied each in place. I used gorilla tape in places were the wires needed holding against the floor. I just went and looked before typing this, the tape is still holding. I pulled in mud and rain since I did the job. So far, so good.
Not sure how you want to see the rear lighting, so think about that. If from the truck you need the light angled to the sides not straight back. The switch is so I can turn on the lights anytime I need light behind the trailer, at camp or backing.

[Northofu1]

I used wire loom for my rear view camera wire from hitch to back bumper. I followed gas line and used zip tires. The camera wire is made for external use and very heavy duty. No issues so far.

[KSH]

If they are LED couldn't you just connect the wires to the running lights on the rear of the trailer and add a separate switch back there?

[xranchflunky]

I have used Smurf tubing in the past. This is a flexible conduit usually only for low voltage runs. Nick named Smurf as the original product was blue, but I see it in other colors now. Zipped tied to gas line or anything handy.

[Ken / Claudia]

In my case I use the lights when unhooked from TV as much as when hooked up. But, for strictly backup lights. The taillight connection would work great.

[retiredusps69]

I have run regular extension cord on trailers. Use 16 gauge wire either 2 or 3 wire. I have used it on tt and snowmobile trailers and a few utility trailers. They all are still in use 3 to 4 years. Just make sure it is rated for out door use, 100 ft should run you about $30.00

[BauerAP]

I had a 12” bar for a reverse light on the last trailer. I wired it into the center of the 7-way. This gave me the convince of not having to get out to turn it on but I lost the luxury of using it as a spot light.

As for encapsulating... I just ran it down the frame and zip tied accordingly. Grounded to the frame as well.

[lunge motorsport]

If you look at the exposed wiring in any tow vehicle it is in split wire loom with electrical tape wrapped at the terminations. My TV goes everywhere my coach goes and all the new wiring I add is placed in split loom and all the wiring rework I did (exposed or not) is as well.

[Leatherman]

All good ideas and questions.

I was going to use the connections for the taillights as they are readily available but I wanted to have some power in the rear of the trailer anyway. Using the water tight connectors allows me to install and use other powered devices in the rear beyond just the lights for backing up. Even though the lights I have are LED I wanted more power than what I thought I could pull from tapping into the rear lights.

I think I will use either the PVC or an old hose as suggested.

Thanks again for all of the responses.

[geeman]

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

In my case I use the lights when unhooked from TV as much as when hooked up. But, for strictly backup lights. The taillight connection would work great.

You can operate your running lights without hooking to TV. Just put a spade fuse in the top two connections under the tab on your TV cord. (twist the spades a little). This will turn on all running/tail lights.

[BadmanRick]

Drop one side of your belly pan and run the wires.

[larryflew]

I have run that kind of wiring several times on a half dozen trailers. On an Alpine I used a wire puller (the kind electricians use) to run inside of the coroplast. On a Freedom trailer the under belly was so tight there was no way and I also wanted to run a camera wire so I used half inch PVC conduit. Wired the camera to be on all the time like a rear view mirror instead of just backing up. On LED puddle lights on one trailer I just tied to the frame. Lots of options depending on your situation.

[Hoodlatch]

Originally Posted by KSH

If they are LED couldn't you just connect the wires to the running lights on the rear of the trailer and add a separate switch back there?

This was my solution. I tapped into a taillight wire right at the back bumper, where the loom turns up to enter camper for the tail lights. I flush mounted led lights into the 4” bumper since my HD stinky slinky don’t fit in there,