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Old 08-12-2017, 12:25 AM   #1
cvin
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Question on batteries/frig

The batteries seem to be running very low if i leave the camper for 9-10 days with the frig running on propane

I have 2 of the biggest deep cycle on here from autozone...

Would this be normal? Have a couple of small led lights on my usb ports on too but nothing else

am adding solar but guess i am wondering how much power the frig runs in 75-85 degree weather just sitting and not being opened?

I kind of thought it just started the frig and then the propane took over?

Any input is appreciated
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Old 08-12-2017, 01:09 AM   #2
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Did some general google searches and see the control board in the frig draws some power all the time, so guess without a solar panel the trailer cannot sit 10 days

Next question is if a 100 watt mono panel will be enough or do i need to go bigger?
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Old 08-12-2017, 02:17 AM   #3
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The refer isn't the only draw on the batteries. You have radio memory and display and the propane leak detector.
Any solar is better than none. I'm not familiar with all the technical specs so maybe someone with more information can tell you if 100W will be enough.
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Old 08-12-2017, 05:48 AM   #4
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I did some looking before I picked up a portable Zamp solar unit. 100w on a sunny day will recharge 50% depleted batteries. The minimal amp draw from the parasitic devices Chuckster is referring to will be more than compensated for with the 4 to 5 amp charging current provided by the solar unit. A good solar package will include a multi-stage "controller" that will monitor the current necessary to recharge the batteries and adjust the current flow from the solar panels as needed. Works like the multi-stage converter recharging the batteries when you're plugged into shore power.
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:21 AM   #5
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Thanks guys, i bought a solar suitcase with the controller, it is 100 watts
Will see how it does

Also have a 100 watt panel and am thinking to have it mounted on the front of the trailer over the batteries etc

Probably better to be on the roof but i am loathe to cut or drill into the roof anywhere, if i wasnt would have a big solar set up on here....

I am in sunny az so solar does well here, hopefully the suitcase does good

Will report back on this in a week or 2
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Old 08-13-2017, 01:25 AM   #6
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Wanted to update this

First i am not someone to run the batteries down on anything and kill them, never do this
So this will be solved somehow

Been raining a lot where i am and was only able to run the genny for maybe 3-3.5 hours today to try and get the batteries charged

Never got the meter inside the camper over 3/4 - once genny was shut off

Gen on showed full battery charge

Anyway gone 5-6 hours and get back from work to find the batteries are dead again....

So either one of the batts is bad or i have a big draw
5 hours prior meter in camper showed 3 out of 4 bars

Frig was set to gas only and nothing else at all was on, no lights etc

Doing research found my model of dometic frig has a 12 volt on all the time heat strip in it to help with moisture around the doors...
Older models i guess have a switch to turn this off for when you are boondocking
Newer ones they eliminated the switch- oh joy

Another mod this camper needs

So i either have a bad battery or a major draw somewhere or both
I am loving this camper

Will pull both batteries and take to auto zone for charging and testing tomorrow then will update this
With my luck the frig needs a control board also
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:29 AM   #7
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Will pull both batteries and take to auto zone for charging and testing
You sound like a heads person on how things work. Perhaps while in the parts store look into buying a battery hydrometer for testing. It not only testes the state of the charge, it tells what each cell is doing. To use it you must probe each cell and draw battery fluid into the tester. The great thing is if there's one bad cell it show's up right away on the tester. They are cheap, less than $10 to buy and great to have on hand.
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Old 08-13-2017, 10:23 AM   #8
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You sound like a heads person on how things work. Perhaps while in the parts store look into buying a battery hydrometer for testing. It not only testes the state of the charge, it tells what each cell is doing. To use it you must probe each cell and draw battery fluid into the tester. The great thing is if there's one bad cell it show's up right away on the tester. They are cheap, less than $10 to buy and great to have on hand.
I use one at work all the time. Much more accurate than a load tester.
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Old 08-13-2017, 10:34 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by cvin View Post
The batteries seem to be running very low if i leave the camper for 9-10 days with the frig running on propane



I have 2 of the biggest deep cycle on here from autozone...



Would this be normal? Have a couple of small led lights on my usb ports on too but nothing else



am adding solar but guess i am wondering how much power the frig runs in 75-85 degree weather just sitting and not being opened?



I kind of thought it just started the frig and then the propane took over?



Any input is appreciated


What batteries? I doubt deep cycle.

Other loads?

9 to 10 days is not bad for a constant draw.


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Old 08-13-2017, 11:25 AM   #10
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Will get the hydrometer today

Batteries are big deep cycles from auto zone, not sure which ones
Concern now is one is bad since it dropped back down so quickly yesterday

Genny has been running since 8am, may turn off frig for 5 hours and see how much the batteries drop
Then take them home with me so i can charge/test them better and get a replacement if needed

No matter what this coming week the trailer will get 100watts of solar on it from here on out
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Old 08-13-2017, 11:49 AM   #11
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If you have to replace one I would suggest replacing both of them. It's much easier to monitor them and if one is currently bad, and the other has been trying to "carry the load", there's no telling what kind of deterioration it has that can then hasten the "death" of the new battery you install.
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Old 08-13-2017, 01:23 PM   #12
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If you have a digital volt ohm meter (DVM) you can easily check each battery.
Disconnect them from the trailer and from one another. Measure the voltage of each battery. You'll likely find one is down around 10.5 to 11 volts DC. This represents a shorted cell in that battery. Let us know what you find.
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:27 PM   #13
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Much more accurate than a load tester.
Good point since most stores do only that.
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:33 PM   #14
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This sucks because one battery is just a few months old, i know they should be replaced in pairs but i was hoping not to do that

But looking at auto zone site i think these batteries are marine batteries, so this is not a true deep cycle is it?

If i have to replace - which i am pretty sure i will- interested in a sealed deep cycle unit

Going to do some research now, but anyone running a solar setup that is educated on this stuff please point me in the right direction

This winter i will be boondocking a lot
Hoping i can mount this mono 100 watt panel on the front of the trailer and then use the 100 watt solar suitcase to boost some

I am working up here in the trailer and there is not much point in pulling the batteries/charging/testing etc until i can leave the camper

Meter on the wall of the camper shows 4 out of 4 right now after 5-6 hours on the genny today

Working tomorrow and wont be able to run the genny but maybe an hour in the morning and hopefully a couple of hours after i get home

Tues morn will shut off everything, pull the batts and take them home with me

Will get them fully charged, tested and hydrotested and go from there
Will have the solar suitcase by tuesday and the trailer batteries wont be without that from here on out no matter what i put back in here

I do have a voltmeter and will charge them a while tues morn on the genny and then test after i pull them out

About to look into sealed units
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:56 PM   #15
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This sucks because one battery is just a few months old, i know they should be replaced in pairs but i was hoping not to do that
Don't dwell on it to much. Think of it as experiencing the experience to self wisdom. Move forward and soon all will be well again.
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:17 PM   #16
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I have a 80 watt solar setup and have installed a switch to kill that heat strip on the fridge door frame, 2 6v batteries. I have gone for days without a charge and I am fairly confident the solar is more than enough to keep up with the fridge and other parasitic drains.

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Old 08-14-2017, 06:36 AM   #17
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Thanks bob , that is great info

What battery brand etc are you using?
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Old 08-14-2017, 07:03 AM   #18
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Cvin,
Here's a link I found very informative. Hope this helps shed some light on your problem.
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/arti...ry-basics.html
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Old 08-14-2017, 07:57 AM   #19
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If you do extensive "dry camping" and are considering purchasing two new batteries, you might want to consider if it might be a good time to upgrade to a 6 volt system. There are some things to consider about a 12 volt vs a 6 volt battery bank. They are "fairly close" in power capacity, but the 6 volt batteries are usually much heavier, have substantially thicker plates and will "charge/discharge" much more before damage or failure. So, they may give you a much more reliable 'extended use" time before failure. Most of us who do have a 6 volt system are very satisfied with the upgrade from 12 volts and I haven't heard of anyone who wanted to go back to 12 volt batteries.

Just something to consider since you're essentially at the "new batteries stage".....
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:09 AM   #20
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I was just thinking the same thing that maybe I need to go with 2-6V, I'm going to stop at camping world in a few minutes and see what they have in stock, What the warranties are etc

Which brand batteries are you guys running? And are they sealed?
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