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Old 05-06-2014, 01:35 PM   #1
Bob Landry
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Dexter E-Z Flex

Ordered the kit today, $155 plus shipping, picked up the ball joint service kit from Harbor Freight, and still need to get a bottle jack from Wally World. My brother has jack stand, so I don't have to buy those. Even with buying the stuff to do it, it's hundreds of $$$ cheaper than having the dealer do it..

The trailer came with LCI(Lippert) equalizers with the part name Trail Aire. I looked then up and found them on Lipperts website, but the ones that came on the trailer did not look anything like the ones on their site. I suppose it's either a cheaper version or they are a discontinued item that Keystone got deal on.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:52 PM   #2
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The hardest part, I found, was driving in the new bolts through the outer spring hangers opposite of the equalizer. The bolts were pretty tough to seat all the way through the knurls. Other than that, pretty straight forward and easy. And yes, it is cheaper even when you have to purchase new tools. Save money, great upgrade and new tools!
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherwood View Post
The hardest part, I found, was driving in the new bolts through the outer spring hangers opposite of the equalizer. The bolts were pretty tough to seat all the way through the knurls. Other than that, pretty straight forward and easy. And yes, it is cheaper even when you have to purchase new tools. Save money, great upgrade and new tools!
I agree that was the hardest part. I think the key is to use a 12" c-clamp to slowly work them in. I used an 8" c-clap which worked but it didn't have the extra leverage a 12" would of had.

Jerry
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:08 PM   #4
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Fyi- when I installed the ez flex kit on my last fiver, iI was able to loan the ball joint tool set from Advanced Auto parts store for nothing (free loaner). No strings attached.
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:42 PM   #5
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I agree that was the hardest part. I think the key is to use a 12" c-clamp to slowly work them in. I used an 8" c-clap which worked but it didn't have the extra leverage a 12" would of had.

Jerry
I started to use my c-clamp and it didn't work for me. I had to use either my big framing hammer or my 5 pound hammer. Yes, it was that hard. After they finally seated, I had to give at least a couple of them a few whacks to straighten the hangers up a tad. But I read here that it worked for some people which I wished it worked for me.
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:41 PM   #6
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I installed one side of my triple axle this past weekend. Even a ball joint press won't work easily when the hanger is twisted such that the holes don't line up.

One hanger was perfect, one was a little bit twisted, and one was quite a bit off.

I didn't see any signs of damage, so I suspect that the poor alignment happened at the factory.

I had to unbolt the leaf springs from the axles and move the springs toward or away from the trailer centerline (depending on which way the hanger was twisted) to help line up the bolts so that I could drive them in. This sounds complicated, but it wasn't hard to do once I figured it out.
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:28 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by jtyphoid View Post
I installed one side of my triple axle this past weekend. Even a ball joint press won't work easily when the hanger is twisted such that the holes don't line up.

One hanger was perfect, one was a little bit twisted, and one was quite a bit off.

I didn't see any signs of damage, so I suspect that the poor alignment happened at the factory.

I had to unbolt the leaf springs from the axles and move the springs toward or away from the trailer centerline (depending on which way the hanger was twisted) to help line up the bolts so that I could drive them in. This sounds complicated, but it wasn't hard to do once I figured it out.
I have my kit still sitting in the box just reading up on everyone's experiences.

Won't you change the alignment if you move the springs in relation to the axle to get the bolts to install?

Ron
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:47 AM   #8
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Won't you change the alignment if you move the springs in relation to the axle to get the bolts to install?

Ron
I was initially worried about that, but it wasn't a problem. Once the bolts were aligned and driven in, there was enough play to easily move the springs back to their original position.

I have AL-KO axles, and the spring position is fixed by bosses welded to the axle, so I had no choice but to put the springs right back where they were.

I don't know if other axle brands, like Dexter, are the same.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:54 AM   #9
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The new bushings are going to be the same thickness as the originals, so unless you loosen orremove the U-bolts, and thee's no reason to do that, the alignment should not change.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:11 AM   #10
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I installed my triple axle kit about 2 weeks ago. Took it out for the first trip last weekend, I could not believe the difference!! it now takes bumps way better!
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:21 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jtyphoid View Post
I was initially worried about that, but it wasn't a problem. Once the bolts were aligned and driven in, there was enough play to easily move the springs back to their original position.

I have AL-KO axles, and the spring position is fixed by bosses welded to the axle, so I had no choice but to put the springs right back where they were.

I don't know if other axle brands, like Dexter, are the same.
The problem with triple axles (and even doubles sometimes) is when the trailer is stored all of the side stress is not relieved from the tires when parked. You have to move the trailer straight forward and back a few times to relieve this pressure. Lifting only one side of the trailer may cause the axles to twist slightly and make the holes not line up. (ask me how I know this) Moving straight forward and back or lifting both sides of the trailer will make things line up without moving springs.
The way you did it should have no effect on alignment but storing the trailer with the side stress on the wheels is not good. If possible try to get the wheels as straight as you can. JM2¢, Hank
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:59 AM   #12
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Thanks Hank! That was a great tip.
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Old 05-07-2014, 06:37 PM   #13
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Moving straight forward and back or lifting both sides of the trailer will make things line up without moving springs.
Certainly true and good advise.

In my case, unfortunately, the springs were straight but the hangers weren't. The inside and outside of the hangers were parallel, but the holes of two of the hangers were not exactly across from each other.

This meant that those bolts had to go in just slightly angled. Without that angle, the shoulder of the bolt was catching the edge of the opposite hole. If I'd had a helper to guide the opposite side through the hole as I was driving the bolt in, I don't think that I would have needed to unbolt the springs from the axles.
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:07 PM   #14
fred1609
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I had ours replaced after an inspection and was shocked at the excessive wear on the nylon/plastic bushing.......The new ones are beefier and of course can be lubed. Should be a warning for folks have an inspection done.
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:53 AM   #15
rjsurfer
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Originally Posted by jtyphoid View Post
I was initially worried about that, but it wasn't a problem. Once the bolts were aligned and driven in, there was enough play to easily move the springs back to their original position.

I have AL-KO axles, and the spring position is fixed by bosses welded to the axle, so I had no choice but to put the springs right back where they were.

I don't know if other axle brands, like Dexter, are the same.
Thanks for the reply, makes more sense now.

Ron W.
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:33 PM   #16
Bob Landry
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I received the kit today and was looking at the wet bolt/hanger assemblies that come pre-assembled. The wet bolt is pressed in so that the grease hole is 90 degrees to the hanger, but when I hold it up to the position that I thing it's actually going to be hanging, the grease hole is between 3-4 o'clock instead of on the horizontal axis that they should be on. I'm wondering how critical this is and if I should remove the wet bolts and reinstall them in a better position. I put in a call to Dexter, but it was too late in the day and I probably won't hear from them until tomorrow.
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Old 05-14-2014, 03:26 PM   #17
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wet bolts

Hey Bob, after reading about "my wet bolts won't take grease" I counter bored & relieved the grease channel. Also I bench tested before install & found 2 bad zerks, Have fun---Lou---
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Old 05-14-2014, 03:41 PM   #18
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Hey Bob, after reading about "my wet bolts won't take grease" I counter bored & relieved the grease channel. Also I bench tested before install & found 2 bad zerks, Have fun---Lou---
Yes, I'm going to check each zerk before I take anything apart.
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Old 05-14-2014, 03:43 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
I received the kit today and was looking at the wet bolt/hanger assemblies that come pre-assembled. The wet bolt is pressed in so that the grease hole is 90 degrees to the hanger, but when I hold it up to the position that I thing it's actually going to be hanging, the grease hole is between 3-4 o'clock instead of on the horizontal axis that they should be on. I'm wondering how critical this is and if I should remove the wet bolts and reinstall them in a better position. I put in a call to Dexter, but it was too late in the day and I probably won't hear from them until tomorrow.
Bob, Check the directions ... If I remember correctly, the only one that is critical is the the one through the spring eye. Because of the way the spring eye is shaped the bushing may egg shape slightly and block the grease port if it is not positioned correctly. On the others the load seems fairly equal all around. Mine have been on a few years and no problem greasing. JM2¢, Hank
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Old 05-14-2014, 04:51 PM   #20
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I believe I read the grease hole should be installed at about the 3 or 9 o'clock position, so the loading on the bolt does not block the hole and make it next to near impossible to grease the bolt/bushing assembly. I would think this applies to all the bolts, as they all bear the weight of the trailer. I also read, that some folks have chased the hole in the bushing with a reamer the same size as the bolt after installation, just in case the bushing becomes distorted during installation.
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