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Old 11-16-2012, 06:57 PM   #1
SteveC7010
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2012 F250 Super Duty 5th Mods & Upgrades

We picked up our new tow vehicle last week. The Dodge Dually was rapidly becoming a bottomless money pit with stuff breaking faster than we could afford to fix them. The new one is a 2012 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT SuperCab with the 6.7 diesel. We picked this one because of installed options and payload/towing capacity.


The first upgrade is the addition of rails for the fifth wheel hitch. I picked a Reese mounting system that requires no drilling of the frame. It was a bit more pricey, but the savings in labor time (or cost if I subbed it out) are tremendous.

Here are the new rails and hardware:


Here is the driver's side frame to rail bracket and hardware:


Here's the bracket on the frame ready for me to drill the holes through the floor of the truck bed:


More in next post......
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:28 PM   #2
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Here's a closer view of one end of the frame bracket so you can see the relationship between the bracket and the bed of the truck.


Now we measure and drill for the rails in 10 places:


The whole plan for installing the rails and brackets is to assemble everything loosely as the holes are drilled so that nothing gets out of alignment. Once all the hardware is in place, we slowly begin to tighten up the bolts a little bit at a time in a systematic pattern. The end result is that everything is pulled into proper place without any distortion, gaps, or undue stress on the metal.

And the finished product with all hardware tightened up. (The fifth wheel platform is not in the pic as it was a lot easier to lift and fit things without the extra bulk and weight.)


Some comments for those interested in doing this yourself:

First, make sure you have all the tools, etc. on hand before starting. I forgot a couple of things and had to make several trips to get them. That meant I had to set all the tools, etc. aside and drive the truck out of the garage to the storage unit and back. I also did not have the 9/16" drill bit needed so I was stuck with enlarging 3/8" holes with a tapered grinding wheel. That really slowed me down and I should have known better.

One other tool I did not have that I found myself wishing I had for this job is a round tapered alignment bar similar to what steel workers use only smaller. It would have made assembling and aligning the rails much easier.

Second, I have a Makita impact wrench with long extension and impact sockets. It made the gradual, systematic tightening of all the bolts much easier and faster. It also made it super easy to really tighten down everything. If I had to do that with a hand wrench or rachet, I don't know if I would had the strength to complete things given the contorted reaches to some of the bolt heads. If you can get your hands on one, you won't regret it.

Reese gives you a little spacer for each rail bolt. The spacer fits in the grooves of the truck bed floor and allows full tightness of each bolt from the bracket up to the rail. The spacers need to be placed fairly exactly or they'll prevent full tightening and deform the sheet metal. I got out a roll of masking tape and made little handles for each spacer so that I could move them around as needed during the tightening process. It worked really well.

It's late fall and the outside temps are in the mid-30's during the day here. While I don't have a heated garage of my own, I can use one of the bays at my volunteer ambulance service. This is definitely a project that you want to do out of the weather. It took me about 4.5 hours to complete the job so having a place where you can comfortably work matters.

For the average shade tree mechanic, this isn't a particularly challenging project, but with the need to lay on your back on the floor working with your arms extended upwards for periods of time can be exhausting, especially for someone over 60. I rate the difficulty as a 6 out of 10 for myself.

There's lots more to come and I'll add to this thread as I go along. Near future projects for the truck are:
* Remove factory AM/FM/CD and replace with aftermarket HD radio and then move the GPS and satellite radio receiver off the top of the dashboard.

* My UHF GMRS two-way radio needs to be installed.
* Emergency lighting for EMS response needs to be installed.
* DW is getting me a new cross bed tool box for Christmas. It's the low profile kind that won't interfere with the fifth wheel trailer in tight turns. That will be a bolt-in item so it is on the "to do" list.

More in next post...
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
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Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:40 PM   #3
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As an EMT, I respond for ambulance calls quite a bit. The squad authorizes us to have two-way mobile radios so I have a 25 watt VHF radio to be installed in the truck. This one gets used pretty regularly so it has to be well positioned so I can read the display and reach the controls under any conditions.

This truck has the full center console with four front cup holders. They are removable and there is a lot of space under them and in the bottom of the main storage area.


I removed the front pair of cupholders and mounted the remote head for the radio to the other pair.


I still have to install the rest of the radio and run the cabling for it, but I'll do that when I do some other electrical work. I'm still trying to figure out a good place to hang the microphone on the dashboard.

When time and money permit, I am going to add a remote camera on the back of the truck and possibly a second one high on the back of the cab.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:44 PM   #4
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And just for completeness, here's a rear view of the truck:
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Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:53 PM   #5
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Steve -

Nice. VERY nice!

(Green with envy)
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:32 PM   #6
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That's a beautiful truck! I didn't realize that it was normal for fifth wheel hitches to need holes drilled in the frame. I could never bring myself to drill holes in the frame. That just doesn't seem like a good idea.

That being a super cab, does it have the rear doors that open backwards? I've read random posts complaining about squeaking. In twenty or so years, that's the type of setup I'd like for retirement travel.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:28 PM   #7
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He££ yeah!!!! That's the truck I plan on getting next fall! Nice choice!
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:59 PM   #8
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Added SEIC High Idle

For those with Ford diesels, Ford now builds in the capability to add a high rpm idle to your vehicle. If your truck has the upfitter switches, it's a bit easier, but not a difficult job without them.

SEIC means Stationary Elevated Idle Control. The capability is built in to your PCM. Lots of commercial applications such as generators, compressors, PTO's, etc. for these trucks require high idle. All it takes is the addition of a resistor across two wires and a switched low amperage 12vdc source to turn the high idle on and off.

Why SEIC? Well, the short version is that it prevents all kinds of problems during extended idle periods. Ford recommends 1200 RPM as optimal. It keeps up airflow and temps for the DEF injectors on the 6.7's. And it is ideal for cooling down your rig after towing. It also prevents "wet stack" in most any diesel.

I ended up short of time to take some pictures this morning, but I did get the high idle mod done. Here is a link to an extensive thread about adding the SEIC mod to your truck which explains everything much better than I can. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...ml#post9494561

If you think you might want to do this mod, I have a stock of 20K resistors left over. 20K is the value that will give you a 1200 RPM high idle. Let me know via PM and I can mail you the resistor.

I also have a single page instruction sheet on the mod. Drop me a PM and I'll send you several pages of PDF info and the instruction sheet.

If you don't have the upfitter switches, let me know and I can give you the info on a convenient 5 amp run/accessory source right next to the wiring for the SEIC.

Living up here in the northeast, we tend to want to warm up our cars and trucks before driving them in cold weather. The high idle helps a diesel warm up faster and safer.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:22 AM   #9
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I built my own and used a potentiometer so that I can adjust the idle speed. I'll see if I can find some pics of the install if you want them.

BTW, Looks like you will be getting some snow soon.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebel View Post
I built my own and used a potentiometer so that I can adjust the idle speed. I'll see if I can find some pics of the install if you want them.

BTW, Looks like you will be getting some snow soon.
Over on the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forum, there's a detailed thread with lots of pics of both types, fixed resistor and potentiometer. I opted for the fixed resistor for now, but the pot is a great addition.

We got a couple of inches over night, but it turned to rain around daybreak. It's all gone now.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:52 AM   #11
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Nice work, I wish that it would work with an '03
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:13 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Htfiremedic View Post
Nice work, I wish that it would work with an '03
There may be hope for you. Ford has long offered PTO capability on both the E and F series chassis. There may be a PTO high idle available for your '03. Our '06 E-450 ambulance has it. Check over on the FTE forum. There are lots of owners of trucks of that age that have done all kinds of neat mods and upgrades to their trucks. If there isn't built in one that you just have to hook up, I bet those guys and girls over there can point you at an easy-to-install unit of some kind.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:01 PM   #13
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Now for some eye candy...

No tow vehicle is complete without some customized touches just for appearence's sake.
I think the tailgate of the Super Duty looks a little plain with just a Ford oval and the words SUPER DUTY
stamped in the metal.


I found an outfit that makes stick-on lettering that fills those stamped letters with whatever color
one might want. They offer them for the tailgate, the front grille, and the dashboard. The 4x4 emblems
on the sides of my truck are gold so I ordered letters in gold reflective for the tailgate. The reflective
aspect gives an extra bit of safety to the rear at night, too.

I took the tailgate off so I could work in a warm room and then let the whole thing dry overnight
as the letters are applied using a wet method. Here's what it looks like on the bench:


The company I bought these from is called Stang Customs. They sell through Ebay for the most part
and their prices are darned reasonable. I got two complete sets of letters for this job for $16.47.
They were in the mailbox in just a week's time. Search for a seller named fuzedmods there.
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:56 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Htfiremedic View Post
Nice work, I wish that it would work with an '03
'03 7.3 no. Ford made an auxilary idle controller (AIC) that could be used to high idle the 7.3 and maybe the 6.0 (I have only owned the 7.3 and 6.7). Most of the aftermarket custom performance chips can also have a high idle setting added to them.

'03 6.0 yes. The wiring is different but it can be done. Search one of the Ford diesel specific forums and you should find plenty of write ups.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:39 PM   #15
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Steve,
REAL nice truck! I have the same truck with the Triton V10 two years older. I'm looking at purchasing (maybe) the Cougar 330RBK. Just curious, how do my numbers compare to yours? and how does your F250 handle your 326? I think the 330 might put me up there in payload, but I'm still in the process of figuring that out .

TRUCK: 2010 Ford F250 XLT SRW super cab SB with Triton V10 (with camper pkg)
-type E tires with single 3640 lb. load capacity
-combined cargo weight max: 2573 lbs. (sticker inside driver door)
-GVW: 6223 lbs.
-GVWR: 9400 lbs.
-FGAWR: 5200 lbs.
-RGAWR: 6100 lbs.
-Max loaded trailer weight: 14400 lbs. (according to Ford trailer towing guide)
-GCWR: 21000 lbs.

TRAILER: 2013 Cougar 330RBK
-Hitch (pin) weight: 1865 lbs.
-Dry weight: approx. 10000 lbs.
-GVW: 12265 lbs. (according to dealer documentation)
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:55 PM   #16
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Can tell how it tows yet. We bought it after we sent the trailer to storage for the winter.

The SD has the 10K GVWR package and is rated to tow 16K.

The 326MKS is 9920 dry, 2045 capacity and a pin weight of 1565.
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