Air or antifreeze to winterize?

[SummitPond]

OK - probably a silly question.

I use antifreeze, but if I wanted to blow the lines out instead, where do you inject the air?

Is there an adapter for the city water line to connect to the compressor line, do you use the antifreeze suction line on the FW pump, or is there something else?

Thanks.

[flybouy]

There are adapters that have male hose thread on one end and quick disconnect male air fitting on the other. Connect to city water connection and make certain you regulate the air supply down to about 30 psi.

[skids]

I would do the black tank flush inlet as well.

[nellie1289]

I’ve only air winterized. If there is no water in the lines how can they freeze? Maybe a little residual water in the water pump? I’ve only done air for six years no issues.

[SummitPond]

Originally Posted by flybouy

There are adapters that have male hose thread on one end and quick disconnect male air fitting on the other. Connect to city water connection and make certain you regulate the air supply down to about 30 psi.

Marshall, thank you.

Where do you get something like this adapter? We have one very small mom & pop RV store near us, and I don't recall seeing anything like that - but then again, I wasn't looking for it.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by SummitPond

Marshall, thank you.

Where do you get something like this adapter? We have one very small mom & pop RV store near us, and I don't recall seeing anything like that - but then again, I wasn't looking for it.

Here's one on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Mot...s%2C192&sr=8-3

Some Walmarts that have RV supplies carry them in the store as well.

[JRTJH]

Here's one of many available. Most camping stores, even some in campgrounds have them, Amazon is a "common go to" place for them: https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Con...3068477&sr=8-1

[JohnnyP]

Went back and looked for access to the pump located under stove. No screws in panel. There is a carbon monoxide detector on panel under stove so I removed it to confirm that the water pump is behind it. Can look through small hole that wires come out of and verified it’s in there. All panels under sink are nailed from factory the panel under the fridge has the heater and a wall that comes all the way down to floor. Thinking to be safe I need to either remove oven, outside kitchen or cut the panel to gain access. Not sure why they placed pump in this location. Talked to previous owner and he would always dump 6 gallons in fresh water tank and fill lines that way. Not worried about price of 6 gallons but the residue left in tank is not best when 1st using for season.

[Keystone half ton]

How much air pressure is ok to use on the water lines

[flybouy]

Pressure is pressure, but you should hold it to about 35 psi in my opinion. More air pressure is not necessary.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by nellie1289;4169[LIST=1

[/LIST]15]I’ve only air winterized. If there is no water in the lines how can they freeze? Maybe a little residual water in the water pump? I’ve only done air for six years no issues.

You will have water in your hot water heater tank so drain it. You will have water in your P traps under your sinks. I like to put some antifreeze into drains where there are P traps knowing that blowing out my water lines won't get the water out of the drains. We do get hard freezes once in awhile in the TX Hill Country and anticipate them by filling P traps after blowing out the water lines.

[JDDilly]

I have only used air for at least 12 years. The best is no antifreeze taste the next year!

[Black Bark]

Question on the black tank flush and blowing it out. Do you need to open the drain first or can you put 30psi or less thru without opening?

[flybouy]

You should not have to open the black tank drain. The tank vent will allow the air from that rinser line to escape without issue.

[skids]

Originally Posted by JohnnyP

Not worried about price of 6 gallons but the residue left in tank is not best when 1st using for season.

Start of season, sterilize.

1.Open the low point drain and drain it,
2. then run water into the FW inlet, let it drain,
3. fill it up with added Clorox to sanitize and run through lines and let sit for 12 hrs.
4. I like to also rinse out the HW tank then and add some of that chlorine water for at least 4 hrs.
5. Finally, repeat with fresh water to rinse out the chlorine water. Don't forget the other low points.

That pink stuff will not harm you. The smell of chlorine will not harm you either.

[NMRandy]

If you do the anti-freeze only method, make sure to backflush the city water connection back to the outside connector. The connector is a check valve that usually has a pin in the center, that you can depress to open the valve. I get the pump started drawing anti-freeze, then shut the pump off, bleed off the system pressure, then I push the center pin on the outside connector to open the valve, and then have DW turn the pump on and let the flow go until I see the pink stuff, (usually a cup or two clear water comes out). I had to replace the city water connector because it froze and broke. The RV tech explained to me how to do this. That doesn't get the black tank flush, need air for that.

[rhaney]

Originally Posted by JohnnyP

What is best? I cannot even get to water pump without removing the stove or possibly the outside kitchen. 2010 cougar 26bhs. Am I missing an easy access to pump or should I just use air. 1st timer asking for help.

AIR! Easy and ready to go if you decide to do an out of season trip. Nothing like RV'ing in West Kansas in November and December.

[cenders]

I'm in Calgary, Canada (current temp is 14F) and I've only ever used Air to clear my lines. I do remove my water pump and manually drain it of water however.

I do like the fact that if the weather warmed up we could jump in and go... as using air is typically as easy as using antifreeze, and it is free.

I made a simple adapter to connect my air line to the city connection (compared to a 'push' style you can find for sale).

[ChadZ]

Sorry to hear you’re having issues with winterization. It is shameful that they can’t build these RVs with an easier way to winterize them . We bought a brand new Keystone 3121 RL Fifth Wheel and had many problems with winterization as well . That being said we recommend RV antifreeze . We know people that use both methods. They both work . I think it’s a matter of preference but we feel RV antifreeze is a safer way to go than air. One way to winterize your camper with antifreeze might be to get the antifreeze into your holding tank. That way you don’t have to dig for the demand pump. Wishing you the best of luck.

[Hugo-H]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

If you blow the air out of the lines first, antifreeze isn’t even really necessary. We use the antifreeze on the odd chance some water remains in the system. Any potential dilution is negligible at best.

I am not doing it to save money, it’s just a method I have used for decades on my RV’s and at our seasonal camp deep in the North Woods. In aggregate, it costs me no more than a few extra minutes on the winterizing end, but saves me at least an hour and tons of water on the de-winterizing end. We are on well water and we have no eco-friendly way to drain and flush and dispose of used antifreeze “non-toxic” or not. As others have done, I simply shared a method I use and that has worked for me since the 1990’s without a single damaged plumbing line, fitting or appliance.

May I ask how you blow out the lines with air? (I have a Keystone 31 ft, 2016)