Winterizing - Bypass Valve Question

[Wally15]

This is my 1st "winterizing". In S GA we usually only get 10-12 days per year below freezing. Last winter was a Polar Vortex exception (into the teens), and this winter is shaping up to be a global warming repeat.
My question: if I drain the HW heater and low point valves, blow out the lines with 30 PSI compressed air, pink stuff the p traps and toilet, et al, do I need to even bother with closing the HW bypass valve? It's a real pain to get to.
I was told the purpose of the bypass was to prevent the antifreeze from getting into the hw heater, but if no antifreeze is getting into the water lines, why bother?
Am I missing something? Per DW, I have a keen sense of the obvious.

[Javi]

I don't close mine unless I use antifreeze in the line. I drain all lines, drain the water heater and FW tank and low point drains. Re-install the WH plug/anode and LP drain caps, hook up the air compressor and blow out all the lines including the sinks, toilet, black tank rinse, outside shower, washer connections, and the shower head. Afterward I remove the low point drain caps and the WH plug/anode, and leave them off/out for a a day or so just to let any residual water drain.

We camp often during the winter so it would really be a pain to use antifreeze every time. Generally I drain and blow out the lines before we leave the campsite headed for home.