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Old 05-20-2014, 12:14 PM   #1
zuley
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Jacking up a TT to grease or change a tire

I'm thinking I should be greasing the bearings on our 23RB. New last spring. I've put aprox. 1400 km on it dragging it up and down the road. My question is, how do you raise one up? Because of the wheel centre caps the wheels have to be removed to get at the grease nipples on the axles. I'm hoping to be able to use a dolly jack under each axle and raise one wheel at a time. I guess my next question is, what do people do when they have a flat on the side of the road?
Thanks,
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:23 PM   #2
BirchyBoy
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I just ordered a Trailer Aid ramp for mine. It could be used for greasing the bearings as well I think.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:40 PM   #3
Ken / Claudia
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Here is what I do, others may do different. 1st loosen lugs nuts, do not remove them, from the wheels on the side your working on. I have a extra bottle jack and lots of 2x6s. I jack up near the wheels at the frame. When both are off ground. I place jack stands under frame both sides of wheels in case jack fails. Remove lug nuts and wheels check the brakes and adjust, greese the fittings.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:57 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. The Trailer Aid has me intrigued. Camping World has them on sale presently for 55 dollars. Don't know what they are worth north of the boarder but gives me something to consider. I got thinking watching a Youtube vid of the thing being used and demonstrated. Why would a normal auto ramp not work? They both function under the same principle.
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:11 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by zuley View Post
Thanks guys. The Trailer Aid has me intrigued. Camping World has them on sale presently for 55 dollars. Don't know what they are worth north of the boarder but gives me something to consider. I got thinking watching a Youtube vid of the thing being used and demonstrated. Why would a normal auto ramp not work? They both function under the same principle.
Maybe it would. The Trailer Aid is pretty stout underneath and may be a bit more narrow than a traditional ramp. The tire also sits in a recess, so it might help keep it from rolling off a little better.
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:45 PM   #6
ROLIN JOSEPH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuley View Post
Because of the wheel centre caps the wheels have to be removed to get at the grease nipples on the axles.
Zueley,
Actually, the wheels do not have to be removed to get to the grease nipples, because the cap buttons pop off with a flathead.

You do however, as others have pointed out, have to raise the wheels off of the ground to spin the wheel as you grease, and you might as well do a lug nut torque check while its off the ground.
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Old 05-20-2014, 06:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLIN JOSEPH View Post
Zueley,
Actually, the wheels do not have to be removed to get to the grease nipples, because the cap buttons pop off with a flathead.

You do however, as others have pointed out, have to raise the wheels off of the ground to spin the wheel as you grease, and you might as well do a lug nut torque check while its off the ground.
That's good to know. Except for the fact that I believe that mine are a solid cap with no top on them. I will know for sure tomorrow when I get my trailer out of storage. I sure hope it is like that.

Travis
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:39 PM   #8
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I used my TrailerAid to grease my bearings a few weeks ago. I bought it to change flat tires while traveling. Works great for jobs like this too. I pulled the wheels off just to get to the grease zerk easier. I have a air compressor and impact gun so it is easy. I broke the plastic center cap first thing. Super glue fixed it. I had about 3,000 miles on my rig and just greased the bearings for my piece of mind. I personally think they should be good for 5 years, or at least 15,000 miles. I don't understand why folks want to re-pack their bearings every year. It's not a boat trailer that gets submerged in salt water every weekend.
How do you check the lug nut torque with the wheel off the ground?
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:48 PM   #9
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I used my Trailer Aid today to remove a tire. I was checking my tire pressures before leaving tomorrow and found a screw in the tread of one. I had just packed the back storage last night with my Trailer Aid, spare BAL scissor jack (found new/unboxed at a yard sale this weekend for $10), tools, etc. Had to unpack it all but the Trailer Aid did it's job like a champ.

Took the tire to the shop and the screw hadn't gone any further than into the tread; no patching required.
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Old 05-21-2014, 04:35 PM   #10
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How do you check the lug nut torque with the wheel off the ground?
The first, of three parts, of a complete lug nut torque should be with the wheel off the ground. (RTM)
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Old 05-23-2014, 03:11 PM   #11
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I stopped at Hughes RV in Orangeville today and ordered for my self one of the Tailer Aids. I watched the Youtube vids and was certainly sold on the concept of how it worked.
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:02 PM   #12
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Thanks guys. The Trailer Aid has me intrigued. Camping World has them on sale presently for 55 dollars. Don't know what they are worth north of the boarder.
I just ordered one from Amazon.ca at CND$ 45.41 (+ shipping)
Since it's shipped from Concord, ON, there's no duty or brokerage fees

http://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_nos...%3Atrailer+aid
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:49 PM   #13
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Amazon offers one with 5.5" raise off the ground and another with 4.5" raise. Do any of know if the one for 10 bucks less is enough raise?
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Old 05-24-2014, 04:37 AM   #14
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Amazon offers one with 5.5" raise off the ground and another with 4.5" raise. Do any of know if the one for 10 bucks less is enough raise?

It depends on your specific RV "configuration". On mine, the 4.5" nor the 5.5" will raise the "adjacent tire" off the ground. My Cougar comes standard with the Mor-ryde equalizers and the extra travel they allow in the suspension is too much for the "adjacent tire" to be lifted. On our Springdale, we had no problems with the 5.5" model. Additionally, any axle spacing (wide spread axle configuration) will also affect how much height is required to life the adjacent axle/tire off the ground.

I'd suggest you use 2x8" boards to back your RV onto (raise the tire the advertised height) and see if either one will work for your specific application. Mine won't work......
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:05 AM   #15
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Why not simply use the same 2x6 boards used for leveling?

I never understood why people pay $$$ for plastic crap that is unnecessary.

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Old 05-25-2014, 08:18 AM   #16
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Grease job

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Originally Posted by gearhead View Post
I used my TrailerAid to grease my bearings a few weeks ago. I bought it to change flat tires while traveling. Works great for jobs like this too. I pulled the wheels off just to get to the grease zerk easier. I have a air compressor and impact gun so it is easy. I broke the plastic center cap first thing. Super glue fixed it. I had about 3,000 miles on my rig and just greased the bearings for my piece of mind. I personally think they should be good for 5 years, or at least 15,000 miles. I don't understand why folks want to re-pack their bearings every year. It's not a boat trailer that gets submerged in salt water every weekend.
How do you check the lug nut torque with the wheel off the ground?
I actually think the every year routine is as much for the inspection of what's going on vs the bearings actually needing to be serviced. I would note though that the manufactures frown upon using the air delivery grease guns.
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:46 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
It depends on your specific RV "configuration". On mine, the 4.5" nor the 5.5" will raise the "adjacent tire" off the ground. My Cougar comes standard with the Mor-ryde equalizers and the extra travel they allow in the suspension is too much for the "adjacent tire" to be lifted. On our Springdale, we had no problems with the 5.5" model. Additionally, any axle spacing (wide spread axle configuration) will also affect how much height is required to life the adjacent axle/tire off the ground.

I'd suggest you use 2x8" boards to back your RV onto (raise the tire the advertised height) and see if either one will work for your specific application. Mine won't work......
Makes sense. As SAD says, if it works with a 2x8, then why buy the plastic stuff? Thanks.
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:16 PM   #18
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Weight of the plastic vs. three 2x8's stacked to create a ramp was my issue.
And...be careful if you stick your finger in the hub cap to wipe the grease out. That edge that the rubber cap fits in is very sharp. As in blood on the driveway sharp. I was checking hubs for grease on my new Go Devil boat trailer this morning.
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:25 PM   #19
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I actually think the every year routine is as much for the inspection of what's going on vs the bearings actually needing to be serviced. I would note though that the manufactures frown upon using the air delivery grease guns.
I could have been more clear about that. I just used the air compressor for the impact. I don't own a air grease gun.
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Old 05-27-2014, 12:52 PM   #20
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Grease job

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I could have been more clear about that. I just used the air compressor for the impact. I don't own a air grease gun.
Same here with the bloody finger.....
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