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03-15-2014, 05:32 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: alabama
Posts: 272
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our home is a building
we built a steel tube building the bay is 25x70 the door is 14 tall and 12 wide we built a section off of the main bay it is 15x70. so our building is 40x70 overall. I wished it was longer given our rig is 65 ft long connected. the 15x 70 section has living quarters with a living room/ kitchen a bathroom/ laundry room a bedroom for my dad and a storage area. the bay contains the 40' toy hauler which I live in. we hook up the sewer, water, electrical, and I designed a propane system to hook up to a 500 gallon tank. I even have a port to vent the generator exhaust out when I want to run it.
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1999 fl70 freightliner. 2011 3912 lev raptor. 2008 Vulcan 900lt. 2005 leighman trike c50 suzuiki boulevard
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03-15-2014, 05:34 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 287
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Now THAT'S a serious tow vehicle...!!!
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03-15-2014, 05:45 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: alabama
Posts: 272
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yep
I can stop mine without trailer brakes yep the plug wasn't in. its not if you can pull it its can you stop it and will wind blow you off the road.
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1999 fl70 freightliner. 2011 3912 lev raptor. 2008 Vulcan 900lt. 2005 leighman trike c50 suzuiki boulevard
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03-15-2014, 06:29 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Lunenburg, MA
Posts: 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT22
Hello FTwingriders,
Your barn looks awesome! What is that white stuff on the ground?
In Florida, we don't see that stuff.
On that note, question to address ... being in Florida what is the priority on enclosing the pole barn I'm going to build ( for the record as well, I 'm contracting out the shell of the barn)? In our horse barn we don't have a rodent problem....don't have to winterize the coach .... so is it really a priority to enclose it? I'm hoping to put the majority of my budget here to the shell itself ...then finish it off as needed.
Thoughts on enclosing a pole barn in FL? Here is an example of one I found in this forum that looks appealing and very functional.
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Thanks for the complement!!! I was actually just thinking of a carport shelter after we bought the new camper. It quickly evolved into a fully functional barn/workshop. Somehow my wife fell for the ol' "You don't want me underfoot after I retire, do you? I need a place to putter"... LOL!! Once I threw in the porch she was sold. She can't resist a porch to decorate!!
Up here in Mass, the snow and cold are a real bummer. As I wanted a fully heated timber frame shop, my builder and I decided a full foundation was the way to go. As to your questions, I'm sure a fully enclosed shelter would be more a luxury rather than necessity. That example would certainly help keep the Florida sun off, and look good doing it!!
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03-16-2014, 09:16 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 352
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Here's my shed that came with the house. The original rear shed 24x36 was about 6 years old. Then the front shed 24x30 was added by the previous owner. A local pole barn company.
__________________
2010 Kestone Laredo 291TG
2006 Dodge Megacab CTD
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03-16-2014, 09:21 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 352
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Not realizing that my camper was 5' too long on the front shed, I had the company come out and add 13' to maxamize local building codes. Re-used the garage door and window.
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2010 Kestone Laredo 291TG
2006 Dodge Megacab CTD
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03-16-2014, 09:23 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 352
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Almost done. Just need to cut the window in.
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2010 Kestone Laredo 291TG
2006 Dodge Megacab CTD
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03-16-2014, 09:35 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 352
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Heres a pic from Google Earth, all done and a 1.5 years later.
Hindsight 20/20.
My doors are 12'Hx18'W. I should of replaced the old rear door with the front newer door. Sold the old door. Made the new front 13' high opening for a bigger camper. I only have 14' clearence from rafters and a door guy said I could easily got 13' out of it.
The newer front shed has gravel, so concrete will be in the future.
__________________
2010 Kestone Laredo 291TG
2006 Dodge Megacab CTD
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03-17-2014, 10:04 AM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 12
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Hello Slimshadie,
The addition looks good. I'm building to protect our featherlite horse trailer and my functional 26' TT now, but planning enough space and clearance to house whatever the future holds for us.
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03-17-2014, 05:40 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: alabama
Posts: 272
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heres a vid i did about my propans hook up
if you have a place that builds hoses they should be able to make you a propane hose and have the quick hook ups. somebody asked about CO emissions from the furnace in a enclosed building. I have a CO detector outside the rv 5 feet from the vent and it has never went off(except when I fired up the generator. of course that is pre. exhaust port, )
here ya go
http://youtu.be/ldxpxunRC1U
__________________
1999 fl70 freightliner. 2011 3912 lev raptor. 2008 Vulcan 900lt. 2005 leighman trike c50 suzuiki boulevard
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03-22-2014, 06:18 AM
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#31
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Durand,Mi
Posts: 28
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Here's my barn went 16' high with 14' roll up door. Make sure you go high enough my old barn was 12' new 5th wheel 12' high!!
Old Barn 2 hrs to take off wheels put on rims take out light bulbs to just fit!!
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03-23-2014, 10:38 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 487
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What type of airplane?
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Pilot for fun, Computer geek for a living, and happy 5er owner who wants more time to go play in the camper!
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03-24-2014, 12:15 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NE. Iowa
Posts: 230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAD
I have a all steel, red-iron freespan 40x50.... Has two 14'H by 12'W doors and the RV can drive straight through... Also a 16'H by 8'W "2 car" garage door on one end.... Has a 50' long porch along one side so I have a great spot for patio furniture and my smoker.
Pic just about the time construction/assembly was done:
I would recommend playing around with any one of the many "planner" apps available on the internet... Used: http://www.cbstructuresinc.com/resou...ut-planner.php
This had plenty of icons to represent the junk i'd put inside... And I could size them... Drag around and arrange however I'd like. Also the ability to save them and review them later.... Could also export to JPG file to save to my own computer. I did not buy my building from these guys either.
Bought my building locally and subbed out my own building assembly and concrete and electrical "prep" (i.e. meter pole and panel in shop - I did all the wiring inside the shop myself)
Here's my layout:
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VERY NICE. What did you end up with for an R value on that insulation. I design a lot of pre engineered buildings for my firm, but we typically fill the purlin/girt cavities with insulation, we haven't done that method for quite some time.............mainly because it will not pass IEC "International Energy Code", but then neither does filling the cavity.........I'm starting to rant, better cut it off.
__________________
Mike
2017 Ram 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 / 5.7 Hemi / 3.92 axles
2020 Bullet 291RLS
1-wife / 1-dog / 2-kids
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03-24-2014, 03:20 PM
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#34
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Permanent User Ban
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bartlesville, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08quadram
VERY NICE. What did you end up with for an R value on that insulation. I design a lot of pre engineered buildings for my firm, but we typically fill the purlin/girt cavities with insulation, we haven't done that method for quite some time.............mainly because it will not pass IEC "International Energy Code", but then neither does filling the cavity.........I'm starting to rant, better cut it off.
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I think the states R value was 19??? And that's solely based upon the 4" of bat.... I can't recall exactly.
The insulation is really effective. The coolest my (un heated) building has ever gotten down to is 40F.... And that's with repeated nights of single digit lows and sub-freezing-point daily high temps.
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10-15-2014, 03:14 AM
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#35
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1
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We have built a 32'x40' pole barn metal buildings colorado and this is the maximum size suggested by our metal building professional. You must ask first few building professionals about size and then start building as it is essential to mention area of pole barn in application.
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10-15-2014, 05:17 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Lunenburg, MA
Posts: 109
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Since this came up again, thought I'd throw out where I am today with the project..(since I'm still all giddy about it..LOL)
Don't mind the mess, still waiting to have the interior of the shop finished so I can organize everything.
Here is a link to a write up I just did if anyone is interested..
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=209131
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10-15-2014, 06:15 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTWingRiders
Since this came up again, thought I'd throw out where I am today with the project..(since I'm still all giddy about it..LOL)
Don't mind the mess, still waiting to have the interior of the shop finished so I can organize everything.
Here is a link to a write up I just did if anyone is interested..
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=209131
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Wow, very nice!!
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10-15-2014, 06:29 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,037
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FTWingRiders
Just looked at your photos..
WOW!!! and WOW again!!!!
Great project and an even greater looking RV barn and shop and all that it is.. SWEET!!!
I too would look at your house photos along with those of the RV Barn.
Thanks for sharing.
randy
makes my RVport look like a metal RVport.
__________________
Randy "Camp On"
2011 Cougar 327RES
2014 Ford F-350, 6.7L 4X4, CC, SRW
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10-15-2014, 07:09 AM
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#39
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 26
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I built a cover for my 5th wheel myself. It wasn't difficult except for needing a lift to get high enough. I'm in the country so didn't need any kind of permit. I built mine 16' by 36'. The width is fine but I now wish I had built it one more panel longer- 39'. It can still be extended but would have been easier to have just built it bigger in the first place. Poles are 4.5" thick wall oilfield pipe (9 of them) set 3.5' deep so it's likely to survive anything short of a big tornado. If I do extend it I'll probably go another 9 or 10 feet. It can never be too big. I made it 15' high too- that way I can wash the roof without moving it.
The sides on my shelter stop about 4' from the ground and just have a gate at the front. Welded cow panels to it for the bottom 4' to keep the cows out.
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10-15-2014, 07:15 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Central VA
Posts: 146
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This is a timely thread. I am in the midst of this type of project. My budget is tight, so I'm just looking at a steel carport.
I just had the area leveled and graveled, so a gravel pad is where it will be placed and that portion is complete.
I need help getting the sizing correct. I'm going with a 36' long carport and the maximum width I can fit is 14'. The price difference between 12' and 14' is $100, so it seems worth it to go with the max even if it's tight.
I'm still pondering the height. I have dimensions from the manufacturer and with 12' sides the clearance down the middle is 14'-3" with a minimum clearance of 12'-8" across 11' of the width tapering down to 10'8" at the 14' mark. That should fit my 5th wheel which has a max height of 13'-3" at the ac units in the center of the roof.
It would cost a bit more to go to 13' high posts, but then I would be clear across all of the usable space.
Does anyone have one of these? Any recommendations?
Thanks!
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