Water heater temp adjustment

Micki · 12-31-2014, 09:57 AM

Does anyone know how to increase the water heater temperature in the 2008 Montana?

GaryWT · 12-31-2014, 10:31 AM

Most water heaters are preset by the thermostat and are not adjustable. If the water is not hot then a new thermostat might be needed.

Micki · 12-31-2014, 11:40 AM

It's a brand new replacement we just put in a few months ago. But the old water heater seemed to provide hot water for about 10 minutes longer than this one does. I'm running out of hot water before I even finish washing the dishes or taking a shower. It doesn't make sense since everything else is the same as the old water heater, size, model, etc.

Larry1013 · 12-31-2014, 12:19 PM

Might sound dumb, but have you checked to see if you have any shower style faucets with both hot and cold water turned on but shut off at the shower head?...this could cause water to be circulated and you only have warm water. Just a thought.

**hankpage** · 12-31-2014, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Micki

It's a brand new replacement we just put in a few months ago. But the old water heater seemed to provide hot water for about 10 minutes longer than this one does. I'm running out of hot water before I even finish washing the dishes or taking a shower. It doesn't make sense since everything else is the same as the old water heater, size, model, etc.

Check what Larry said, especially outside shower!!!!
Are you running it on both electric and propane??? With both on you should have plenty of hot water. We leave electric on all the time and turn on propane just before showers. (having only 30 amp service we don't use electric WH with AC on.) If you are on both and running out doing just dishes ... something is wrong. JM2¢, Hank

Micki · 12-31-2014, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry1013

Might sound dumb, but have you checked to see if you have any shower style faucets with both hot and cold water turned on but shut off at the shower head?...this could cause water to be circulated and you only have warm water. Just a thought.

Just three faucets, and the shower head is open. Shower has separate hot and cold knobs. The other two have one lever for both hot and cold, depending on where it's pushed (left, middle for warm or right).

Micki · 12-31-2014, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hankpage

Check what Larry said, especially outside shower!!!!
Are you running it on both electric and propane??? With both on you should have plenty of hot water. We leave electric on all the time and turn on propane just before showers. (having only 30 amp service we don't use electric WH with AC on.) If you are on both and running out doing just dishes ... something is wrong. JM2¢, Hank

It can be either electric or propane, but not both at the same time. It's always been on electric, with the old leaky one and the new one. But it just seems to run out of hot water too soon. Maybe I was faster at these things six months ago. I know we all slow down as we age, but this is ridiculous.

**JRTJH** · 12-31-2014, 02:08 PM

I've never heard of any RV water heater that restricts use of both electric and propane systems at the same time. Certainly, Suburban and Atwood both can be used on both systems at the same time. You might want to closely doublecheck your owner's manual and if you don't see a "Caution" or a "Warning" restricting use, then your new water heater is the same as all of ours. Check, then turn on the propane when you're using the water heater.

One other thing you might want to check is the winter bypass valve at the back lower water connection. It may be slightly open and allowing cold water to "leak through" to the hot water side. If it's open, you should close it so all the water is routed through the HWH, it will be significantly hotter at the faucets.

Good Luck

Micki · 12-31-2014, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I've never heard of any RV water heater that restricts use of both electric and propane systems at the same time. Certainly, Suburban and Atwood both can be used on both systems at the same time. You might want to closely doublecheck your owner's manual and if you don't see a "Caution" or a "Warning" restricting use, then your new water heater is the same as all of ours. Check, then turn on the propane when you're using the water heater.

One other thing you might want to check is the winter bypass valve at the back lower water connection. It may be slightly open and allowing cold water to "leak through" to the hot water side. If it's open, you should close it so all the water is routed through the HWH, it will be significantly hotter at the faucets.

Good Luck

John, this isn't entirely clear. I don't think I said either the propane or electric were restricted. We just don't have the propane connected because we don't want to use the propane for heating the water. Electric should be sufficient, as it was with the old heater.

Now, it sounds like you're suggesting we route ALL the water through the hot water side. I guess it would be significantly hotter if nothing is routed through the cold water side. I'd like both hot and cold water, so am I misunderstanding something? As I understand the schematic, the cold has a separate route to the faucet and the hot water is diverted through the heater. Is that the bypass you're talking about?

We didn't get a manual for this, or maybe the installer guy kept it. Is there a manual online that we can download? The only thing I found was an installation schematic for a ShurFlo water pump.

Larry1013 · 12-31-2014, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Micki

Just three faucets, and the shower head is open. Shower has separate hot and cold knobs. The other two have one lever for both hot and cold, depending on where it's pushed (left, middle for warm or right).

Do you have an outside shower head that you might have use to vent the water lines to install the new water heater? If so, check it to be sure.

GaryWT · 12-31-2014, 05:53 PM

Have you pulled the relief valve on the heater to be sure the tank is full and that there is not some type of air pocket not letting the tank fill completely. Probably not the issue but just guessing at this point.

**JRTJH** · 12-31-2014, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Micki

John, this isn't entirely clear. I don't think I said either the propane or electric were restricted. We just don't have the propane connected because we don't want to use the propane for heating the water. Electric should be sufficient, as it was with the old heater.

Now, it sounds like you're suggesting we route ALL the water through the hot water side. I guess it would be significantly hotter if nothing is routed through the cold water side. I'd like both hot and cold water, so am I misunderstanding something? As I understand the schematic, the cold has a separate route to the faucet and the hot water is diverted through the heater. Is that the bypass you're talking about?

We didn't get a manual for this, or maybe the installer guy kept it. Is there a manual online that we can download? The only thing I found was an installation schematic for a ShurFlo water pump.

There is a "BYPASS" valve located on the back of the hot water heater. Its purpose is to connect the hot water heater input (so all the water to be heated is routed through the water heater) or it bypasses the hot water heater so none of the water flows through the HWH (for winter storage). If that valve is partially open, it will bypass some cold water into the water heater discharge and significantly cool the HWH output. This all occurs on the "hot water side" of your plumbing. The cold water side is not connected to the HWH and you will need to adjust cold/hot faucets to adjust the temp to your comfort level when using any faucet.

As for not using propane, that's certainly your choice, most of us here are unable to shower with only the water produced by the electric element. As stated above by other members, most of us turn on the propane to shower, using both the electric and the gas sides to get enough hot water to have a "reasonable" shower. Most electric water heaters won't produce enough hot water to wash the dishes and then shower a few minutes later. The "final rinse" will almost always be a cool (or cold) one.

Micki · 12-31-2014, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry1013

Do you have an outside shower head that you might have use to vent the water lines to install the new water heater? If so, check it to be sure.

My husband says "no", no outside shower head.

Micki · 12-31-2014, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

There is a "BYPASS" valve located on the back of the hot water heater. Its purpose is to connect the hot water heater input (so all the water to be heated is routed through the water heater) or it bypasses the hot water heater so none of the water flows through the HWH (for winter storage). If that valve is partially open, it will bypass some cold water into the water heater discharge and significantly cool the HWH output. This all occurs on the "hot water side" of your plumbing. The cold water side is not connected to the HWH and you will need to adjust cold/hot faucets to adjust the temp to your comfort level when using any faucet.

As for not using propane, that's certainly your choice, most of us here are unable to shower with only the water produced by the electric element. As stated above by other members, most of us turn on the propane to shower, using both the electric and the gas sides to get enough hot water to have a "reasonable" shower. Most electric water heaters won't produce enough hot water to wash the dishes and then shower a few minutes later. The "final rinse" will almost always be a cool (or cold) one.

Ha, ha, I'm not really saying things well. Noooo. No one's taking a shower right after doing dishes. The point is that the hot water runs out before I get the dishes done, or just about the time I'm done in the shower. The previous hot water heater, running solely on electric had hot water left over after either activity.

It seems to me the bypass valves and things you're talking about are under the counter where the water heater is, not outside. Is that correct?

---------
My husband understands what you're saying. He's seen the plumbing and I haven't.

Micki · 01-05-2015, 07:57 PM

That valve wasn't anywhere near the water heater, but at the other end of the RV. He said it was on, switched it off, then on again, and now it all seems to be more normal. So, Thanks.

jkohler70 · 01-06-2015, 06:27 AM

I cannot even visualize how the hot water bypass could/would be located at the opposite end of the RV. It would be impossible to winterize this line without filling the water heater with antifreeze. The purpose of the bypass is to allow you to drain the water heater, switch the bypass, then winterize the lines. If there was a 30' line between the bypass valve and water heater, it couldn't be winterized after placing it in bypass position.
I think the bypass valve is always on the backside of the water heater.

**chuckster57** · 01-06-2015, 06:54 AM

On some models/brands, the fresh water hookup black rinser and drain handles are in a compartment. The bypass valve can be located there also. Next time I see one, I'll snap a picture.

jkohler70 · 01-06-2015, 01:36 PM

If the line from the bypass junction to the water heater is of significant length, how would one winterize that line?

Festus2 · 01-06-2015, 02:08 PM

The line after the bypass to the water heater is "open" at the water heater end so any water standing or remaining in that line would either drain into the empty water heater or there would be enough room for any expansion. Consequently, there would be no need to "winterize" the line after the shutoff valve. This line is not closed or contained throughout its length --- it's closed at one end and open at the other.

You may also like: