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Old 12-10-2019, 11:05 AM   #1
Wayne883
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Dometic DM2862 Not Working

I apologize for beating a dead horse but I've looked quite a bit at previous posts and am unable to find a solution. My fridge is not working in my Raptor 361LEV on gas or electric and I'm afraid I need to replace it but want to exhaust all options first. Here is what I know. My converter died and my fridge stopped working around the same time. I'm not sure what to make of that but the converter was replaced and is supplying 12VDC to the fridge as well as the rest of the camper. I also have 120VAC, both sources on the control board. Both fuses are good, the high temp switch is closed, there is no ammonia or yellow stuff anywhere, and the heater is reading around 41 ohms. I see what looks like a diode in line with one of the red wires going to the hi temp switch and it ohms closed. I'm not sure if it is diode or a resistor that should have a higher ohm reading. I've pulled the fridge out and and had a look at the vent and everything is intact. The control panel only shows one light and it is the cold setting. When I power up the fridge while holding the temp setting and source selection simultaneously for 5 seconds it appears to go into a diagnostic mode as the lights flash in some sequence for a few seconds. At that point the check light stays on for a few seconds then goes out. I also used a hair dryer to remove a block of ice from the fins in the refrigerator section about 1.5 to 2 weeks prior to it not working. It worked normal for that time period and there is the converter coincidence but again, I don't know what to think of that. If anyone has had a similar experience I absolutely appreciate what you're able to share with me. If I have to replace it I'm likely going with a Norcold unit as a local supplier has indicated the Dometic has a substantial shipping fee. Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-10-2019, 12:41 PM   #2
chuckster57
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If there isn’t continuity through that resister, then the fridge won’t operate. 12V goes through it, to the high limit switch on the chimney and then to the control board. Have you verified voltage from the 12V block ( where the trailer leads go) to the board via that route?
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Old 12-10-2019, 02:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne883 View Post
... I also used a hair dryer to remove a block of ice from the fins in the refrigerator section about 1.5 to 2 weeks prior to it not working. It worked normal for that time period ...

Since you used a hair dryer on the fins, you might have damaged the thermistor. I'd verify that it is good before doing too much more "replacing"... Also, if someone replaced the converter (not inverter) they may have blown the reverse polarity fuses on the converter. They're the two 40 amp "midi size" fuses, either on the power distribution panel or on the converter.

My guess is that you may have an issue with "heat damage" to the thermistor...
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Old 12-11-2019, 10:11 AM   #4
Wayne883
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Chuckster, I do have continuity and DC voltage through the resistor. It is coming straight from the DC source (trailer wiring), through the temp switch, through the resistor, then to the control board on J4. If it leaves the control board on J2 to the heating cable (I'm assuming), there is no DC voltage on J2. Maybe bad order control board due to an issue that may have occurred with the converter?
JR, my mistake on the inverter vs. converter. I do know the difference, I got them crossed in my head while typing the post. I updated the original post with the correct terminology. Thank you. I replaced the converter myself and no wires were crossed. I came to the conclusion that it was bad order when I found no DC voltage on the back of the fridge. I then moved to the DC buss, found no voltage there. At that point I checked the AC supply to the converter. It was good, the fuses were good, and there was no DC output. Once I replaced it I moved back to troubleshooting the fridge. I only mentioned it in the original post as they were discovered not to be working at the same time and wondered if anyone had experienced an issue similar to mine. I found it odd they both stopped working/were discovered at the same time. Regarding the thermistor, it's reading 4-5k ohms. I'm not sure what it should be. I've read where some guys replaced the control board only to find it to be something else later but I'm wondering if I may have a bad control board. Thank you both for your help.
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Old 12-11-2019, 04:56 PM   #5
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Here's one "quick down and dirty" check for your thermistor:

Dometic Thermistor

To test the Dometic thermistor, disconnect it from the main (lower) circuit board and place the other end (sensor end) into a glass of ice water. After a few minutes you should be able to get a resistance reading of 7,000 to 10,000 ohms between the two terminals of the connector.

If it checks good, reconnect it and position it on the first fin, mid level and try the refrigerator again. Who knows, stranger things have happened.

Without going back to reread the entire thread, did you check the two glass cartridge fuses on the refrigerator control board?
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Old 12-12-2019, 04:26 PM   #6
Wayne883
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The two glass fuses are good. That was one of the first things I checked when I started troubleshooting. Today I checked the thermistor with the ice batch and got a definite change in resistance. It moved to a little over 9k ohms. I believe it is good. I should also mention it wasn't attached to the fins during the ice block melting but it is now back in place on the first fin. I also found another wrinkle today. In an earlier post I mentioned holding the two buttons on the control panel while starting the unit up. Today I took it a step further and held the same two for an additional five seconds. At that point I could hear the igniter firing on the gas, but no ignition. The gas was obviously unhooked so I hooked it back up, verified gas at the supply side of the coil/valve, but no gas is passing through it. The valve is not opening. The coil that controls the valve is reading around 40 ohms but there is no AC or DC voltage on the two terminals supplying the coil. This makes be believe the fridge is trying to go into limp mode or work on gas. I may be getting tunnel vision but it seems to be pointing to a bad order control board? Thanks.
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Old 12-12-2019, 05:06 PM   #7
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You are probably on the right path. I'd guess it's the control board as well. That said, before I ordered a replacement, I'd make certain the gas line is purged and I'd verify that there is a spark (not just a click-noise) at the burner.

If you're going to order a replacement, Dometic control boards are "not as good" as Dinosaur electronics products. If it's out of warranty and you're going to pay for the board, I'd suggest ordering a Dinosaur product. When you get it and hold the OEM board and the new Dinosaur board side by side, you'll see the difference in build quality. I've used Dinosaur Electronics products for the past 20-25 years with excellent results…. No, I don't own any stock in the company, just a satisfied customer.....
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Old 12-12-2019, 06:29 PM   #8
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I agree, if it’s the board go with the dinasour brand.
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Old 02-10-2020, 06:07 PM   #9
Wayne883
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I realized I'd never closed or finalized this post with a successful repair but here it is. The new dinosaur board and a new thermistor did not resolve the issue. I was convinced it was one or the other but it wasn't. I did not try a new eyebrow as by that time I felt like I'd exhausted all of my ability. I wound up buying a new reefer and installing it. The absolute best price I found was from Camping World with my Good Sam membership and an online discount code. I should also mention that between my model and the replacement model I had to purchase new door panels as the old ones were too small. Thanks for all of the help with trying to repair the old reefer. It is very much appreciated.
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Old 02-10-2020, 06:26 PM   #10
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Thank you for the update. I wonder what failed.
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