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08-16-2019, 05:33 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Axle Bearings... (So What?)
Hi everyone-
I've been reading a lot about various maintenance issues and preventative measures that people take and I realize after reading these different threads that while I thought I was going an ok job over the last four years of hauling my '15 Outback on the maintenance, there's a lot that I'm not doing. Specifically, on axle and bearing maintenance. It seems I've been lucky that nothing has happened yet since I haven’t re-packed my bearings and I figure I’m going on about 11-12K miles. So now, I’m convinced that I need to pull these wheels off and replace the bearings and races with quality bearings and "good grease" before I have a catastrophic failure.
But, I also see a lot of people talking about what they (do while on the road ie different methods of either touching or IR gun) about checking their bearings. But to this I ask, so what? Assuming a hub is too hot to touch or the IR gun reads a significant temp difference, what is an average (or above average) person on vacation going to do about a hub that is significantly hotter than the rest? If we agree that lubing the zirks is a bad idea, than I'm not sure there's much recourse. Am I wrong in thinking a lot of DIYers aren't going to pull apart their hub at a rest top to verify that there's a problem. Can you even call triple AAA+ or Good Sams roadside assistance for help in a case like this or is it best to break out the hose and spray the hub down to try and cool it?
I'm not trying to be a smart@ss, I really am hoping the group and suggest what an average DIY should do if they catch this issue. I'm kinda at a loss as to what's one can do. If the answers is, "you need to keep a benchstock of bearings, race, grease and puller and then learn how to do this" then so be it- I'm on board!
Lastly, what are some “better quality” greases that I should be using/carrying? I know this is somewhat subjective, but there has to be some that are better than others. And what is considered the best bearings, race (assemblies) out there for a 5500# axle?
I appreciate everyone’s thoughts on both the “So What?” as well as recommendations on parts and supplies!
-Andy
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08-16-2019, 05:42 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,339
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I would just take the hub assemblies apart. Inspect the bearings and races. If there isn’t any heat scoring then clean and repack. Seals are not reusable, so get new ones. If the brake shoes look like they are about worn don’t bother with the frustration of trying to change the shoes, just get new backing plate assemblies.
With proper care, I’m a firm believer that the factory components can outlast ownership. Most failures I have seen are from lack of care, not component failure.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-16-2019, 05:54 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Chuckster57- thanks for the advice, but would you do that on the road? Having never done this, but knowing some of what it takes, this is a not exactly a 30 min job (well, not for me). I've always assumed that pulling the hub and replacing bearings is a bit involved. So if the quick inspection while on a break reveals a hub too hot to touch(maybe even a slight smell) or the IR reveals a large temp difference, is pulling the hub really the only remedy in order to get a better look and inspection of what's going on? I'm OK with, "yup, that's what needs to be done" or "No, you can do X,Y or Z"
So it sounds like a supply of seals and grease is a requirement to have on hand when traveling as well as a complete inner and outer bearing set with races. This is good since I like to carry spare parts!
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08-16-2019, 06:03 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,339
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If your on the road, then yeah finding a hub significantly hotter than the others will require disassembly to assess the problem.
I can’t say I’ve ever carried bearings and races and grease with me. Been across the US a few times, just did preventative maintenance prior to trip. Maybe I’ve been lucky? I don’t carry a temp gun or make it a point to feel my hubs at every stop. Then again I don’t carry a torque wrench and check lugs each time I hook up. Guess there’s other stuff that I’d rather worry about like traffic and weather conditions.
We have customers that travel extensively and when they come in for axle service, all looks good.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-16-2019, 06:13 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 507
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I carry wheel bearing seals and the necessary tools when traveling, so I could replace the seals at a rest stop if needed. But I think the best practice is to repack the bearings (by hand) annually. Just use a high temperature wheel bearing grease - not sure the manufacturer matters - and I use a simple wheel bearing packer to make sure all the old grease gets pushed out.
__________________
Steve & Diane
2015 Montana 3402RL
2017 F350 Super Duty Lariat 6.7 Powerstroke, Super Cab, Long Box, 4WD DRW
18K PullRite Super 5th ISR
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08-16-2019, 06:16 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Chuckster- Thanks! I'm not too far different in the sense that I'm not checking lugs or hubs on breaks, but I do walk around and look to see if all is well. I think I'm lucky but I'm starting to think that the more I drive across the country, something will inevitably fail on me, odds go up the more I do it. The piece that I'm falling short on is the preventative side prior to my trips with respect to the axles and bearings.
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08-16-2019, 06:22 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Cbrez, Thanks! That's the thing I'm not doing but clearly need to start, is repacking the bearings. I suspect mine at about 11-12K are due to be replaced? I never thought replacing bearings as a side of the road job... but it's good to see you guys offering recommendations on how to handle a situation like this because it helps me manage the DW's expectations when something like this happens. Knowing what to do and having the material/equipment on hand and managing the expectations of her is key to making the most of a bad situation! Plus, like you and Chuckster say, preventative maintenance is key to avoiding the side of the road fixes (that are preventable).
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08-16-2019, 06:26 PM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,339
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I’ve seen bearings with double or triple the mileage and didn’t need replacement.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-16-2019, 06:38 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Chuckster- that's good to know that these are not necessarily dead at 10K miles and the DW will be very happy if our's turn out to still be good once we take them in for servicing (she hates to see the maintenance costs). Luckily, the RV service center that we go to is ok with letting me help with whatever they are doing so I can see and learn how its done (not that it saves me any money by helping- nor would I expect it). I think since we're a good customer to them and they know we're not living here for ever, they don't seem to have an issue with it. Plus, I think they like that it gives transparency to the process. That's good for everybody. Most times I can't get the time off work to work with them , but on this one, I'm gong to make it a point.
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08-16-2019, 06:44 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,339
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If you have the ability to actually be there while the work is being done, that’s a very rare thing. Liability laws prevent customers from being in the shop out here. Learn all you can, there is a bunch of stuff to learn that’s for sure. It seems like the industry changes every week.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-16-2019, 06:49 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Lisbon
Posts: 551
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I've never carried spare parts to change out bearings on an axle. I guess it doesn't hurt but I can't see myself doing it on the side of the road. But if you called a service at least you would have the parts on hand.
But like the OP asked in his original question what would happen if you had a hot bearing in the middle of nowhere? Is it best to nurse it to the closest place that can help out if you can? What if the axle is damaged? I guess you would have to get a flat bed to put the trailer on and haul it to a place?
It would be a bad day no doubt!
__________________
2018 Keystone Cougar 22RBS
2020 Ford F-350 XLT SC SRW 6.7l Powerstroke.
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08-16-2019, 06:56 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Steveo- I hadn't thought about it, but you're right, if you have the parts, at least a service center can replace it for you rather than having to wait for parts to come in. The problem that I run into with the DW is she hates wrapping money up into spare parts. Although when our inverter went the time we were at Fort Wilderness in Disney, she wished we had the partson hand that night. Luckily, the CW had one on had the next morning and I was able to isolate the fault to that. My problem with it was it was the same inverter and not a better one. At least I know know how to do it - quick tip, don't cut the plug thinking you have to hardwire it, on the '15 Outback there is an internal outlet inside the cabinet that the inverter plugs into that you cannot see... don't ask me how I know...
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08-16-2019, 07:01 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Chuckster- I figured a lot of States insurance laws would prohibit customers being on the floor while work is being conducted and frankly, I'm not sure that's it's exactly legal in NM, but I must seem like I know what I'm doing or at the very least not a PIA. I'm always torn by doing things myself or taking my business to them but I find on jobs that I don't have the tools for or I'm out of my depth, I go to them, of course that always seems to be the more expensive jobs! But so long as they let me observe and ask questions, I don't mind taking my business to them! I'm going to be a little sad when we move again next Spring!
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08-16-2019, 08:31 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,909
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My wife used to rag on me about having a tote with spare parts, until four years ago, traveling through Laredo, TX, lost an outer bearing and fortunately didn't lose the wheel. A couple of guys flagged us to open window, said our brakes smelled bad. Pulled over on a side street and found the wheel in an un-natural angle. I called around and no one in the area had parts, drum/hub, backing plate assembly, or anything. So, into my parts tote I went, pulled out a complete set of bearings and races, my brass punch, container of grease, and I had a seal, but the seal area of the hub was damaged so wouldn't work. In less than a couple hours, had the parts replaced in the hub, cut all the damaged brake parts off the backing plate, and everything back together and back on the road. I ordered all the new parts and had them shipped to a future stop where I replaced them. I have a salesman at a Redneck Trailer Supply store south of Fresno, CA to thank for suggesting I carry the set of bearings. Needless to say, wife does not complain about having spare parts on board anymore. It also is nice having the hydraulic leveling system to raise the trailer to do this work.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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08-16-2019, 10:44 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Bobbecky- That's a great example of why you should carry parts and yet one reason not to go through Laredo at the same time! Actually I go there for work every so often, it's an interesting place! More and more I'm convincing myself that I need to carry a small benchstock of parts like this! Thanks!
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08-17-2019, 04:31 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Liberty, Texas
Posts: 5,034
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Watch the shop service the bearings. You'll get the basic idea.
Carry spare bearings and a seal. Pack the bearings and store in a zip lock bag.
Or buy a complete hub, pack the bearings, install, and install the seal. Wrap in a heavy duty trash bag, put it back in the cardboard box it was shipped in , and store in the trailer. You now have the basics to get back on the road if the spindle wasn't damaged.
Congrats to Bob surviving being on a side street in Laredo. Worked there for a year. Scary.
edit...look on Dexters website for recommended grease. One recommended was Mobil1 synthetic, which is what I use.
__________________
2018 Ram 3500 Laramie CC DRW LWB 4X4 Cummins Aisin 3.73
Reese Goosebox 20K
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4 LB Cabover
2023 CanAm Defender SXS
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08-17-2019, 05:13 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Gearhead- Thanks for the tip on Mobile1 synthetic and on the parts! I did a cursory look on amazon last night and realized I need to figure out what I need for the 5500# Dexter axels. at first blush, I like the hub assembly idea, I assume that's easier to replace than the bearings and race but if cost is an issue than just the bearings is an easier sell. Plus carring a hub assembly takes up a alot more space than just a set of bearings. I need to consider what is really the best way to do it. My gut tells me just the bearings.
If a person doesn't catch it in time, are you more likely to have to replace the entire assembly?
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08-17-2019, 05:44 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Liberty, Texas
Posts: 5,034
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If the paper tag is still on the axle tube, get all the info off it, or take a pic. Call Dexter and ask them for bearing and seal numbers. Get the numbers for several seal manufacturers...National, Chicago Rawhide, and for sure Dexter brand. May as well get the washer part number and the spindle nut too. You can buy all this on Amazon. ETrailer should have this as well.
Damage depends. It may all just fall off or it may take a hammer and chisel. If you have the complete assembly it will save time and avoid removing and installing bearing races on the side of the road in a mudhole.
__________________
2018 Ram 3500 Laramie CC DRW LWB 4X4 Cummins Aisin 3.73
Reese Goosebox 20K
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4 LB Cabover
2023 CanAm Defender SXS
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08-17-2019, 06:50 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso
Posts: 157
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Gearhead - Thanks for the tip and help on the way-ahead to pursue tracking down the information to order the right parts. I really appreciate the "free-chicken" from everybody on what to do in the event this happens on the road and how do you fix and prevent it!
The cursory look at a hub assembly didn't look to be too bad in terms of cost on Amazon. I think the DW will accept that type of cost versus the alternate of ruined vacation if we have a catastrophic failure and need help be recovered and then waiting for the fix!
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08-17-2019, 07:03 AM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,995
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While you're ordering bearings/races, grease seals and such, don't forget the obvious: COTTER PINS !!!!! Without them, you're going to resort to finding a nail in the junk drawer..... BTDT...
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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