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06-16-2018, 07:34 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Washburn
Posts: 11
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Front jack issue 327RES
I bought a 2010 327RES in February. I towed it home, and to a couple of locations with no issues. Took my first trip about 5 weeks ago and when I arrived at the campground the front jacks would not go down by the panel mounted switch. Grabbed the remote, and luckily was able to put the jack down. Discovered fuse was blown for the switch. I towed home and jacks worked on unhooking.
Next trip about 3 weeks ago and the jacks went up fine. Got to the campground and again the front jacks would not work, found the fuse blown again. Got home with the same story.
Spent an entire afternoon chasing wires. I cleaned up all of the wiring where the truck wires harness ties into the 5er. Checked and replaced the switch with a new one. Checked all grounds by appearance and continuity. The wires (DPDT switch) have obviously been probed as each had piercing marks in them; leads me to believe this problem is not new. I also found the hot for the docking lights (switch just below front jacks switch) dangling loose. Fixed everything up, tightened connections, used black tape to isolate and secure connections.
Hooked up last week...stepped on brake, headlights were on due to time of day, and backed up a couple of feet. Fuse was blown again.
I hooked up tonight and tried everything...and the fuse will not blow.
As an observation, the fuse does not seem to blow when I attempt to use the jacks by use of the switch. The problem seems to be in the fuse blowing at some point during towing with the switch being unusable when I go to use it. Every wire appears healthy, nothing is loose, wire loom is in place.
Anyone run across this in their units? Ideas/suggestions?
Joe
__________________
Joe Belany
Washburn, WI
2010 Keystone 327RES
2016 Silverado 2500HD
B&W Patriot slider
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06-17-2018, 05:16 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Columbia
Posts: 128
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The only thing I can think of is a wire run that is pinched, broken and shorting out with twisting and movement of the trailer. It would have to be in the hot wire feeding the switch. Try running a separate jumper wire that has an inline fuse from battery to switch any ugly way you can to see if that fuse blows under same circumstances.. Disconnect or leave existing fuse blown.
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06-17-2018, 05:36 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Dade City
Posts: 1,039
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Just some thoughts; Is the circuit with the blowing fuse a control circuit, meaning it drives a relay that controls the (electric?) jacks? or is it the actual power lead that runs the motor for the (electric?) jacks? or are we dealing with a hydraulic jack system?
In any case the fuse is seeing a direct short to ground or a overload condition. If this is intermittent and occurs only when traveling I suspect it is a direct short condition, and is between the fuse and the manual switch.
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06-24-2018, 08:25 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Washburn
Posts: 11
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Thank you!
Thank you for the replies to my blown fuse problem. The fuse which was blowing is directly inline with the motor to the DPDT switch.
As luck would have it, I just spent the last 6 nights in the Keystone. Thursday a gentleman pulls up and is pulling the same vintage 327RES. We got to chatting and I explained the problem. He told me to stop shy on the lift of the front legs as there is no cutout system. Every time I lifted the gear legs I would hold the switch until the lift stopped. Turns out this was causing the inline fuse to blow. Since he showed me the cure to the problem, the lift legs work as they should.
Joe
__________________
Joe Belany
Washburn, WI
2010 Keystone 327RES
2016 Silverado 2500HD
B&W Patriot slider
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06-25-2018, 02:53 AM
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#5
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbelany
Thank you for the replies to my blown fuse problem. The fuse which was blowing is directly inline with the motor to the DPDT switch.
As luck would have it, I just spent the last 6 nights in the Keystone. Thursday a gentleman pulls up and is pulling the same vintage 327RES. We got to chatting and I explained the problem. He told me to stop shy on the lift of the front legs as there is no cutout system. Every time I lifted the gear legs I would hold the switch until the lift stopped. Turns out this was causing the inline fuse to blow. Since he showed me the cure to the problem, the lift legs work as they should.
Joe
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Many people put a line with a Sharpie or piece of tape so they can "see" where the limit is. Glad you found a solution.
__________________
Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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06-25-2018, 05:05 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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Here is a photo of the yellow reflective tape that I put on my "moveable landing gear leg" about 1/2" below the maximum top. When retracting the landing gear, if I go past the tape, the fuse will blow. I retract the gear until the tape is just visible and release the switch. I have another piece of tape at the maximum extension distance on that same landing gear leg. When lifting the front of the trailer, when I see the "top tape" I release the switch.
Although the tape is worn and needs to be replaced, there's enough to still clearly see when I'm at maximum extension or maximum retraction of the landing gear. This makes "protecting the fuse" much easier than just guessing.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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06-25-2018, 05:51 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Washburn
Posts: 11
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I like the tape idea, thanks for the suggestion!
This has been one of those trial by error things as I learn the difference between a 5er and my 16 years in the Jayco popup! :-)
Joe
__________________
Joe Belany
Washburn, WI
2010 Keystone 327RES
2016 Silverado 2500HD
B&W Patriot slider
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