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Old 06-27-2016, 11:39 AM   #1
sam3b
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friction sway control?

Hi,

I'm getting a new bullet 248rks. It weighs 4859lbs empty. Hitch weight is 535lbs. It's ~29ft long. I'm towing it with an F250 with plow package and with Timbrens in the rear. I'm trying to figure out if I need a sway hitch. I was looking at the Equalizer hitch specifically.

Any ideas on this?

thx
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:12 PM   #2
chuckster57
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friction sway control?

Get it. Better safe than sorry. Having extra suspension on the TV doesn't equate to needing less on the trailer.

BTW: Welcome to the forum.
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:37 PM   #3
BlueThunder34
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Get it, you won't regret it. I have the Equalizer 4 pt with my 1 ton and Cougar and it's nice to have the extra protection against sway, it's one of those things you don't know how much you need it until it's too late. It's probably one of the cheapest things you can purchase to make your setup significantly more stable.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:03 PM   #4
Chillaxin' III
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Yes!

GET IT!

I have ONE on my 35' long bumper-pull TT (Bullet 310BHS). After next weekend's tow all the way New Orleans from Florida, I'll decide on whether or not to add a 2nd one. But you should be good with just 1. So far, I have been.

I always hook mine up to tow, but usually only "tighten" it right before we get on the highway (where the BIG wind guts are). Just remember to remove it completely before doing any backing-up!
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:10 PM   #5
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I would go with it. I love my Equilizer.
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Old 06-28-2016, 06:50 AM   #6
sam3b
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Thanks for the feedback. I told them to add it.

thx
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:37 AM   #7
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I would go with it. I love my Equilizer.
x2 love it
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Old 07-07-2016, 04:33 PM   #8
Whitewolf
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I don't think you'll regret the decision. I had a friction sway control on our Passport and it worked great. Just pay attention to how you tighten it.
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Old 07-07-2016, 04:39 PM   #9
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Forgot to mention. My friction sway control said to unhook it before I backed up. Not sure why. I always did that. Ok, most of the time. Ok, some of the time. Ok, when I remembered.
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'21 Ram 3500 w/6.7 Cummins - Sinister Diesel oil bypass
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Old 07-07-2016, 06:34 PM   #10
chuckster57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitewolf View Post
Forgot to mention. My friction sway control said to unhook it before I backed up. Not sure why. I always did that. Ok, most of the time. Ok, some of the time. Ok, when I remembered.

If you turn sharp enough, the friction bar will retract. It will only retract so far and the tension will cause something to break.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:12 PM   #11
Outback 325BH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitewolf View Post
Forgot to mention. My friction sway control said to unhook it before I backed up. Not sure why. I always did that. Ok, most of the time. Ok, some of the time. Ok, when I remembered.


Another case where a manufacturer doesn't explain themselves.

The issue isn't backing up. The issue is jack-knifing -- some often down while backing up in an attempt to shoe-horn your trailer in a tight spot. If you exceed the stroke of the sway-bar or over-cam it, something gets bent and/or broken.

If you don't turn too sharp, you can back-up all day long. On most setups, you have to jack-knife pretty far to cause problems.

You can have someone watch while you slowly jack-knife in order to find the limits... and know what it looks like from the driver's seat. I will bet you will be close to causing other issues too, like your bumper hitting something or your WD bars exceeding their range. It is best to know the operational limits of everything back there.


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Old 07-13-2016, 05:13 PM   #12
Outback 325BH
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Wow... I see autocorrect did some damage again. Sorry folks...


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