Completed first mod

gmohr · 07-17-2011, 09:52 AM

Swapped out the power cable for a removable twist lock devices. Reinforced
the area around the mouse hole openings. This will definitely make it easier to
set up and take down. We hated the stiffness and trying to jam that cord in
at the end of a trip. Pretty easy to do, got the kit off of amazon, an hour later
and it was done. Now.. on to do the slide awnings..

rjsurfer · 07-17-2011, 11:56 AM

Which kit did you purchase?

Sometimes my cord gets stuck inside the compartment, got to take of the cover and stick my hand it there and try to free it.

Ron W.

Bob Landry · 07-17-2011, 12:19 PM

I did the same on my new Outback. but I didn't go for the overpriced kit, I purchased the inlet and mounted it on a piece of King Starboard large enough to cover the existing cutout, attached it with stainless sheet metal scews and sealed around the edges with white silicon. Easy job. Marinco's kit doesn't cover the cutout and they don't have a fix for it.

gmohr · 07-17-2011, 06:03 PM

This is what I used. ParkPower by Marinco 30ARVKIT RV Detachable Power
Conversion Kit (30-Amp) Yes it is pricy. No the ring doesn't fit exactly. But I
found a way to make it work. Now the cord twists off and goes under the
camper. Much easier when the cord is stiff and cold.

kingji · 08-07-2011, 05:17 AM

I would like to do the same to my springdale 279 but the back of the camper where the power cord is stored is not the bonded siding. I think it would be a little to flexy for the permanent connection there. Were any of your campers similar? I guess it could be moved to the left side behind the slide out where the sidewall is bonded..
jk

kingji · 08-07-2011, 05:21 AM

Where are you storing the cord when you say under the rv?

Bob Landry · 08-07-2011, 06:05 AM

There's no reason to move it. The back is flexy, but there's no weight on the outlet when you're traveling and the whole thing is probably only a few ozs more than the original mousehole. As long as you seal around it and the screws with a good quality silocon, you won't have a problem.
If your cord currently stores in a cabinet between the two rockers like mine did, that's a good place to install an EMS, since you already have the wiring to the converter.

Johnnyfry · 08-07-2011, 07:25 AM

HA, Now I know why the rear cabinet on my 318SAB has a cover on the front making the lower area useless. I already have a 50 amp plug at the center rear of the trailer.so the cabinet bottom is just wasted space --time to put a door on, or install a surge protector unit under there.

I guess when you get the 50 amp option they do not try to stuff the cord in there.

John

Bob Landry · 08-07-2011, 07:33 AM

That's what I did.

While I was at it, I installed it using interlocking male/female plugs so in the event of an EMS failure, I can remove it, reconnect the shore power to the converter and not ruin a trip. Also, if I change trailers,(unlikely) it's easy to take the EMS with me.

kingji · 08-07-2011, 09:15 AM

Is an EMS some sort of emergency shut off switch, juntion box or what. I guess a length of the orginal cord is still in the box but it would still make good storage for something other than 25' of cord. I know your going to make me feel silly about the EMS question.

X-Treme · 08-07-2011, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingji

Is an EMS some sort of emergency shut off switch, juntion box or what. I guess a length of the orginal cord is still in the box but it would still make good storage for something other than 25' of cord. I know your going to make me feel silly about the EMS question.

Check out www.progressiveindustries.net

KanTC · 08-07-2011, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingji

Is an EMS some sort of emergency shut off switch, juntion box or what........

Quote:

Originally Posted by X-Treme

Check out www.progressiveindustries.net

Jimmy, do a forum search for 'surge protection'... there's at least 2 prior threads with more info/discussion.

Terri, the Chevy co-pilot

DTJ9610 · 08-19-2011, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

That's what I did.

While I was at it, I installed it using interlocking male/female plugs so in the event of an EMS failure, I can remove it, reconnect the shore power to the converter and not ruin a trip. Also, if I change trailers,(unlikely) it's easy to take the EMS with me.

Bob, do you have any pics of your EMS install. Curious how the connectors look and how it is working out for you.

Bob Landry · 08-19-2011, 06:21 AM

The only photos I took of it are in a previous post. It's hard to see the plugs, but they are M-F 30A plugs from Home Depot, around $30 each. I installed them M-F-M-F so that if I need to take the EMS out, the cord from the inlet plugs into the wiring that feeds the converter. The EMS is installed under the shelf in the cabinet that sits between the two rockers. That was where the original cord stored anyway, so there's no space lost. I cut a spot in the paneling to mount the disply so I can open the cabinet door to look at it and I don't have anything flashing all the time. I still need to find some plywood edge trim to dress the edges where I cut it. Obviously, I converted the shore power cord to an inlet to be detachable. I used a Marinco Power inlet for that.

X-Treme · 08-19-2011, 11:26 AM

I don't mean to sound rude at all, but am just curious... Why did you not just drill a small hole to pass the telephone style wire through, rather than cutting out a large square piece?

DTJ9610 · 08-19-2011, 12:49 PM

Bob,

Do you have any concerns of the integity of having the lines hooked together with the M-F versus the solid wire. I completely understand why you did it and so long as there are no safety issues with that set up I think that's the way I'd go (did the same thing at home with my furnace so I could run it off the generator if I lost power in the mild Buffalo winters...lol).

Bob Landry · 08-19-2011, 02:12 PM

Why would there be safety issues? The plugs are Home Depot variety, UL approved and they interlock, so there's no chance of them coming loose and arcing. It's as good if not better than wires twisted, wire-nutted, and wrapped with tape. Besides, when you install the EMS, the solid wire reliability theory goes away, since you have to insert the device in the shore power wiring somehow. This just does it with plugs as apposed to twisting wires together.

Do you have any concerns about the integrety of your shore power cord being plugged into the power pedestal? Same difference.

Bob Landry · 08-19-2011, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X-Treme

I don't mean to sound rude at all, but am just curious... Why did you not just drill a small hole to pass the telephone style wire through, rather than cutting out a large square piece?

Because mounting it on the front of the plywood panel would have interfered with the cabinet door closing.

X-Treme · 08-19-2011, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

Because mounting it on the front of the plywood panel would have interfered with the cabinet door closing.

Gotcha. Makes sense.

DTJ9610 · 08-20-2011, 06:38 AM

I'm not an electrical expert so I just wanted to make sure. I am definitely going to look into that when I switch mine around. Thanks

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