Gutter caulking

[Ranchhand]

The caulking that seals my gutter to the trailer is separating. It’s probably difficult to see in the image. What kind of caulk do I use to fix this. Do I need to be concerned about water getting where it shouldn’t be or is that caulking just sealing the gutter to the camper. The trailer is still under warranty and I would like to do a temporary fix and have the dealer fix it properly when the camping season is over.

Thanks

Kevin

[chuckster57]

The metal piece should have been installed using putty or butyl tape behind it. Then they use non self leveling Dicor along the top edge to seal it. You could peel the old Dicor off, clean the surface with something like Fantastik and then re seal.

In truth I don’t think it would be covered under warranty, as re sealing is considered required maintenance that customer is responsible for after 90 days of ownership.

[Ranchhand]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

The metal piece should have been installed using putty or butyl tape behind it. Then they use non self leveling Dicor along the top edge to seal it. You could peel the old Dicor off, clean the surface with something like Fantastik and then re seal.

In truth I don’t think it would be covered under warranty, as re sealing is considered required maintenance that customer is responsible for after 90 days of ownership.

Thanks Chuckster for the quick reply. So you do not believe water intrusion to the trailer is a concern

[JRTJH]

The area in your photo is one of the most common places for water to intrude into the trailer. Water follows the path of least resistance, which is behind that aluminum molding, to a screw, down the screw and into the trailer. In wood frame trailers, that water path causes the wood frame to remain wet. In aluminum frames, that water path leads to a "hollow aluminum channel, straight to the floor of the trailer.....

The aluminum awning rail is "screwed to the trailer". There is a clay putty/butyl putty tape behind the awning rail, then there are a number of screws that attach it securely to the trailer frame..... As the wind blows, the awning "flaps in the wind" and every "flap of the awning" puts stress on the screws and over time, loosens them. Once the awning rail becomes loose, every time the wind blows, those screw holes get pulled "just a little bigger".... Once the putty tape separates, either from drying out (clay tape) or from pulling away from the structure (butyl tape), the water has an even larger "path of least resistance" straight to the wood frame or straight to that alumimun tube down to the floor. BOTH ARE DISASTEROUS TO TRAILER LONGIVITY !!!!!

The "band-aid fix" is to apply a fresh bead of putty tape to the top of the awning rail. That fix might last a week, it might last a season, it might last 2 or 3 seasons.... But as the awning "flaps in the wind" the root cause of the problelm, enlarged screw holes and loose screws, will continue to provide that path of least resistance, straight to the frame and floor of the trailer.....

The "proper fix" is to remove the awning, remove the awning rail, clean both the trailer and the awning rail and reinstall it with fresh butyl putty tape, then make a decision whether the existing screws and holes are adequate or if slightly larger screws would be a better fix. Install the screws, seal over each screw head, run the DICOR bead along the top of the awning rail and once dry, reinstall a new awning rail cover strip and reinstall the awning....

It sounds like a "major project", and it is time and labor intensive, but if you want to keep the trailer for any length of time, fix it the right way and it'll be an investment in future years of trailer reliability.