Roof Failure

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by aaron_huber

Fortunately mine didn't become fully detached but clearly air has gotten underneath somewhere and started to pull the membrane up. I've checked the roof frequently and I still don't see anywhere that the sealant on the front edge is compromised. Keystone won't touch it and insurance declined coverage claiming that it was a lack of maintenance.

I'm looking at the "RV Armor" or "FlexArmor" roof for a permanent fix.

So you looked at that joint on the front cap/roof and you honestly don't see an issue? Have you ever resealed that joint?

[mikec557]

Originally Posted by flybouy

So you looked at that joint on the front cap/roof and you honestly don't see an issue? Have you ever resealed that joint?

While the transition strip looks messy with dicor, I don't see anything wrong. No gap. What portion or location looks troubling to you? Can you describe as approximately x-feet from the left or right?

It looks like a 3/4in wide (metal?) transition strip. Is it on top of the nose cap, that's on top of the roof membrane? Or is it (I hope not) half on each the cap and membrane?

How far under the top of the nose cap does the roof membrane extend?

On a side note, we drove from Portland Oregon to Pendleton Oregon a couple weeks ago. We were on I-84. I saw 3 RVs going the opposite direction with huge ballooning rooftops at the front of the rig. They weren't flapping, yet, just inflated. I thought they probably don't even know it's happening...

[ChuckS]

Wow I see lots of issues with the unit with the trim strip.. I have resealed my 2014 at least twice a year starting on the day I brought it home new

[roadglide]

I Got 4x8 sheet of 1/8 aluminum plate 12 tubes of self-leveling Dicor Beads along the edges and middle . Pre drilling for the screws every 4 inches. Your repair is less difficult . I had to deal with air-conditioner . The last I checked the aluminum sheet was $75 and easily cut with a metal blade on a grinder. I use decor between the roof cap and aluminum then topped it off with Eternal Bond tape with dicor bead around the tape . I got gallon of EPDM liquid rubber white coating . The coating is still on the aluminum and the repair is three years old with no signs of wear. I had approximately $300 in material and a half a days . work. I would staple the rubber down and repair it with aluminum.

[aaron_huber]

Originally Posted by flybouy

So you looked at that joint on the front cap/roof and you honestly don't see an issue? Have you ever resealed that joint?

Not sure if you're referring to the pictures I posted but as far as visual appearance of the joint, that is how it was from the factory. I've inspected the sealant every few months and looked for anything that was loose or cracking and there still aren't any visible issues that I can find. For what it's worth, the insurance adjustor also inspected it closely and said he couldn't find any issues and they called it a manufacturing defect due to an incorrectly glued membrane and wouldn't cover it.

I guess if the "correct" procedure is to put new Dicor on top of the old stuff periodically whether it looks bad or not, then I didn't do it correctly.

[aaron_huber]

Originally Posted by mikec557

While the transition strip looks messy with dicor, I don't see anything wrong. No gap. What portion or location looks troubling to you? Can you describe as approximately x-feet from the left or right?

It looks like a 3/4in wide (metal?) transition strip. Is it on top of the nose cap, that's on top of the roof membrane? Or is it (I hope not) half on each the cap and membrane?

How far under the top of the nose cap does the roof membrane extend?

On a side note, we drove from Portland Oregon to Pendleton Oregon a couple weeks ago. We were on I-84. I saw 3 RVs going the opposite direction with huge ballooning rooftops at the front of the rig. They weren't flapping, yet, just inflated. I thought they probably don't even know it's happening...

Yeah, I'm at a loss as well, I can only assume there is some split in the sealant that just isn't visible from even inches away and the air pressure at highway speeds is enough to open it up. I've wondered if the roof line on the mid-profile fifth wheels might have something to do with it. On taller models the front cap extends to the full roof height so the air is moving over parallel to the transition strip, but my roof starts to angle down so the strip is at about a 15 degree angle to the ground and the wind is hitting it directly.

In any case, clearly it needed more maintenance than I was aware of so that will be an (expensive) lesson learned.

[aaron_huber]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

Wow I see lots of issues with the unit with the trim strip.. I have resealed my 2014 at least twice a year starting on the day I brought it home new

I guess on my next RV I'll have to be more aggressive as hopefully whichever new roof I pick will be permanent with no maintenance like they are advertising. I was always figuring I was looking for something like this.



So in your case, do you remove all the old sealant before you add new stuff? I've seen pictures and YouTube videos of roofs that look like they've got 6 inches of Dicor built up layer after layer which seemed a little ridiculous, but I'm not the one laughing now.

[mikec557]

Originally Posted by aaron_huber

Yeah, I'm at a loss as well, I can only assume there is some split in the sealant that just isn't visible from even inches away and the air pressure at highway speeds is enough to open it up. I've wondered if the roof line on the mid-profile fifth wheels might have something to do with it. On taller models the front cap extends to the full roof height so the air is moving over parallel to the transition strip, but my roof starts to angle down so the strip is at about a 15 degree angle to the ground and the wind is hitting it directly.

I agree with your mid profile observation. We recently sold our 5th wheel, it too was a mid profile. It sloped down so much in the front I hated going out there. Our transition strip looked just like your picture. I inspected it often but never did more than put a dab of dicor on a screw head.

I'd love to see how the manufacturer layers that joint, before it gets blobbed over with dicor.

I don't see where you could have done anything to prevent this. I don't understand "where" air could have gotten under the roof membrane. I think that's the mystery.

[wiredgeorge]

With RV-Armor, the tech removes all the old Dicor and reseals the penetrations with a similar product then coats it with RV-Armor so it never has to be resealed with Dicor again. If you need to fix a skylight or such, they give you enough product to cover the repair; I had to place a vent and did this myself and resealed and it looks great. I don't have to check the roof for cracking Dicor. I don't like to get on the roof. The side pieces on my camper were removed and the sides of the roof where it goes over the edge were all repaired and resealed and then covered with RV-Armor which is a multi step process.

[skids]

Roadglide, You keep that up and you will end up with an Airstream camper!

[Jim2366]

Next time buy an RV insurance policy that provides wear and rear coverage on the roof. I choose that option along with insect and vermin coverage through Progressive.

[CrazyCain]

Originally Posted by jmorse62

Does anyone have a picture of what the front portion of a Keystone roof should look like? After getting home and checking it closer it looks like there is a trim strip missing that would hold down that from metal end.

Just got back from checking the roof out and this is the front cap of my Hideout. Still Looks in pretty good shape, a couple of suspect spots but nothing that needs immediate attention. You can clearly see the transition piece. My fall [project will be either to remove the old Dicor or just clean it up real good and reseal over the old stuff

[hankpage]

Originally Posted by CrazyCain

Just got back from checking the roof out and this is the front cap of my Hideout. Still Looks in pretty good shape, a couple of suspect spots but nothing that needs immediate attention. You can clearly see the transition piece. My fall [project will be either to remove the old Dicor or just clean it up real good and reseal over the old stuff

If it were mine I would just clean it real good. This side looks good. Unless there is a bonding problem you will be opening a BIG can of worms any time you try to remove old sealant from roofing. Clean and reseal if needed with Dicor self leveling and get back out on the road. Travel safely, Hank

[wiredgeorge]

If you attempt to remove all that Dicor, I am pretty sure damage to the roof membrane will occur; clean and then touch up with more Dicor.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by jmorse62

Does anyone have a picture of what the front portion of a Keystone roof should look like? After getting home and checking it closer it looks like there is a trim strip missing that would hold down that from metal end.

Here is a detail photo of what the factory caulk joint on one end my front cap looked like at one year old.

It's obvious that the factory left pretty significant voids in it, which I ended up filling a couple months ago. I discovered the joint was in trouble when I found bright orange stains at the top of my mattress, from water drips filtered through the cabinet's wood stain.

There are no metal trim strips.

[roadglide]

Originally Posted by skids

Roadglide, You keep that up and you will end up with an Airstream camper!

Lol it’s life time Guaranteed not to rip if my roof decided To balloon some place different it’s getting aluminum armor plate. I can’t imagine spending $20,000 on a 5 year old camper roof. I don’t believe you can recoup your money with Depreciation on a trailer . I have Solar panels bolted to the aluminum I’m not afraid to walk on that part of the roof.

[CrazyCain]

Originally Posted by hankpage

If it were mine I would just clean it real good. This side looks good. Unless there is a bonding problem you will be opening a BIG can of worms any time you try to remove old sealant from roofing. Clean and reseal if needed with Dicor self leveling and get back out on the road. Travel safely, Hank

Thanks Hank, I'll do exactly that.

[CrazyCain]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

If you attempt to remove all that Dicor, I am pretty sure damage to the roof membrane will occur; clean and then touch up with more Dicor.

Yep. Great advice, thanks wiredgeorge, appreciate the advice.

[jmorse62]

Thanks for all the input on this. I will update and send some pics once insurance decides if they want to cover it.

[MN Roger]

New roof. Can’t piece it together. You can see if it’s covered under warranty, but regardless, they’ll fight you hard on it.