Towing Outback 250RS

[dakota33]

My tow vehicle is a 2008 Platinum Ed. Toyota Sequoia 5.7 V8 with towing package. Towing capacity is 8800, GCWR is 16000 and GVWR is 7300. I am about to purchase an 2012 Outback 250RS. The weight on the door is 5980, and the length is 27'6". The dealer recommends a SwayPro from Blue Ox and Prodigy Brake controller. It seems to be well within my towing capacity, and the WD and sway should be plenty for the 27'. However, I would love to here from some experienced campers to see if this looks like a good setup, or what they would change. Thanks.

[f6bits]

I’m not seeing how the SwayPro controls sway. I’ve watched their videos, and all they say is that their brackets surround the chain, but there are still several links free to swing. I really like my Equalizer hitch for its simplicity, but the Reese Dual Cam looks to work better for sway control.

As for weight, don’t forget about cargo in the trailer, so its gross weight is closer to 7500 lbs, still way below your capacity. Tongue weight is 650 unloaded, so expect it to up at least another hundred once you load up and go camping.

From what I’ve read, the Sequoia is just over 6000 lbs empty, which leaves you about a thousand lbs. for people, gas, some cargo, and the tongue weight. Minus tongue weight leaves you 450 lbs for passengers and fuel, and that’s cutting it really close.

Even though you’re within towing capacity, it’s the hitch weight that kills it for SUVs and their cargo capacity. I wouldn’t be surprised if the trailer pushes you over your rear axle weight rating, even with a weight distributing hitch.

I just don’t see how a manufacturer can claim a tow rating where the minimum 10% trailer weight on the hitch leaves you with an unrealistic cargo capacity in an SUV. In your case, about 320 lbs. for passengers and fuel. 12.5% of that trailer weight won’t even let you fill up your tank, let alone have someone *in* the vehicle.

[SteveC7010]

Scott's assessment is pretty much right on. The rear axle limit on the Sequoia (and most other SUV's) is a lot less than people expect it to be, and it limits towing capabilities severely.

SUV's like your Sequoia have good "pull" ratings, but that can only be applied to boats and similar trailers where there is minimal tongue weight to contend with. Travel trailers need that 12 to 15% tongue weight or there will be all kinds of sway and weight problems on the road.

The GVWR for that trailer is about the max that I am comfortable with for 1/2 ton pickups which have much better rear axle weight ratings than comparable SUV's. And you will find that there are a lot of folks that prefer to tow trailers in that weight range with 3/4 ton trucks. There are several extensive threads here on that topic and they make excellent reading.

[dakota33]

Guys, thanks for the info. I have been nervous about the TV from the start. We started this process a few months ago looking at 35 footers with UVW's of around 7400. Obviously dealers telling us we could tow them fine. However, research on this site and others have showed me otherwise. That's why we have come way down on the weight and length. The front GAWR is 4000 and the rear is 4280 on the TV. If I went with the dual cam Reese 800\10000 or 1200\12000 do you think it would be a safe config? The wheel base on the TV is 122" which means I can technically tow a 23' trailer without any sway control. The DC reese should take care of the rest. Also, will it distribute the weight better to help me with the max'd out hitch weight? Thanks again.

[f6bits]

I’ve put my setup on the scale and I know that my rear is near max when fully loaded, so I’m careful about how I load. And that’s with weight distribution properly set up.

I don’t know your unloaded rear axle weight, but as I said above, real world weights are cutting it pretty close on your cargo capacity of the Sequoia.

As far as sway control, you’re a little ahead of the game when compared to me, but my setup is rotten in heavy winds. I do well under most conditions, except when I stupidly went through a windy valley. I’ll never do that again. As long as you’re careful about driving conditions, you’ll do ok. The Reese 1200 is better since the 800 won’t be enough for a fully and properly loaded trailer.

Overall, you’ll be like me…cutting it close and not enjoying it as much as you could. Until I get a better tow vehicle, I’m staying close to home where it’s flat and not windy.

Before you proceed, hit the scales and find out what your front axle and whole vehicle and rear axle weigh. Yeah, you can calculate one from the others, but get three measurements so you can do some error checking. It’ll be worth the $20 or so to use a public scale. If you do the trailer, load up and hit the scales again.

[chuck&gail]

Sounds similar to my TT.

BUT

Your tongue weight spec on your TV is likely 880#. So if you want 13% of the FULLY LOADED TT weight on the tongue, about the minimum I've seen recommended, with 15% mentioned a lot, your max loaded TT weight is 6770#. Your TT is 5980# BEFORE you add stuff. So, can you add only 790# of stuff? Most can't. I guess if just you in TV, no extras in TV, no water in TT, always empty tanks before travel, and l,oad REALLY carefully, you might maker it.

We just make it with our Expedition.

1000# Equalizer is plenty as you should not exceed 880# on it anyway.

As others say, watch your rear GAWR. Our GAWR spec is 4250# and it took careful tweaking to keep in spec. You will need to tweak also.

Personally I think you are getting in over your head with that TV/TT combo.