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Old 05-03-2021, 04:20 PM   #1
Monty0814
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Door Holder?

Hope everyone is doing well. We just had our 3rd weekend camping trip sonce getting our new 5th wheel. Working out the kinks and have a small list for the dealer when I take it in for a 60 day service trip.

On two of our trips, it was a bit windy and the door would slam shut. I have an almost 6 year old who is in/out and once he was on the stairs when a gust came (luckily I was standing there to stop him from getting smacked. Anyone install some type of door holder? I did some searches and couldn’t find a post on it so sorry if this has already been tackled.

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Old 05-03-2021, 04:36 PM   #2
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It just so happens that I dealt with this just a week ago. My entry door had a gas piston that held it open 90°. I replaced my triple fold out steps with a MorRyde StepAbove which required that I removed the piston. I picked up a cheap plastic T-bar latch to mount to the door and the side of the camper. I asked the group for attachment suggestions and someone suggested a magnetic door catch instead. I didn’t like the looks of any until I found these little beauties: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N63U2UZ...p_mob_ap_share
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Old 05-03-2021, 04:41 PM   #3
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There was a recent thread that recommended using the magnetic type door stops found at Lowe's or Home Depot. They will work to hold the door open "to a point" and then they will release the door. If you're trying to protect your son from being hit by a swinging door on a windy day, that type may not be what you're looking for. If it holds, you'd be OK, but if it let go, you've got an injured child....

As for "positive locking holders" there are two types, one is plastic the other is metal. Some people prefer the metal "because it doesn't break".... The problem is, since it doesn't break, it pulls out of the door or off the trailer sidewall, leaving holes or a bent door... Neither is as cheap to repair as the $5 door holder....

For that reason, I prefer the plastic door holder. It mounts on the trailer sidewall, just above the skirt/FILON molding and on the lower corner of the door. If the wind catches it, it'll hold but if someone grabs the door to close it, before tearing anything up, the plastic will break so the only thing damaged from "a gorilla attack" is the $5 plastic piece.

Here's one link to them on Amazon:

PLASTIC: https://www.amazon.com/Hamilton-Bowe...0088726&sr=8-2
METAL: https://www.amazon.com/Red-Hound-Aut...0088822&sr=8-3

I prefer the plastic
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Old 05-03-2021, 04:53 PM   #4
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Just to add to John’s post. The hole pattern is different on the plastic and metal ones. The plastic ones can be brittle, so if you start with a plastic and then try to change to metal you have more holes than you wanted.

And John: I can say from experience, those magnets hold a lot better than you think, but yeah they are not “positive” like you posted. I wonder if a pair (one at the bottom and one at the top) would suffice.
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:07 PM   #5
Monty0814
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Thank you all.... very much appreciated!

I need to do better searching the forum!
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Just to add to John’s post. The hole pattern is different on the plastic and metal ones. The plastic ones can be brittle, so if you start with a plastic and then try to change to metal you have more holes than you wanted.

And John: I can say from experience, those magnets hold a lot better than you think, but yeah they are not “positive” like you posted. I wonder if a pair (one at the bottom and one at the top) would suffice.
I don't know if two would provide the "safety net" to keep the door from blowing closed on a 6 year old. For us "old farts" it would just be a bruise and a mouth washed out with a bar of soap... For a child, if the magnet didn't hold, the result could be significantly more than an injured ego....

We had the "older style magnetic door stops" on our house in Louisiana. They worked great inside, acted as door stops as well as door keepers. On the exterior doors, if the wind was blowing, the doors would invariably slam shut at some point. Fingers in the door jamb or a kid standing in the doorway wouldn't be a happy event. The newer ones may be much better, IDK.

As for hole pattern, you're right, they are different. The plastic ones I've seen are smaller, so the hole pattern is smaller. If I wasn't sure which I wanted, I'd start with the plastic. If they don't work out, installing the metal one will "cover the holes from the plastic one, so they wouldn't be visible.
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:21 PM   #7
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This trailer has the friction type hinges. They're OK and we haven't had an issue yet but they make me nervous in high/gusty winds. I've had the T latches (plastic) before and they seemed very effective. If I was trying to make a secure setup for the door I believe I would use the plastic T locking device if I had small children. I have not looked at/into the magnetic locks but that might be a viable solution for an "old fart". I think I worry too much to use them if I had a little one running in and out.
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Just to add to John’s post. The hole pattern is different on the plastic and metal ones. The plastic ones can be brittle, so if you start with a plastic and then try to change to metal you have more holes than you wanted.

And John: I can say from experience, those magnets hold a lot better than you think, but yeah they are not “positive” like you posted. I wonder if a pair (one at the bottom and one at the top) would suffice.
The two magnet approach works great! As seen in the picture I posted, I added one to the bottom and a second just below the latch. I like them because they are small, low profile and really hold tight. I bought a set of the white plastic ones that John posted a picture of before I found the magnets and will keep them as a back-up or to use somewhere else.
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Old 05-04-2021, 04:29 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
This trailer has the friction type hinges. They're OK and we haven't had an issue yet but they make me nervous in high/gusty winds. I've had the T latches (plastic) before and they seemed very effective. If I was trying to make a secure setup for the door I believe I would use the plastic T locking device if I had small children. I have not looked at/into the magnetic locks but that might be a viable solution for an "old fart". I think I worry too much to use them if I had a little one running in and out.
Danny this is off the subject but something I wanted to mention. We also have the friction type hinge. The door got where it wouldn't latch properly unless you firmly slammed the door. I keep trying to adjust and modify the latch, to no avail. I eventually realized it was the friction hinge providing too much resistance. I sprayed the hinges with a small amount of silicon lubricant and it solved the problem while still holding the door open in a breeze.
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Old 05-04-2021, 05:44 AM   #10
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Danny this is off the subject but something I wanted to mention. We also have the friction type hinge. The door got where it wouldn't latch properly unless you firmly slammed the door. I keep trying to adjust and modify the latch, to no avail. I eventually realized it was the friction hinge providing too much resistance. I sprayed the hinges with a small amount of silicon lubricant and it solved the problem while still holding the door open in a breeze.

Thanks Woody. We've not encountered that yet but I have certainly thought about it. I'll keep your suggestion in mind.
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Old 05-04-2021, 07:11 AM   #11
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Just to add to John’s post. The hole pattern is different on the plastic and metal ones. The plastic ones can be brittle, so if you start with a plastic and then try to change to metal you have more holes than you wanted.

And John: I can say from experience, those magnets hold a lot better than you think, but yeah they are not “positive” like you posted. I wonder if a pair (one at the bottom and one at the top) would suffice.
To add to Chuck's comment, not all of the plastic T latches use the same screw pattern. I had to replace one of mine on my '12 Raptor and the replacement looked the same in the store, but the holes were about 1/8" further apart in each direction. Had to drill out the new latch base to make it fit my existing screw holes.

Just to be safe, take your old one with you if you're purchasing at a RV store.
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Old 05-04-2021, 07:52 AM   #12
koda57
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I loosened my friction hinges to take the stress off the door and frame. Lubrications only worked temporary for me after trying different types. There are 4 friction points, 2 on the upper hinge and 2 on the lower hinge. Used various size screw drivers and tapped with a hammer to spread the gaps that creates the friction on the pin. The constant flexing of the door and frame isn't going be good long term(my opinion). In the thought process of installing a T latch. Trying to find the right sealant to use behind the T latch to help glue it to the sidewall and door, to take the pressure off the mounting screws.
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Old 05-04-2021, 11:01 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
There was a recent thread that recommended using the magnetic type door stops found at Lowe's or Home Depot. They will work to hold the door open "to a point" and then they will release the door. If you're trying to protect your son from being hit by a swinging door on a windy day, that type may not be what you're looking for. If it holds, you'd be OK, but if it let go, you've got an injured child....

As for "positive locking holders" there are two types, one is plastic the other is metal. Some people prefer the metal "because it doesn't break".... The problem is, since it doesn't break, it pulls out of the door or off the trailer sidewall, leaving holes or a bent door... Neither is as cheap to repair as the $5 door holder....

For that reason, I prefer the plastic door holder. It mounts on the trailer sidewall, just above the skirt/FILON molding and on the lower corner of the door. If the wind catches it, it'll hold but if someone grabs the door to close it, before tearing anything up, the plastic will break so the only thing damaged from "a gorilla attack" is the $5 plastic piece.

Here's one link to them on Amazon:

PLASTIC: https://www.amazon.com/Hamilton-Bowe...0088726&sr=8-2
METAL: https://www.amazon.com/Red-Hound-Aut...0088822&sr=8-3

I prefer the plastic
I installed the stainless one... I have the tension hinges on the door, but they don't work well when the wind is strong..
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Old 05-05-2021, 06:13 AM   #14
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I have a small plastic right angled tab-slot holder on my Aspen Trail 17BH that holds the door open at a 90º angle to clear the awning mechanism. Any further open and it will hit the awning.

The door holder is mounted very close to the door hinge, so a little wind puts a lot of load on it. The arm has already broken three times (in a few months of brand new TT ownership, yet to go on a trip with it) and the screws that go into the door had stripped threads in the door from the factory. I already 3D printed a bunch of spares.



I'm going to make a door holder that is a long arm (made from small dia PVC pipe) with a 3D printed hinge, surface mount, and door edge gripper. When not used, the bar will fold flat against the side of the TT and stay put with a broom grip.

I will post pictures here when I finish it.
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Old 05-05-2021, 07:57 AM   #15
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Has anybody used a sealant that has a good adhesion properties but isn't permanent. I want to use it on the stainless T latch to bond it to the door filon panel before installing the mounting screws. 3m has a product 4200, but it sounds like it might be to aggressive of a bond. It's considered not to be a permanent sealant. Too many products out there and just looking for products that people have used. Thanks
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Old 05-05-2021, 08:28 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by koda57 View Post
Has anybody used a sealant that has a good adhesion properties but isn't permanent. I want to use it on the stainless T latch to bond it to the door filon panel before installing the mounting screws. 3m has a product 4200, but it sounds like it might be to aggressive of a bond. It's considered not to be a permanent sealant. Too many products out there and just looking for products that people have used. Thanks
The "problem" with sealants/adhesives is that they bond to the "top surface of the mounting platform" not to the underlying substrate that provides the majority of strength to the structure....

What that means "in English" is that anything you glue to the FILON is only attached "to the FILON"... Since the FILON is glued to the styrofoam core of the wall, essentially, you're gluing a steel mount that's going to get a significant pull force every time the door is moved to a piece of styrofoam...

In my opinion, that's like building a house on sand rather than on a supporting foundation.

Gluing the mount on the trailer sidewall is no more than gluing it to a 1/8" piece of fiberglass. It might hold for a week, it might hold for a year, but sooner or later, someone is going to "jerk on the door with the holder latched to the door" and either the adhesive will give or the FILON will give way from the styrofoam core, starting the "delamination process" on that sidewall...
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Old 05-05-2021, 09:12 AM   #17
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The "problem" with sealants/adhesives is that they bond to the "top surface of the mounting platform" not to the underlying substrate that provides the majority of strength to the structure....

What that means "in English" is that anything you glue to the FILON is only attached "to the FILON"... Since the FILON is glued to the styrofoam core of the wall, essentially, you're gluing a steel mount that's going to get a significant pull force every time the door is moved to a piece of styrofoam...

In my opinion, that's like building a house on sand rather than on a supporting foundation.

Gluing the mount on the trailer sidewall is no more than gluing it to a 1/8" piece of fiberglass. It might hold for a week, it might hold for a year, but sooner or later, someone is going to "jerk on the door with the holder latched to the door" and either the adhesive will give or the FILON will give way from the styrofoam core, starting the "delamination process" on that sidewall...

I think koda is just looking for something to seal between the mount and the door to keep moisture from chasing the screw threads and to provide some bonus retention to help keep the screw threads from stripping out. My factory T-latch has some super sticky black 'putty' between it and the door. I believe it is butyl putty/tape and it is similar in consistency to 'duct seal' used by electricians. That might work if he is looking to seal between the T-latch and the wall/door, but it's not a superb adhesive.

Butyl Tape
https://www.amazon.com/Colorimetrics.../dp/B00GMSUF22

Duct Seal
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-1-...-601/300496860
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Old 05-05-2021, 09:25 AM   #18
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I have a small plastic right angled tab-slot holder on my Aspen Trail 17BH that holds the door open at a 90º angle to clear the awning mechanism. Any further open and it will hit the awning.

The door holder is mounted very close to the door hinge, so a little wind puts a lot of load on it. The arm has already broken three times (in a few months of brand new TT ownership, yet to go on a trip with it) and the screws that go into the door had stripped threads in the door from the factory. I'm going to make a door holder that is a long arm (made from small dia PVC pipe) with a 3D printed hinge, surface mount, and door edge gripper. When not used, the bar will fold flat against the side of the TT and stay put with a broom grip.

I will post pictures here when I finish it.
Here's the 3D printed heim joint (ball & socket joint) that jams into the end of the PVC pipe and will be secured in place with glue and a couple of screws. The ball swivels around nicely without any slop. I printed the ball and socket all at once with a .015" gap between them.


I'm printing the hinge that will mount to the side of the TT now. I will print a T-latch that sticks into the other end of the PVC pipe the same way. Then I will relocate the T-latch receptacle to the outside edge of the door. Swing the prop up and drop it into the T-latch receptacle to hold the door open. Swing the PVC pipe down and snap the lower end into a broom clip for transit.
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Old 05-05-2021, 09:44 AM   #19
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Here's the 3D printed heim joint (ball & socket joint) that jams into the end of the PVC pipe and will be secured in place with glue and a couple of screws. The ball swivels around nicely without any slop. I printed the ball and socket all at once with a .015" gap between them.


I'm printing the hinge that will mount to the side of the TT now. I will print a T-latch that sticks into the other end of the PVC pipe the same way. Then I will relocate the T-latch receptacle to the outside edge of the door. Swing the prop up and drop it into the T-latch receptacle to hold the door open. Swing the PVC pipe down and snap the lower end into a broom clip for transit.
And here is the other end. I will print several of these as they will (intentionally) be the weak point. But it will still be infinitely stronger than what came with this TT. I've also attached an image of the finished assembly (in CAD).
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Old 05-05-2021, 10:08 AM   #20
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I understand the foundation issue for mounting the bracket to the door and the possibility of the things that might go wrong. Just looking for adhesive sealants that people have used to prevent water migration and some adhesive properties.
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