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08-23-2014, 03:48 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 287
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Fridge not working on AC...
Our Premier 31BHPR has an Atwood HE-0801 Refrigerator that only seems to be working on Gas. When set to AC the check light comes on and it beeps every 2 seconds. Error code in the manual says "No AC". When set to Auto, it switches over to Gas.
- We're plugged into shore power.
- I checked all the circuit breakers.
- There is 120V at the outlet the fridge is plugged into.
- I checked the voltage on the control board and that has 120V too.
- Even checked the three fuses on the control board and they all are good.
- 12V supply into the control board is good as well (if it weren't, then my understanding is that the fridge wouldn't work on Gas either).
We just pulled it out of storage and are prepping for three nights of camping starting tomorrow. Obviously I can run it on propane, but would prefer to use the campground's AC vs. my propane.
Any suggestions? Hidden switches to look for...???
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08-23-2014, 04:09 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: missouri
Posts: 171
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Mine just did the same thing. I was stumpted until I came upon my GCFI reset button. Click, and all was well. Make sure you didn't 'trip' your breaker in your home also. Good Luck.
__________________
2010 Fusion 403
2011 Chevy 2500 6.6 diesel with Allison trany
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08-23-2014, 04:41 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellydog98
Mine just did the same thing. I was stumpted until I came upon my GCFI reset button. Click, and all was well. Make sure you didn't 'trip' your breaker in your home also. Good Luck.
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Where was the GFCI button? AFAIK, our trailer only has one GFCI and that is in the bathroom. I did check that as well (tripped it and then reset, it was not tripped when I checked it). Unless there is a GFCI somehow incorporated into the fridge, that shouldn't be the problem since I have 120 V on the control board on the back of the fridge.
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08-24-2014, 05:11 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: missouri
Posts: 171
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This may sound silly, but are you sure the button over fridge is on auto, and not gas? That said, does the light come on when door is open? I have read where your particular rig has had trouble with the wiring past the plug. Something about the red, HOT, wire. However, if the light comes on in the fridge then you might be looking at warranty repair.
__________________
2010 Fusion 403
2011 Chevy 2500 6.6 diesel with Allison trany
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08-24-2014, 06:38 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellydog98
This may sound silly, but are you sure the button over fridge is on auto, and not gas? That said, does the light come on when door is open? I have read where your particular rig has had trouble with the wiring past the plug. Something about the red, HOT, wire. However, if the light comes on in the fridge then you might be looking at warranty repair.
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I've changed it from Auto to AC to Gas back to AC back to Auto.
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08-24-2014, 06:44 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: missouri
Posts: 171
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Does the light come on in the fridge when plugged in? Take an extension cord from your house and plug the fridge directly into it. Sorry, but these things take time to diagnose.
__________________
2010 Fusion 403
2011 Chevy 2500 6.6 diesel with Allison trany
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08-24-2014, 07:12 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellydog98
Does the light come on in the fridge when plugged in? Take an extension cord from your house and plug the fridge directly into it. Sorry, but these things take time to diagnose.
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I can give it a try, but... did you read the part where I tested the outlet that the fridge is plugged into? It has 120 volts. I also tested on the control board. 120 volts.
Yes, the 12V LED light inside the fridge comes on when the door is opened.
Tried plugging fridge in directly to household outlet, same result.
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08-24-2014, 07:27 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Upland, CA
Posts: 425
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You have done everything I would have done to check it out. There is only one thing left, the control board.
Question, you said you had 110v, but how about 12v? it uses 12v at the board, that is also used while in gas mode.
__________________
2015 Four Winds Super C, Class C Motorhome
4 - 100w mono solar panels with MPPT40 to charge four 6v batteries with 440amp hours.
Progressive Industries HW50c surge protector
1800 / 3600 inverter with auto transfer switch,
The bosses: My wife and two Labradoddles 80 lbs each
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08-24-2014, 07:35 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: missouri
Posts: 171
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Yes, I knew you were getting 120 to the plug, but using the extension cord to see if it worked would tell us that the problem was either after the cord or before the cord. So if I'm understanding you correctly, when plugged in and properly placed on AC, the refridge continues to seek ingniting via gas. Is this correct?
__________________
2010 Fusion 403
2011 Chevy 2500 6.6 diesel with Allison trany
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08-24-2014, 07:51 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellydog98
Yes, I knew you were getting 120 to the plug, but using the extension cord to see if it worked would tell us that the problem was either after the cord or before the cord. So if I'm understanding you correctly, when plugged in and properly placed on AC, the refridge continues to seek ingniting via gas. Is this correct?
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Yup, I have 120 at the outlet. And after the plug on the fridge control board. Yes, when on AC (and Auto) the fridge switches to and runs on gas. When on AC and set to AC only, the Check light comes on and it beeps every 2 seconds.
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08-24-2014, 08:00 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: missouri
Posts: 171
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Well, it figures then that it's past the plug and somewhere between the cord and the AC switch. Don't know how you are at electronics, but with a volt meter and alittle time following the current you should be able to diagnose it yourself. Please be aware, 120volts will change your mind if you aren't careful. So now you have a place to start looking or find that person who knows how to work the circut and 'search' for the issue. Who know's, maybe just a bad switch at the AC site.
__________________
2010 Fusion 403
2011 Chevy 2500 6.6 diesel with Allison trany
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08-24-2014, 08:16 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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Here is a link to many RV service manuals on most RV appliances. Unfortunately, the Atwood Helium refrigerator is too "new" and the service manual is not available. However there are a number of other manuals that might give you some guidelines on troubleshooting the refrigerator. Many of the systems function the same as the Atwood, so you might find some help here.
Even if you don't, the other appliances in your RV are probably listed. Having access to the service manual (not the owner's manual) is a great way to troubleshoot and maintain your appliances without relying on the dealership to put you on the waiting list.
Here's the link: http://bryantrv.com/docs.html
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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08-24-2014, 08:22 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyCamperMN
Our Premier 31BHPR has an Atwood HE-0801 Refrigerator that only seems to be working on Gas. When set to AC the check light comes on and it beeps every 2 seconds. Error code in the manual says "No AC". When set to Auto, it switches over to Gas.
- We're plugged into shore power.
- I checked all the circuit breakers.
- There is 120V at the outlet the fridge is plugged into.
- I checked the voltage on the control board and that has 120V too.
- Even checked the three fuses on the control board and they all are good.
- 12V supply into the control board is good as well (if it weren't, then my understanding is that the fridge wouldn't work on Gas either).
We just pulled it out of storage and are prepping for three nights of camping starting tomorrow. Obviously I can run it on propane, but would prefer to use the campground's AC vs. my propane.
Any suggestions? Hidden switches to look for...???
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According to the manual I downloaded the error code you stated means the door is not completely closed.. http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...r_Manual_8.pdf
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04-17-2021, 05:07 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Asheville
Posts: 1
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HappyCamperMN did you ever figure this out? Having this EXACT same problem that just started today. Been running AC forever, glad the gas actually works now that AC isn’t
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04-17-2021, 05:33 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowlaneseven
HappyCamperMN did you ever figure this out? Having this EXACT same problem that just started today. Been running AC forever, glad the gas actually works now that AC isn’t
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The original poster likely won't respond; hasn't been on the site since 10/2020. You might go to the UserCP and head to the signature area and create one with your year, make and model of camper and tow vehicle and then start a new thread. You will likely get more responses to your question and in-context answers.
__________________
wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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