Issues, Mods, and Updates to 2021 Aspen Trail 17BH

[Urbish]

I bought a brand new 2021 Aspen Trail 17BH a couple months ago. This is my first travel trailer, graduating out of the popup camper finally. I know these are slapped together as quickly and cheaply as possible and knew not to expect automotive quality, but I've found a lot of issues that were missed at the factory and my dealer didn't catch prior to delivery. They are as follows:

• Self-tapping screws that secure the propane tank bracket to the tongue were loose requiring 3-5 additional turns to make tight
• Rear roof vent unable to be fully closed due to twisted 'catch' that holds it in secured position
• Interior trim falling off around door
• Screen door has gaps at top corners ~1/4"
• Heavy roof caulk glob at front corner of roof did not adhere to the roof
• Screw puncture through vinyl roofing material above door (driven too far from inside the body)
• Circuit board on the water heater improperly installed, dangling from wires and hanging outside its enclosure
• Screws too numerous to count that were driven in and missed studs, making them completely ornamental
• Although there was a factory installed Winegard Air 360 antenna installed at the factory, the radio antenna was not connected to it and was found neatly coiled up behind the radio, hidden behind a cabinet backing panel
• Cabinet backing panels barely attached and unsupported so that any item in the storage cubby that leaned on the backing panel would break it loose
• Several loose crimp wire splices that fell apart when touched (positive lead at water pump, green wire at trailer tongue (right turn signal/brake light wire), and overhead light at sink)
• Completely unsealed hole through floor behind power center where 12V wires are routed
• Loose screws securing all window frames
• Entry door prop falling off (and flimsy design that broke during a slight breeze with door propped open)
• Incomplete caulking of shower surround
• Missed welds on frame extension leading to rear bumper (fully butt-welded all around on left side, one of 4 sides welded on the other)
• Flimsy front shelf that sagged severely with only a few lightweight items on it
• Spars under queen bed loose/flimsy with only a single screw in the center of each securing them in place
• Bouncy feeling inside since this model comes with only rear stabilizer jacks and the front is supported only by the tongue jack

This is not intended to be a complaint thread. But I will detail what I did to rectify each of these items and some items I 3D printed or fabricated to make it right. I intend to do some long distance travelling and don't want to be dealing with broken stuff when I should be enjoying camping! More to come...

[Urbish]

Most of these things were easily solved with a screwdriver, drill, crimpers & new butt splices, and a brad nailer.

For the saggy shelf, I printed an upper anchor and a bracket that holds onto the bottom of the center of the shelf. I used 1/16" aircraft cable, a couple of ferrules, and some heat shrink over the cut ends. It looks pretty nice and supports the shelf well.

[Urbish]

I measured and modeled the door prop. I printed 7 or 8 of these as I expect them to be a high replacement item.

[Urbish]

The front edge for the under-bed spars are not supported by anything except the single screw into the center of each. Not wanting to break through these, I modeled up some simple miniature joist hangers. The 6th one is just about to come off the printer now. They attach with two screws and cradle the spar, stabilizing it the process.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Urbish

I bought a brand new 2021 Aspen Trail 17BH a couple months ago. This is my first travel trailer, graduating out of the popup camper finally. I know these are slapped together as quickly and cheaply as possible and knew not to expect automotive quality, but I've found a lot of issues that were missed at the factory and my dealer didn't catch prior to delivery. They are as follows:

• Self-tapping screws that secure the propane tank bracket to the tongue were loose requiring 3-5 additional turns to make tight
• Rear roof vent unable to be fully closed due to twisted 'catch' that holds it in secured position
• Interior trim falling off around door
• Screen door has gaps at top corners ~1/4"
• Heavy roof caulk glob at front corner of roof did not adhere to the roof
• Screw puncture through vinyl roofing material above door (driven too far from inside the body)
• Circuit board on the water heater improperly installed, dangling from wires and hanging outside its enclosure
• Screws too numerous to count that were driven in and missed studs, making them completely ornamental
• Although there was a factory installed Winegard Air 360 antenna installed at the factory, the radio antenna was not connected to it and was found neatly coiled up behind the radio, hidden behind a cabinet backing panel
• Cabinet backing panels barely attached and unsupported so that any item in the storage cubby that leaned on the backing panel would break it loose
• Several loose crimp wire splices that fell apart when touched (positive lead at water pump, green wire at trailer tongue (right turn signal/brake light wire), and overhead light at sink)
• Completely unsealed hole through floor behind power center where 12V wires are routed
• Loose screws securing all window frames
• Entry door prop falling off (and flimsy design that broke during a slight breeze with door propped open)
• Incomplete caulking of shower surround
• Missed welds on frame extension leading to rear bumper (fully butt-welded all around on left side, one of 4 sides welded on the other)
• Flimsy front shelf that sagged severely with only a few lightweight items on it
• Spars under queen bed loose/flimsy with only a single screw in the center of each securing them in place
• Bouncy feeling inside since this model comes with only rear stabilizer jacks and the front is supported only by the tongue jack

This is not intended to be a complaint thread. But I will detail what I did to rectify each of these items and some items I 3D printed or fabricated to make it right. I intend to do some long distance travelling and don't want to be dealing with broken stuff when I should be enjoying camping! More to come...

Sounds like you took care of a lot of it....did anyone do a pdi on the trailer before signing?...I walked away from one fifth wheel because I saw some water damage and an active leak on a new unit.....3D printers are pretty neat

[Urbish]

I had a brief pre delivery inspection/walk through at the dealer and they claimed a thorough dealer prep (haha). But a lot of these issues were hidden behind panels that were screwed down. I didn't notice the screen door gap until I got home. I fully expected to spend a weekend 'making it right', but this is downright sloppy construction.

I would have gladly paid 10-15% more for a better build were that possible. So be it. There is nothing here that I am not comfortable tackling.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Urbish

I had a brief pre delivery inspection/walk through at the dealer and they claimed a thorough dealer prep (haha). But a lot of these issues were hidden behind panels that were screwed down. I didn't notice the screen door gap until I got home. I fully expected to spend a weekend 'making it right', but this is downright sloppy construction.

I would have gladly paid 10-15% more for a better build were that possible. So be it. There is nothing here that I am not comfortable tackling.

Yep I get it..it can be frustrating...it seems to me that rv’s are more like new home construction rather then buying a new car...when you have a house built there is always mistakes made and little things here and there that need to be tweaked...that’s why they have a walkthrough before turning the house over to the new owner... they create a punch list and correct everything to make everyone mutually happy in theory... on a bright note ..it’s great that you have the ability to fix everything yourself so you don’t end up at the back of a warranty line...
Life pro tip: if your buying something online or from a rv dealer. Try calling them before the purchase and ask about getting warranty work done on your fictitious unit...you can learn a lot about a company based on how they answer the after sales calls...
Major trailer online company (won’t mention) that will answer on the second ring when buying but put you on hold for 20-30 min if it’s a “question about a previous purchase”

[Urbish]

Hah, I went to a major chain dealer first when I started shopping. Was directed to them through the Costco RV program. They feigned ignorance as to the Costco RV program and refused to show me the Costco Members price sheet, then insisted that the purchase contract they had comically filled out in various colors of highlighter WAS the Costco Members price sheet. When I protested, they were adamant that I needed to leave a deposit then and there ('cuz we're gonna run out of these soon'). That was my cue to leave.

I went to my local small-town dealership instead.

[dutchmensport]

Congrats on the purchase of your new camper. After you finish rebuilding, sounds like you'll have a pretty good camper there. You have JUST learned the first rule of RV ownership! .... After purchasing the camper, the very first accessory you should purchase is a Robertson Head screw driver.

Again, congrats on the new camper!

[Urbish]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

After purchasing the camper, the very first accessory you should purchase is a Robertson Head screw driver.

Thanks. I have one that I found on the side of the road. It rode around in my popup for years and was indispensible. It now lives in the new TT and as you have surmised, has already gotten a lot of use.

[Urbish]

I installed the rest of my mini joist hangers under the front bunk last night and added a vertical 2X2 to support one of the flimsier spars that had a big knot through the middle of it. The front bunk is much more secure now!

The next step is to hinge the OSB board under the front bunk for easier access to the water tank, pump, and externally accessible storage compartment. Plus there was an inline fuse on the water pump. Why the heck did they put a fuse in a location that was only accessible by removing about 12 screws?

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Urbish

I installed the rest of my mini joist hangers under the front bunk last night and added a vertical 2X2 to support one of the flimsier spars that had a big knot through the middle of it. The front bunk is much more secure now!

The next step is to hinge the OSB board under the front bunk for easier access to the water tank, pump, and externally accessible storage compartment. Plus there was an inline fuse on the water pump. Why the heck did they put a fuse in a location that was only accessible by removing about 12 screws?

Maybe you could make a list of all the fuse locations and keep in your owners manual in case your like me and forget things after a year or so ...sometimes after a day or so

[Urbish]

Hah, maybe. It's a small TT and now that the lid is going to be hinged, it shouldn't take much effort to access or remember where it is. As a mechanical engineer with over 25 years of product design & development, some of the design decisions and fabrication methods offend my sensibilities!

[RamRod78]

Originally Posted by Urbish

I bought a brand new 2021 Aspen Trail 17BH a couple months ago. This is my first travel trailer, graduating out of the popup camper finally. I know these are slapped together as quickly and cheaply as possible and knew not to expect automotive quality, but I've found a lot of issues that were missed at the factory and my dealer didn't catch prior to delivery. They are as follows:

• Self-tapping screws that secure the propane tank bracket to the tongue were loose requiring 3-5 additional turns to make tight
• Rear roof vent unable to be fully closed due to twisted 'catch' that holds it in secured position
• Interior trim falling off around door
• Screen door has gaps at top corners ~1/4"
• Heavy roof caulk glob at front corner of roof did not adhere to the roof
• Screw puncture through vinyl roofing material above door (driven too far from inside the body)
• Circuit board on the water heater improperly installed, dangling from wires and hanging outside its enclosure
• Screws too numerous to count that were driven in and missed studs, making them completely ornamental
• Although there was a factory installed Winegard Air 360 antenna installed at the factory, the radio antenna was not connected to it and was found neatly coiled up behind the radio, hidden behind a cabinet backing panel
• Cabinet backing panels barely attached and unsupported so that any item in the storage cubby that leaned on the backing panel would break it loose
• Several loose crimp wire splices that fell apart when touched (positive lead at water pump, green wire at trailer tongue (right turn signal/brake light wire), and overhead light at sink)
• Completely unsealed hole through floor behind power center where 12V wires are routed
• Loose screws securing all window frames
• Entry door prop falling off (and flimsy design that broke during a slight breeze with door propped open)
• Incomplete caulking of shower surround
• Missed welds on frame extension leading to rear bumper (fully butt-welded all around on left side, one of 4 sides welded on the other)
• Flimsy front shelf that sagged severely with only a few lightweight items on it
• Spars under queen bed loose/flimsy with only a single screw in the center of each securing them in place
• Bouncy feeling inside since this model comes with only rear stabilizer jacks and the front is supported only by the tongue jack

This is not intended to be a complaint thread. But I will detail what I did to rectify each of these items and some items I 3D printed or fabricated to make it right. I intend to do some long distance travelling and don't want to be dealing with broken stuff when I should be enjoying camping! More to come...

I just picked up a new Hideout and can relate with some of these... Cosmetic screws/staples and loose wiring... I guess some of the crew hadn't had their coffee yet.

Thanks for the mention of the AM/FM antenna cable... I noticed the FM signal was poor, ill check the connection next time i'm out.

[Urbish]

I wanted to keep my trailer side 7-pin cable from ending up in the dirt/mud, so I 3D printed a bright green cap to go on it when it is disconnected from the TV.

[Urbish]

I have a couple of 12V fans that we used in our last camper and this one didn't come with any USB ports, so I bought and installed a 12V and USB power center and wired it to one of the unused 12V circuits at my power converter box. This has a volt meter and I wired it so that the USB ports and volt meter are switched. The other 12V sockets are always live (and fused at 15A).

[Urbish]

For whatever reason the 12V solar/trickle plug installed by the dealer at the tongue near the battery is gendered opposite my trickle charger and solar charge controller. I learned this when I plugged in my solar charge controller and let the smoke out immediately. I purchased a similar replacement solar charge controller and 3D printed a dandy holder/mount to keep it out of the weather while allowing air to pass by it for cooling. It hangs on the angle-iron at the battery tray when in use. I think I'll re-print it in a bright color so I don't forget it on there.

[Urbish]

The dinette table had no way of securing it in place for transport. I learned this after I towed the TT home from the dealership and it slid off the black pucks in the dinette and rattled around in the back all the way home, damaging trim in the process. Luckily it didn't hit the glass-faced fake fireplace directly opposite the dinette.

I decided the back wall for the front dinette seat was a good spot to stow the table. I bought a snap kit with hammer-on buttons and screw-in snap bases. I attached two snap bases to the table and made two snap straps from an old nylon sleeping bag compression strap. I screwed those to the back wall of the dinette directly above the table.

I 3D printed two guides that were screwed to the floor and one block that attaches to the back of the dinette. The guides are tapered to ease sliding it into place. Rock the table slightly forward, slide it into place, pull tight against the back wall of the dinette and secure with the snap straps. The block keeps it snug against the wall and it can't fall out unless both straps come unsnapped and the top falls forward. Since the queen bed is in close proximity, the mattress will help keep it in place should the snaps fail.

[Urbish]

I noticed that the top of corners of the screen door had about a 1/2" gap when the screen door was closed. I tried adjusting the door but couldn't close the gap with adjustments alone. I also took 10 minutes and actually tightened every screw that holds the door together since they were all a couple of turns or more from actually being tight. I bought some super squishy self adhesive weather stripping and added it to the upper radii of the door itself. Now between the weatherstripping on the door frame and what I added to the door, I have eliminated a mosquito vector.

[Urbish]

The TT came with three remote controls. I considered sticking velcro to the backs and sticking them on the wall somewhere. I decided instead to 3D print a dandy wall caddy and mounted it just inside the door.