Originally Posted by jasin1
I’m having a hard time letting this one go
I can totally accept the mistake theory BUT lol why on earth did it wait 5 years to rear it’s ugly head? Something must have changed and I’m betting it’s the motor on its last legs or slide binding. I have the curse of not accepting random unanswered problems.. now maybe the wire connectors are corroded causing low voltage and high amps to the motor ..nope you replaced the wire and it still blew the fuse . I dunno I’m still thinking it’s the motor......
I’m gonna need you to send it to me if you don’t mind to check it out....I will have it back to you in short order ...it’s gonna bother me
Haha...You have no idea how many sleepless nights I've had over this problem. I'm a mechanic by trade. I joined the Marines right out high school in 1978 and I scored very high on the mechanical and electrical test and they put me right into Heavy Equipment Mechanic school, or for those in the military, a 1341 MOS.
I spent two and half years in a 3rd echelon shop where we rebuilt 71 series GMC diesel engines, rewired heavy equipment, generators, rebuilt hydraulics, tuned and troubleshot everything and anything you can imagine.
After I was discharged I worked at an equipment rental yard where I wrenched on every know mechanical beast known to man. haha Then I became self employed and owned and worked on my own trucks for my dairy business. Did this for 15 years and I've never taken my car or trucks to the shop unless I just plain didn't want to fix it myself.
Long story short, I'm 61 years old and I still wrench on everything I can get my hands on, unless, I don't want to deal with the problem myself, which is usually because of a time constraint or my garage doesn't have a lift.
And the number one thing I learned way back in Trade School was troubleshooting. This is the most devious part in the mechanics World of fixing things, as even the best can be stumped. But always start from the bottom up. If the car dies, check to see if you've run out of gas. Sounds dumb, but you'd be surprised how many people replace a fuel pump when that wasn't the problem.
So, I entered this dilemma with over 40 years of mechanical experience, and I will admit, I'm still stumped over the low voltage hot lead that went to the switch. More so because that hot lead still reads a low voltage reading even after being unhooked from the 30 amp auto reset breaker.
People have asked me, "Is it the right wire?" It's the ONLY purple 30 amp wire in my entire RV. It's also the wire that matches what's in the wiring schematic from Lippert Components. Purple at the switch, purple at the 30 amp breaker.
I believe there is a connection that I cannot see (no telling where it is) that splits away somewhere in the middle, sending a low voltage reading to the switch. It has to be separated because I don't get a low voltage reading at the other end, or where it connects to the 30 amp breaker. The reason I say this is with the wire being disconnected from power, continuity is lost and the wire should be dead on both ends. But it's not. If this is the case, I should get that low voltage reading at both ends if one is hot.
And I really believe this is where my problem with the slide is. This junction, this internal switch, whatever is in there, it is sending electricity to one side of the circuit, but not enough to power the slide. And it lives without the 30 amp breaker connection.
If it was a short, it would blow the fuse or torch the wires. If it's connected to another appliance or lights in my RV then I should see the compromise if I were to use that component at large. But I've checked every single electrical component that uses 12 volts from the battery and they ALL work perfect.
This is why I ended up running my own wire. It was my last and most tedious resort. And when the 15 amp fuse blew on my own independent wire, I thought to myself, this might be why I have that low voltage reading at the switch on the old wire. There is a road block on my electric current in the factory wire, which may have prevented the 15 amp fuse from blowing.
And just to let you know, I went home at lunch today and tested my slide out again. It's never worked better. Quiet, smooth, in both directions.