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Old 03-07-2021, 06:19 AM   #101
joninthout
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: PALM HARBOR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikec557 View Post
They weren't cheap. They're sold in different stud sizes. I chose 5/16 because that's what most of my other connections needed. About $39.


https://www.amazon.com/Black-Power-D...ical+bu&sr=8-4
So here is my current start of my setup for Solar and Inverter. As you can see, I'm using some or most of the ideas from this thread to get my install started. I still need to purchase the SCC, some 8ga wire, 6ga wire, and another 30amp breaker. The inverter is a auto switch over at 1200 watts.

I also want to note that my camper came with a residential fridge that is already connected to an inverter somewhere in the camper. It's on a 20amp breaker in the fuse panel and the light inside the fridge is on when disconnected from Shore Power. I know it drains the battery when at my last outing the camp site at Stone Mountain in Atlanta lost power due to a transformer going out. The camp host told me the power outage was due to a couple of geese. Not sure if they lived.

Anyway, I only had the stock 65amp/hr battery at the time and had to shut down everything during the outage to keep the heat going (it was about 32 degrees the two weeks I was out there) and the fridge. That's when I decided to get two 100 amp/hr batteries and are now wired in parallel.

Have any of you actually taken the wood panel off from the basement that conceals all of the wiring behind it? Is it a pain in butt?

I would rather route power out to the battery from the basement without having to cut holes in my basement floor. Maybe if I took off the wood panel, I could figure out where the rest of the wiring goes out to the tongue.

The last picture is my plan...
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Old 03-07-2021, 09:48 AM   #102
mikec557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joninthout View Post
So here is my current start of my setup for Solar and Inverter...

Have any of you actually taken the wood panel off from the basement that conceals all of the wiring behind it? Is it a pain in butt?

I would rather route power out to the battery from the basement without having to cut holes in my basement floor. Maybe if I took off the wood panel, I could figure out where the rest of the wiring goes out to the tongue.

The last picture is my plan...
Just a couple ideas about where the stock inverter for the fridge is located. At first I was thinking that fridges are generally located near the breaker/fuse panel inside the RV and that they may have screwed it to the floor right behind the breaker/fuse panel. That's where they have put the WFCO charger/converter on a couple of my RV trailer experiences. Its a good dead air space that they might use.

But then I thought. The longer 12vdc the distance from the battery to the inverter is killer. Unlike the AC line (which does have "some" voltage drop with distance) the DC line drops quickly and requires much larger wires from battery to inverter to prevent it. So "logically" they would not put the stock inverter near the fridge. They'd put it near the batteries. Then run romex, the "longer wires" to the fridge, because romex is much cheaper than larger 12vdc cabling. Soooo, all that said, I'd look for the stock converter up front. Maybe under the front bed somewhere.

In my two Keystone Cougar trailers experiences, the front wall of the pass through is not removable. The aluminum framing that supports the bed above it is screwed onto that front wall piece, which is itself only 1/8 inch luan wood. It even tucks down below the point where my floor butts up to it. I can't say if your Bullet is built the same way, but I'd put my money on the bet that it is.

If I can load these pictures right, the first three are pics of my TT. You can see a trim piece on the floor which hides the gap of the front pass through wall going down in front of the floor. And another trim piece hiding the gap between the driver side wall of the TT and the front wall, also indicating the front wall luan extends beyound the side wall surface. The third one is a close up the the metal "conduit" that they punch though the 1in-square frame aluminum tubing. They used those to run the wire through the middle of the wall thickness. That is between the outer skin and inner skin of the front cap/wall.

The 4th and 5th pics are from a TT on the Camping World sales lot. They show factory installed 2ga wire running from the battery to the inverter. I think it could be done during the right stage of construction of the TT. You can see that there's about a 1/2 inch gap between the bottom of the front cap/wall and the steel cross member on the frame. I tried to fish a wire up through that same gap on my TT but there was just too much slope and unseeable obstructions. Yet clearly they ran the 2ga up through there and out through the plastic clam shell on the inside wall of the pass through. I couldn't tell if there was a clear path or if they used short metal conduits in the thickness of the wall like you see in one of my first three pics.

I know there is a mess of wires behind that front wall, but I just could not find a way into mine.
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2020 Cougar 26RBSWE TT
2019 Grand Design Reflection 29RS fifth wheel (Sold)
2018 Cougar Half-Ton 24RBSWE TT (Sold)
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Old 03-10-2021, 01:41 PM   #103
joninthout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikec557 View Post
Just a couple ideas about where the stock inverter for the fridge is located. At first I was thinking that fridges are generally located near the breaker/fuse panel inside the RV and that they may have screwed it to the floor right behind the breaker/fuse panel. That's where they have put the WFCO charger/converter on a couple of my RV trailer experiences. Its a good dead air space that they might use.

But then I thought. The longer 12vdc the distance from the battery to the inverter is killer. Unlike the AC line (which does have "some" voltage drop with distance) the DC line drops quickly and requires much larger wires from battery to inverter to prevent it. So "logically" they would not put the stock inverter near the fridge. They'd put it near the batteries. Then run romex, the "longer wires" to the fridge, because romex is much cheaper than larger 12vdc cabling. Soooo, all that said, I'd look for the stock converter up front. Maybe under the front bed somewhere.

In my two Keystone Cougar trailers experiences, the front wall of the pass through is not removable. The aluminum framing that supports the bed above it is screwed onto that front wall piece, which is itself only 1/8 inch luan wood. It even tucks down below the point where my floor butts up to it. I can't say if your Bullet is built the same way, but I'd put my money on the bet that it is.
Yes, the front wall of the pass through is not removable and I wish I could see behind there to run cables for the solar glad hook up. Speaking of solar, I tested out my 136watt Zamp panel I've been using on my previous trailer and it works! I hooked it up to the front tongue port (which is definitely not a Zamp port) and had to use a little elbow grease to get the SAE plugged in. But, I got a reading and let it charge the batteries for about a half hour. No sign of battery consumption while the residential fridge was running.

I couldn't find where the fridge inverter is. I think it is next to the fridge behind a panel I can't get to easily. It's not in the bedroom nor is it up front. I did inspect the battery switch and it has 6 or 8 awg wire running into the floor from behind the water station box. I'm still thinking of tapping my auto switch over inverter to it. Just need to find a way to run a ground wire.

Anyway, we are getting ready for a trip so I'll get back to the inverter and roof-top solar thing when we get back. Onward...
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Old 03-11-2021, 01:59 AM   #104
joninthout
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Quick update, the residential fridge on our 273BHS is a GE and only runs on 12volt power. No inverter needed.
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Old 04-21-2021, 05:06 PM   #105
Kevin J
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Not a project I intend to take on any time soon but here are some photos of solar prep for a 2021 bullet 250bhs in the front pass-through.

The white cable is a loop.
The black and red end in the pass through.

Questions.

1. What are the 3 colour wires in the top left? (second photo. Purple, white, pink). I will check the keystone wiring.

2. Was there any consensus on how to run a cable through to the battery from the front pass through?

Thanks all.
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Old 04-21-2021, 05:32 PM   #106
mikec557
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Wandering the Country
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin J View Post
Not a project I intend to take on any time soon but here are some photos of solar prep for a 2021 bullet 250bhs in the front pass-through.

The white cable is a loop.
The black and red end in the pass through.

Questions.

1. What are the 3 colour wires in the top left? (second photo. Purple, white, pink). I will check the keystone wiring.

2. Was there any consensus on how to run a cable through to the battery from the front pass through?

Thanks all.
The purple, white and pink, I don't know. They were not visible in my 2020 26RBSWE.

My comment below refers to the 2ga wire I had to run for the inverter. The factory actually ran 8ga wire for the solar charge controller (SCC) from my pass-through, down through the front wall thickness, but failed to leave a loop of slack. So I had to abandon that wire set and design a way for the SCC to feed back to the batteries by using the 2ga. In your 2nd picture it looks like the factory didn't run any 8ga wire out to the battery. The result is about identical to my useless lack of slack. However you decide to run the larger cable (my 2ga) from your battery to inverter, you'll have to piggyback your SCC output on that route.

Cables from battery to pass-through.. I would not call it a consensus. More like a lesser-of-evils. The best avenue was running the pos and neg up through the inside of the front wall. That is, behind the front outer skin and behind the skin of the front wall of the pass-through. But that 1.5in thick wall was unpenetrable by me. I personally saw 3 rvs done that way, but it was done by the manufacturer during the trailer build. The only passage I could make into the pass through is the way I showed it in the pictures.

I would like to have penetrated the coroplast rather than the darco but there was too much blind cutting on my TT. And no way to easily peel the darco back, do the work, and replace it.
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Old 04-22-2021, 05:23 AM   #107
Kevin J
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Posts: 48
Thank you.
Very useful info.
I'll download the keystone wiring and post later about the 3 coulored wires
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