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Old 08-25-2019, 08:05 AM   #21
Voylyn
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Chuckster, what brand is that?
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:11 AM   #22
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It says, Renator. It was in a trade-in that the new buyer didn’t want so I got it for a real good price. As you can see it’s adjustable. And has a filter
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BTW, welcome to the forum!!
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:54 AM   #23
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bought a 239ML

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finally. an intelligent reply. Thank you.


I hope you don’t need more help in the future with replies like that! Good luck to you and hope all goes well.
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Old 08-27-2019, 08:57 AM   #24
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My water pressure regulator
Attachment 23406
Now that right there is a regulator!!
That little short brass thing the dealer may have given you is NOT!
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Old 08-28-2019, 05:32 AM   #25
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Under the category of FWIW, we have an Anderson WD hitch and works very well especially for sway. Had the trailer, our first, for 3 seasons now, so have no frame of reference compared to others, but have read lots of reviews that seem to agree. I, like you originally felt, no need for WD hitch. Ram 3500, towing a 21RBS, big truck little trailer, I’m all set. Tow the camper home from the dealer, about an hour on the interstate being passed by big rigs, get home and immediately sit down on the computer and start looking at ratings on WD hitches. Ended up with the Anderson. Night and day, even with the one ton.
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Old 08-28-2019, 05:40 AM   #26
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It says, Renator. It was in a trade-in that the new buyer didn’t want so I got it for a real good price. As you can see it’s adjustable. And has a filter
Attachment 23410Attachment 23409Attachment 23408Attachment 23407

BTW, welcome to the forum!!
Currently using the cheap restrictor, and see the wisdom in the adjustable regulator, for a host of reasons. Safety or course, but also for decent water flow, especially when basking in the luxury of full hookups. So the urban legend is 45 psi is where you want to be for safety. What psi are our trailers truly rated for? 50 safe? 55?
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Old 08-28-2019, 05:52 AM   #27
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Currently using the cheap restrictor, and see the wisdom in the adjustable regulator, for a host of reasons. Safety or course, but also for decent water flow, especially when basking in the luxury of full hookups. So the urban legend is 45 psi is where you want to be for safety. What psi are our trailers truly rated for? 50 safe? 55?
I have my regulator set at 60#. Seems to be good with no leaks. Anything less and the water just seems to be a trickle. YMMV
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Old 08-28-2019, 05:53 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Bamabox View Post
Currently using the cheap restrictor, and see the wisdom in the adjustable regulator, for a host of reasons. Safety or course, but also for decent water flow, especially when basking in the luxury of full hookups. So the urban legend is 45 psi is where you want to be for safety. What psi are our trailers truly rated for? 50 safe? 55?
I have never seen any "certified pressure rating" on any RV. Typically, just like a chain, the plumbing system in an RV is only as strong as the weakest link. There are LOTS of "weak links" in all RV plumbing systems. Consider PEX pipe as probably the strongest component, then you have ABS fittings, crimped connections, vinyl hose connecting adapters, plastic faucets, long plumbing runs that twist, vibrate and loosen with every tow and workmanship that includes the possibility that a staple, screw or pneumatic nail may have been driven into or scarred any of the above components.

So, as for a "certified pressure rating" I'd suggest that's an "internet myth" or a "urban legend".... In reality, most 12 volt pumps operate at around 40-45 PSI and usually provide adequate (don't confuse adequate with similar to a home) pressure and volume for most use.

Remember that in an RV there is much more to consider than pressure. While it's refreshing to shower with "almost stinging water pressure" that also uses significantly more water (gallons per minute) than a "adequate to get clean" shower. When dry camping, it's just as important to conserve available supplies and not fill the gray tank too rapidly, so the plumbing system is designed to provide "adequate" not "just like home" performance which also keeps the pressure low enough that it won't damage the "twisted, cheap components which "aren't certified to be leakproof at any pressure"...... When connected to a city water source and there's no need to conserve water because of limited supply or storage concerns, that same "low pressure/low volume" designed system can't "be all things for a high pressure system"...
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Old 08-28-2019, 06:20 AM   #29
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I have never seen any "certified pressure rating" on any RV. Typically, just like a chain, the plumbing system in an RV is only as strong as the weakest link. There are LOTS of "weak links" in all RV plumbing systems. Consider PEX pipe as probably the strongest component, then you have ABS fittings, crimped connections, vinyl hose connecting adapters, plastic faucets, long plumbing runs that twist, vibrate and loosen with every tow and workmanship that includes the possibility that a staple, screw or pneumatic nail may have been driven into or scarred any of the above components.

So, as for a "certified pressure rating" I'd suggest that's an "internet myth" or a "urban legend".... In reality, most 12 volt pumps operate at around 40-45 PSI and usually provide adequate (don't confuse adequate with similar to a home) pressure and volume for most use.

Remember that in an RV there is much more to consider than pressure. While it's refreshing to shower with "almost stinging water pressure" that also uses significantly more water (gallons per minute) than a "adequate to get clean" shower. When dry camping, it's just as important to conserve available supplies and not fill the gray tank too rapidly, so the plumbing system is designed to provide "adequate" not "just like home" performance which also keeps the pressure low enough that it won't damage the "twisted, cheap components which "aren't certified to be leakproof at any pressure"...... When connected to a city water source and there's no need to conserve water because of limited supply or storage concerns, that same "low pressure/low volume" designed system can't "be all things for a high pressure system"...
Ok, that makes sense about the pumps being at 40-45 psi because I get better water flow from my pump and fresh tank than I do from any city water using the cheap restrictor. One more reason to get a real regulator.
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Old 08-28-2019, 07:06 AM   #30
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Just to be clear, even with the adjustable regulator if the park has pressure lower than the set pressure on the regulator it WILL NOT increase the pressure, it only reduces high pressures. The restrictor restricts the flow at any/all pressures but more the higher the pressure.
My regulator came preset at 55 psi, which if the park had at least that much was a good pressure, most parks we stayed at were in the 40 psi range, kind of weak, & several were over 100.
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Old 08-28-2019, 03:07 PM   #31
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Just to be clear, even with the adjustable regulator if the park has pressure lower than the set pressure on the regulator it WILL NOT increase the pressure, it only reduces high pressures. The restrictor restricts the flow at any/all pressures but more the higher the pressure.
My regulator came preset at 55 psi, which if the park had at least that much was a good pressure, most parks we stayed at were in the 40 psi range, kind of weak, & several were over 100.
This ^^^ is what many folks don't know I believe. Those cheap little brass "regulators", generally with the orange serrated knob, don't particularly "regulate", they "restrict" - at any and all pressures. If you go to a park with low pressure, and there are lots of them, it just cuts it down further.
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:00 AM   #32
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After several years without an RV. The wife and I got the itch again. I wanted something that would be very easy on my silverado 1500 and the Wife insisted on bunks for Grandbabies. This seems like a perfect fit. The dealer was 3 hours away. The local salesman wouldnt even counter my offer. So after he spent all morning showing us around He loses to a salesman who didnt have to do a thing but answer the phone and say yes.

The Silverado towed it with ease. 2/3 full of fresh water and full of propane the truck hitch barely went down. 30 psi in the airbags leveled it perfect and away we went. I dont see the need for a WDH as of yet.

Stayed at a local campground that night compliments of the dealer to shake it out. It even rained for us to do a leak check. All was good ( for an RV that is) We have showed this industry we will still buy them even with quality issues so I keep the bar kind of low.



Here is the point to be made... your truck cost you around 45 to 50k right? Trailer another 15 to 20... a $600 hitch wont break the bank! Just because your Chevy can, doesnt mean it should!



Guys here are trying to help you, not hinder you. Anything over 5000 pounds should have a WDH, period!


I wouldnt tow with anything but an Equalizer E4. Have had others, and nothing comes close.
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:28 AM   #33
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1 added Ben to wd

I towed a inclosed car trailer with a 10k rating with a Chevy 1500 hd before buying my 2500 hd and fiver. When I bought the trailer it was a spur of the moment buy great sale price while on vacation. I towed it home from Tenn to conn. It seamed to tow fine no issues. When I got home a fellow racer said I should be using a wd . I said why every thing seamed fine. He said believe me once you tow with the wd you will never look back again. He had a used hitch he let me try. The biggest thing I noticed was the ride improvement . I found it much better on rough roads. With the wd it felt like the trailer and truck where one no up a down dipping. It was like the frames where one unit.
By the way he was right I bought the hitch from him and never looked back.
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Old 08-29-2019, 01:35 PM   #34
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That’s the model we just bought for the same reason - bunks for the grandchild. UltraLite model. Our first RV, graduated from a 1995 pop-up.

We are towing with a Tacoma with Toyota 6k lb. tow package, and had no issues. Had a weight distribution hitch/sway bar installed, Blue Ox brand. And added a third leaf spring to our rear truck shocks. Camped at a local RV park to learn the ropes, and our tank gauges were dead. Took it back to the dealership for repairs, can pick up this weekend. Going to boondock next week to continue to learn how to use it before parking it for weekend use during the Fall.
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:56 PM   #35
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That’s the model we just bought for the same reason - bunks for the grandchild. UltraLite model. Our first RV, graduated from a 1995 pop-up.

We are towing with a Tacoma with Toyota 6k lb. tow package, and had no issues. Had a weight distribution hitch/sway bar installed, Blue Ox brand. And added a third leaf spring to our rear truck shocks. Camped at a local RV park to learn the ropes, and our tank gauges were dead. Took it back to the dealership for repairs, can pick up this weekend. Going to boondock next week to continue to learn how to use it before parking it for weekend use during the Fall.
You'll need to learn your RV holding tank limits! Even if the tank sensors do light up don't expect them to be any where near accurate. The fresh water should be somewhat correct, but the waste tanks, especially the black, it'll be anybodys guess after the 1st fill or 2.
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Old 08-30-2019, 04:02 AM   #36
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Oh wow. Thanks for that most important tidbit of information.
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Old 10-21-2019, 06:46 PM   #37
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Can’t figure how to ask this otherwise. You seem thoughtful. Do you like your 239 so far? Bunkhouse version? Murphy bed ?
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:12 AM   #38
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Yes, so far we have enjoyed ours. We found that the dealership did not do our PDI test when water was connected, so we had leaks underneath the kitchen sink. Multiple leaks. They have been repaired. Our only other issue is that the thermostat requires upgrading. The one supplied isn’t working properly, I turn it on, wait 30 minutes for the heater to come on, then finally decide to turn it off because it won’t turn on. When I move the thermostat knob to turn it off, the heat finally comes on. Also, the thermostat read out is like trying to read a mercury thermometer, you have to hold the light at a certain angle to see it. We are going to upgrade to a digital thermostat when we have this faulty one replaced.
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:56 AM   #39
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I wasn't going to respond as some very sound advice has been given.
A few observations.
The OP apparently was seeking an attaboy vs advice from folks with "real world experience" and here's why: When given advice, he becomes defensive then attacks with "seeking facts, not opinion" and then links to a sales brochure and reverts to an ad hominem response.

So attaboy! Looks great! You got this! Enjoy!

As a footnote, this forum from my understanding, is to help Keystone RV owners via
the sharing their experiences, their solutions to problems that others may have, and yes their opinions. We all have opinions some good, some not so good and we should be able to share and challenge each other in an adult conversation.
In MY OPINION, if you are seeking scientific evidence, then contact an engineering consulting firm that specializes in vehicle safety. Should only cost you a couple of tens of thousands of dollars and handing over your truck, your trailer (loaded for camping) and take a few weeks. I'm sure you will receive all the "scientific data" and "facts" possible.
JMHO
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Old 10-22-2019, 05:41 AM   #40
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Can’t figure how to ask this otherwise. You seem thoughtful. Do you like your 239 so far? Bunkhouse version? Murphy bed ?
Another response about the 239. We love the Murphy bed, but never raise it to use the sofa. I am so tired at the end of the day that I don’t want to lower it and rearrange pillows/bedding. If we were to have guests, I would raise the bed to use the sofa. Just my husband and I, plus the six-year old grandson, don’t need as much room, and spend most of our time outdoors.
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