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Old 10-22-2016, 06:02 AM   #21
slow
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Tbos,

I am not surprised your dealer struggled to make the repair. The only success I had after many attempts was new pads. BTW: I too used Gorilla tape for a period of time until I came up with the nylon bumper solution.

To be honest, I have not spent anytime yet looking for a commercially available bumper. It was going to be a winter project since I am in the middle of a home renovation.

But one "plastic stem bumper" I came across on the web that may work is the following:

https://www.wclco.com/plastic-compon...-stem-bumpers/

Item number 138NN-5354-0000

One concern would be that it is a press fit, not a snap fit. But it has the right head height at .156 and head diameter. If you go this route, note that the pin diameter is NOT .25, but .207 inch. I suspect you would want to finish drilling with a 13/64 (.203") diameter drill bit when drilling holes in your slide brackets to get a press fit.

If you go this route, please let us know how it works out. If you hold off until next spring, I may have more info and forum member allthede (Don) may have some feedback on how the mod went for him.
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Old 10-22-2016, 03:27 PM   #22
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

BTW: The rubber pads come with no holes or slits in them. The slits must have been made by the tech at the dealership instead of taking the time to punch round holes in the pads, and then disconnecting the cables from the slide brackets to feed the cable thru the punched hole in the pad.
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:21 PM   #23
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

At least two of my cables rubs the edge of the slide frame hole quite a bit. There doesn't seem to be any cable wear yet but the aluminum frame is worn. Did you have any rubbing issues that were visible when the pads were removed?
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:08 PM   #24
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Yes I did have the cables rub the aluminum frame at all 4 retract cables. The extend cables (on the inside of the TT) do as well but not as much and not a concern since the TT is stationary when the slide is extended whereas the slide bounces around when retracted wearing the cables while in transit.

If you pull off a pad, pull off the tape on the inside of the slide frame and look in the slide frame you will see that the pulleys for the retract cables are positioned too far toward the slide box causing the wear. When I removed my pads to replace them 2 summers ago, I used a small round file to elongate the diamond shaped hole towards the slide box. I kept the hole diamond shaped, just wider horizontally. The hole for the cable is now almost to the inside edge of the aluminum frame. Pretty easy to do once you release the cable from the slide bracket as I described in a post earlier in this thread, to get the cable out of the way so it is not damaged by the file. Note the lead in chamfer where I filed to the left of the original hole.



IMO, the design I have has potential, but it was very poorly executed. And unfortunately neither Bal or Keystone would every admit that it was poorly designed, so we are on our on to fix it. Not that the warranty covers design errors anyway.

I also check often to be sure the retract cable end is positioned to the outside of the slide bracket. Over time, the cable "bulb" end has worn a seated position in the slide bracket in that outboard position, so it usually is where I want it to be.

FWIIW: I have been looking at other Bal Accu-Slide cable systems on TTs and FWs in campgrounds. There is an earlier design that did not use the 4 inch rubber pads. Those seem to be on models prior to 2014. From a distance, I have not been able to see any issues with that version. I suspect Bal made a design change sometime around the 2014 model year and had not worked out the bugs before introducing the newer version with the pads. Every single TT or FW I have seen with the pads, has a problem with the pads being damaged. There may be another design change more recently which would explain the smaller and thinner pads that they are sending out. These thinner and smaller pads do not seem to be as soft. But since they are smaller, they do not cover the elongated hole that I deliberately made to save the cable from fraying. I have not seen the smaller pads on any TTs or FWs yet.

So far the only thing that seems to work for me is remove the pads, remove the "tape" covering the hole from inside the slide frame (mine were mangled from the cable anyway and had the potential of getting caught in the pulley and dislodging the cable from the pulley), elongate the diamond shaped cable clearance hole, add the nylatron stops and install new pads (shortened from 4 inches to 2.5 inches).
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Old 10-23-2016, 12:02 PM   #25
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Slow, I know if seen others post about alignment issues but didn't remember if you did. Mine are the same as yours. I need to do something about the thinner pads the dealer installed. I can tell the slide is now compressing the outer slide seals more than it used to. I'll have to see if I can get the right pads and install them. I used to have some hard rubber bumpers in various sizes but can't seem to find them. If I do I will send you the information. Thanks for all the help.


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Old 10-23-2016, 01:26 PM   #26
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

As an interim step, I used relatively hard cabinet door self adhesive bumpers as stops along with gorilla tape in place of the pads that had fallen off. Only problem was with use, they would dislodge after a few trips and needed to be replaced. I assume the slide bounces vertically somewhat on rough roads and would therefore shear the self adhesive bumpers at the adhesive joint. That is why I decided I needed something mounted rigid in the slide bracket and free to slide easily against the aluminum slide frame. the result was the snap fit nylatron stop.

As for the correct pads, the version you want is Bal part number 25041, Cable Path Hybrid 4". They come as a set of four pads.

I suspect your dealer sourced the smaller pad Bal part number 25040. I would get them to provide the correct pads for free since they installed the wrong pads and incorrectly at that.
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:18 PM   #27
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BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Quote:
Originally Posted by slow View Post
As an interim step, I used relatively hard cabinet door self adhesive bumpers as stops along with gorilla tape in place of the pads that had fallen off. Only problem was with use, they would dislodge after a few trips and needed to be replaced. I assume the slide bounces vertically somewhat on rough roads and would therefore shear the self adhesive bumpers at the adhesive joint. That is why I decided I needed something mounted rigid in the slide bracket and free to slide easily against the aluminum slide frame. the result was the snap fit nylatron stop.

As for the correct pads, the version you want is Bal part number 25041, Cable Path Hybrid 4". They come as a set of four pads.

I suspect your dealer sourced the smaller pad Bal part number 25040. I would get them to provide the correct pads for free since they installed the wrong pads and incorrectly at that.

Thanks. I've not had a lot of luck with my dealer. They are 1.5 hours away and they want you to make an appt to get in line for service. The Keystone warranty expired today. They knew they weren't sticking correctly when I opened the slide at the dealer. I thought about the cabinet door bumpers too. Did you shorten the pad length when you used them?

Thanks again.


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Old 10-23-2016, 05:33 PM   #28
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

I shortened the pads when I installed the nylatron stops. I used the cabinet bumpers with the gorilla tape. The cabinet bumpers are only a short term solution.

If you are getting the new correct pads, install the nylatron stops and the issues will be behind you.


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Old 10-23-2016, 05:57 PM   #29
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

I tried to get my local CW dealer to ordered the BAL #25041 but after 4 weeks they still hadn't ordered them. I checked out www.trekwood.com but the part were not listed. After emailing them (reply email was from Tiara RV Sales) they gave me a part #777350108 (SKU 350108) at $29.42 (plus $7.50 shipping). The part was from Jessie at Tiara RV Sales (Jessie@TiaraRVSales) com not teakwood. The parts should be here next week.

NOTE: Each part package includes 4 pads.
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Old 10-23-2016, 06:50 PM   #30
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BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Hopefully you have better luck with Trekwood/ Tiara RV than I did. (They are related companies.) They sent me the smaller and thinner pad and ended up refunding my payment. The SKU was 350108.

Being in the US I suggest contacting Bal directly for a reputable source of the correct pads. They provided a source in the US who's name I cannot remember, but they did not ship to Canada.

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Old 10-23-2016, 07:15 PM   #31
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BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Just dug thru old emails. Bal tech support had identified colawrvs.com as the source of the 25041 pads. They quoted $13.90 for a set of 4 plus shipping when I enquired last May. I was dealing with Kristina, but like I noted, they would not ship to Canada so I did not get a chance to verify that they would send out the correct pads.


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Old 11-02-2016, 01:26 PM   #32
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Well, I finally took the step and followed Slow's post about replacing the "rubber seats" and installing the "nylatron stops". I took my time and the project turned out better than expected.

I ordered the "rubber seats" from Tiara RV Sales in Elkhart, Indiana. The rubber seats come 4 per package at $29.42 per package. The part number is SKU #350108 and named "Mechanism - Slideout - Cable Patch - Hybrid Systems Only - 25042 - 4/Pkg - Norco".

The most challenging part is centering the drill bit to drill the holes for the nylatron stops but if you take your time and progress from small to large drill bit it is worth the effort.

I replaced one of the slide out cables at the same time so it was a timely project.

Pictures are attached.

Thanks to "slow" for posting this modification ..... Don
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Old 11-02-2016, 02:20 PM   #33
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Please keep us posted on how durable they prove to be for you.


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Old 11-03-2016, 01:32 AM   #34
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Looks like it came out nice. What did you put behind the bracket to make sure you didn't drill into the slide facia?


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Old 11-03-2016, 02:44 AM   #35
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

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Looks like it came out nice. What did you put behind the bracket to make sure you didn't drill into the slide facia?


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I temporarily taped a small scrap of aluminum sheet to the slide box trim behind the hole location I was drilling.
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:24 AM   #36
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Glad I ran across this post. I have one "pad" that came loose on my Sprinter and need to re-glue it.

However, (No intent to hi-jack thread) I have noticed that my slide is in need of adjustment. When I open it everything seems ok. But when I close it the top starts to come in before the bottom. Slight hesitation but it obviously isnt the same. Also when in full open the side trim on the inside of slide that meets the wall isn't flush. The top makes contact and leaves a 1/4" or so gap at bottom on both sides.

I noticed the adjustment instructions on the inside above the slide but would like for someone to comment on how easy it is as well as any pointers/tips?

Thanks
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:00 AM   #37
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

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Originally Posted by brittsnbirds View Post
Glad I ran across this post. I have one "pad" that came loose on my Sprinter and need to re-glue it.

However, (No intent to hi-jack thread) I have noticed that my slide is in need of adjustment. When I open it everything seems ok. But when I close it the top starts to come in before the bottom. Slight hesitation but it obviously isnt the same. Also when in full open the side trim on the inside of slide that meets the wall isn't flush. The top makes contact and leaves a 1/4" or so gap at bottom on both sides.

I noticed the adjustment instructions on the inside above the slide but would like for someone to comment on how easy it is as well as any pointers/tips?

Thanks
The adjustment procedure is easy if you do not over think it as you will be tempted to do with the label info. The hard part is gaining access behind the trim to make the adjustments.

The objective of the adjustment is to obtain an equal amount of slack on the loose cables in the open and retracted position. That means that when the slide is open, you adjust the cables that are exposed to the outside of the TT. When the slide is closed, you adjust the cable tension for the cables inside the TT.

The amount of slack is approximately 1/2" of cable movement at its mid point of free length when applying about 3 to 5 pounds of force.

The adjustment procedure starts on page 6 of this manual: http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/ac...ice-manual.pdf
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:46 PM   #38
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Re: BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

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Originally Posted by Tbos View Post
Looks like it came out nice. What did you put behind the bracket to make sure you didn't drill into the slide facia?


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Hello Tom:

I did as Slow did, I temporarily taped a small scrap of aluminum sheet to the slide box trim behind the hole location I was drilling.

Doing that eliminates a "guess what I just did" moment.

Don
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:47 PM   #39
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re BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

Thanks Slow & all for your extensive posts & sharing your experience with the cable slide problems. We have a Cougar 299 with similar issues (top rubber seal pads gone & extensive hole wear. The 5er has had very little use. Found most of the adjustment nuts loose. Re-adjusted & happy with the way it all works with cables also not touching sides of mashed outside holes.
I'm wondering if the outside seals should be shifted to allow centring in the cable holes before replacing cable pads, providing the seal rubber can still wipe easily?
I assume this is done by removing outer rubber seal to access screws, seal old holes and move in to suit hole then screw in to new position.
Comments appreciated.
Cheers
Jon
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Old 05-19-2017, 03:04 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sulphur1 View Post
..................I'm wondering if the outside seals should be shifted to allow centring in the cable holes before replacing cable pads, providing the seal rubber can still wipe easily?
I assume this is done by removing outer rubber seal to access screws, seal old holes and move in to suit hole then screw in to new position.
Comments appreciated.
Cheers
Jon
Hi Jon,

On my slide, it is not possible to move the inner wipe or outer bulb seal independently of the slide frame that has the cable clearance hole. Does your slide frame and seals look similar to the pictures of mine that I posted or is your version different?

Also I am not sure if it is possible to center the cables in the holes since the pulleys are what positions the cable relative to the holes in the frame.
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