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Old 12-07-2015, 07:03 PM   #21
bobbecky
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Had issues with a couple of mine. I finally got grease to flow after about a year, but really solved the problem when I got rid of the one-handed grease gun and bought an old style two-hand operated lever grease gun. Some have found lifting the rig to take some weight off the suspension allows the grease to flow, especially if the problem wet bolt is turned where the hole inside is facing down, not allowing the grease to exit the hole in the bolt.
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Old 12-12-2015, 08:45 AM   #22
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Yeah, two-handed, lever grease gun with a hose. Still have my dad's from when he had his trucks. They've been working great for over 50 years. Taking weight off the shackle might help, too.
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Old 12-17-2015, 05:27 AM   #23
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Speaking of wet bolt issues....anyone have an instant diagnosis for one that won't take grease? I've got a Harbor Freight pneumatic grease gun on the way. Try more pressure than the hand pump one before I tear into it.
The HF grease gun did the trick.
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Old 12-22-2015, 10:02 AM   #24
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I contacted mor ryde for a wet bolt setup with the factory correct track, this is there reply:

We do have a kit designed specifically for trailers that have the factory correct track installed. The part number you need is UO12-029. This is a fairly new item that isn’t yet available online so you may purchase directly from us if you chose. Your cost is $139.99 for the kit.
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:41 PM   #25
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I purchased the Dexter E-Z Flex kit from e-Trailer for $228.95 and free shipping. I was planning on doing the install myself, but it decided to start raining here in Cali so I decided to let Camping World do the job. It was a 2 hour job and they charged $232.00 to do it, including greasing the new bolts. I have to say that the ride back home was very nice. The roads out here truly are HORRIBLE, but there was little notice of the jarring feeling that the old suspension components produced.
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Old 01-07-2016, 11:21 AM   #26
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2 hours labor, pretty reasonable considering what a pain it is to remove wheels and tires on these..
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Old 01-08-2016, 09:52 AM   #27
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That is the biggest dilemma I faced, raising the trailer in order to remove wheels and parts. it would have cost me almost that much to buy a couple of jacks big enough to lift one side of the trailer!
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:55 AM   #28
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FYI - for those of us with double or triple axles and correct-track, the part number is:
UO12-031 (double axle)
UO12-032 (triple axle)

Apparently the correct track and Equaflex has 3 1/8th shackles...
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Old 01-15-2016, 10:57 AM   #29
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I had my wet bolts done at a local spring and chassis shop for about $150 (2.5 hours. At the time, I switched from MorRyde CRE3000 to Dexter EZ Flex. That turned out to be a mistake as the Dexter lowered the my 299RK and allowed the tires to rub on the chassis above when bumpy. I discovered that while traveling cross country and scheduled an appointment at MorRyde for a pinbox and switch back to CRE3000. The fiver rides great now and they greased the wet bolts as part of the process. Great folks.
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Old 01-15-2016, 08:12 PM   #30
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Did you start with a morride 3000? Wondering if they are worth the install?
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Old 01-16-2016, 12:22 AM   #31
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With the problems owners are having in their attempts to grease the wet bolts I may just go with the Never Fail bushings. Sounds like a much better option.....Lower cost.....And a lot less headaches.....Lippert recommends them over the wet bolt kit for life and of product and no maintenance.
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Old 01-16-2016, 07:53 AM   #32
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Well, JMHO but, there is no such thing as 'no maintenance'. We installed the wet bolt kit on our Cougar and have had zero problems with getting the wet bolts to take grease. If the bolts are installed correctly, with the grease ports at 3 or 9 o'clock, there shouldn't be an issue. Some of the members have even chamfered the grease ports to allow the grease to flow easier.
The 'never fail' bushings are still going to wear albeit at a slower rate.
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Old 01-16-2016, 08:33 AM   #33
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Never had a problem greasing the wet bolts the secret is install at the 3 o'clock position but also take a flat file and make a small flat surface across the wet bolt hole this allows the grease to flow across the width of the bolt. I'm
talking about 2 or 3 strokes with a 1 inch wide flat file.
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Old 02-15-2016, 07:30 AM   #34
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I installed mine this weekend. It was a 5 hour job for me. Hardest part was figuring out how to lift the RV.

I ended up lifting it behind the rear axle, just high enough to get the tires off the ground. Did one axle at a time. I spent half the time fiddling with the jacks and stands until I figured it out.

My nylon bushings were still OK @ 8 months old, 4k miles on the trailer. No signs of grease in any of it. The Correct Track system already had brass bushings, so I didn't replace them.

I did champfer (file) my bolts. Greased by hand, I didn't try pushing grease into them yet...

This is $100 that I wish Keystone would have spent.. :-)
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Old 02-17-2016, 07:56 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by dcg9381 View Post
I installed mine this weekend. It was a 5 hour job for me. Hardest part was figuring out how to lift the RV.

I ended up lifting it behind the rear axle, just high enough to get the tires off the ground. Did one axle at a time. I spent half the time fiddling with the jacks and stands until I figured it out.

My nylon bushings were still OK @ 8 months old, 4k miles on the trailer. No signs of grease in any of it. The Correct Track system already had brass bushings, so I didn't replace them.

I did champfer (file) my bolts. Greased by hand, I didn't try pushing grease into them yet...

This is $100 that I wish Keystone would have spent.. :-)
Well lifting and supporting are two different things, both time I have worked on the springs and axles of the 5er I never had space to leave the TV attached, OR did I desire to.

When I was a little kid I played with some blocks that my grandfather made for my dad! They were simply 1X1's cut into 12" and 3" lengths, with these I learned about cribbing!

This is cribbing supporting one side of the 5er.





This is the Landing gear and some large jack stands sharing supporting the front of the 5er.



5er sitting wheels off securely supported so I could easily work under it.



Wet bolts and 1/2" shackles.



Bronze bushings will go in much easier, if placed with Dry Ice in the freezer over night.
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Old 02-18-2016, 03:51 AM   #36
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I too like using wood cribbing vs. a fully extended jack stand.
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:47 AM   #37
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rhagfo,
It looks like you've got a "lift" on your RV?
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Old 02-18-2016, 06:31 PM   #38
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I did it as follows:

weld flat 2x6" plate to 1"length of 2" pipe (to fit over top of hydraulic bottle jack) to eliminate slipping and spread load.
Use 2 jacks, one to front of axles, one to rear, (working on one side at a time)

Build height of jacks up with8" x8" blocks about 18" long, until Jack just fits under frame in down position. Then, jack up until wheels off. If jack leaks down it cannot come lower than your starting point . This is MUCH more stable than using jack stands. 6ton bottle jacks are not expensive.
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:19 PM   #39
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I did one side at a time jacking the axles just enough to remove the tires rather than jacking the entire trailer. No cribbing, just stabilizers, landing gear and a couple of jack stands. Worked for me...
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:41 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcg9381 View Post
rhagfo,
It looks like you've got a "lift" on your RV?
Yes the Correct Track lifts 2" which is just what we needed to finally get our 5er level.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert185 View Post
I did one side at a time jacking the axles just enough to remove the tires rather than jacking the entire trailer. No cribbing, just stabilizers, landing gear and a couple of jack stands. Worked for me...
I like having full control of the axles with both sides off the ground you have full control of the axles. Just a preferance.
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