K2500 suburban towing 2013 Sprinter 311 BHS

[summerhummer]

Hi,
Similar to the other post I too am looking at the 311 BHS Sprinter I ran through the numbers. I know I am the ultimate decision maker but I would like a review.
TV is 2006 Suburban 4X4 with 8.1L and 4:10 rear.
GVWR of TV =8600... Curb weight 5910 leaves a payload of 2690

TT dry weight 8260 max Cargo capacity 2735
If I use 13.5% of max load as estimated hitch weight I get 1484 on the hitch.

I think this makes my payload =8600-5910-1484-650( passengers)-300 (gear includes hitch weight )=156 left in payload Not very much but I don't have 650 in passengers its probably 550 but allowing room for growth of the young ones over the next 5 years.

I am estimating my loaded weight to be around 9760 This is carrying 1500 in cargo in the TT . The vehicle is rated for a max of 12K Additionally I am a weekend camper so I don't envision 1500 in cargo. Fresh water is from the camp site most times. Is this crazy will it burn out my transmission? I would like to know how others on the board with the same set up feel about the experience . I have Pmed a few but no responses. I am looking at the blue ox sway pro or equilizer hitch. Use is South east mainly Ga, SC TN FL. I would love to go west but I am still working so I don't see how that is possible. Please let me know.

[summerhummer]

For a little more margin of error I am going with 8260 Dry weight and 2097 of cargo. Based this on the sister 316BIK have a loaded scale weight of 10,800

[JRTJH]

You left out one important component in your calculations: What is the GCWR for your Suburban? You need to consider the "max trailer capacity" of the vehicle which will be a component of the gross COMBINED weight rating. In 2006 the 2500 series Suburbans were rated between 7900 and 12000 lbs max TRAILER weight. Depending on the actual GCWR posted on the doorframe of the truck, your max trailer weight may go down significantly.

Suppose your GCWR is 15,300, your curb weight is 5910. That's a "theoretical" max trailer weight of 9390. BUT when you add the 950 lbs of passengers and gear to the truck, your max trailer weight goes down by that much: so the heaviest trailer you can tow also goes down. In this case it goes down to 8440.

Double check the GCWR and make sure you run the numbers against that as well as the GVW. Both are limiting factors that need to be considered.

Weekend users often start out with 800 lbs of cargo, and think, as you do, that they will never use all the cargo capacity "since we only weekend". Often weekend users also think, "I'll leave this in the trailer in case I need it next trip" those two thoughts often get weekend users into trouble with their capacity because it's often difficult to keep track of all the "extras" that tend to accumulate from trip to trip.

If you were to completely unload EVERYTHING from your trailer after every trip and start over "fresh" every time, maybe the accumumation wouldn't be as significant, but you can expect to rapidly approach your "we just gotta have this too" limit which usually approaches the volume storage capacity rather than the weight storage capacity of the storage compartments. When things "look" full is when most inexperienced (and some experienced) RV'ers start to think about weight limits. Often, they are already well into the payload capacity by that time.

Don't count on "never approaching payload because we only weekend"

[summerhummer]

Hello, Thank you for that experienced wisdom of "once it goes in,most likely it stays in, then more goes in" concept John. This is a very valid scenario that needs to be considered and remembered. Gross Combined Weight Rating is 19,000 LBs for the truck. so we have
10995 max trailer
5910 curb,
825 passengers &cargo
1484 tongue weight (using 13.5% of max loaded TT)

19214 max of everything which is 214 Lbs over

hypothetically lets go with loaded 10,800 as max loaded TT weight
which I think is high since the 10,800 is scale weight taken from a real life 316BIK that is 443 Lbs heavier from the start than the 311 BHS.

10,800 max tt
5910 curb
825 passengers & cargo & hitch
1458 tongue weight
18993 GCWR


What I think is realistic for calculation is
10,400 max tt
5910 curb
825 passengers & cargo (includes hitch)
1456 tongue weight using 14% of 10,400

18591 GCWR

Still very heavy and close to the red line but under.
Realistically I assume we want 10-12 % for hitch weight and not 13.5 or 14 for balancing ?

[summerhummer]

I am with Doug who can tow this thing with much room to spare? Only a 3500? This is why I really wanted to hear from those doing this with a 2500 burban 4X4 8.1L 4:10 rear. I do not like /desire white knuckles.... Just to put all my info out there GAWR rear 5500LB GAWR Front 4180 LBs

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by summerhummer

...Realistically I assume we want 10-12 % for hitch weight and not 13.5 or 14 for balancing ?

The tongue weight percentage is dependent on a number of factors. Wheelbase of the TV, TV weight vs trailer weight, sidewall height, sidewall square footage, distance from axles to the front of the sidewall vs to the rear of the sidewall, shape of the trailer roof and/or rear wall, etc.

One tow vehicle may perform very well with a trailer using 11% tongue weight while the exact trailer may be "squirrely as heck" at 11% when towed by a different TV. So, you'll have to wait until you actually load and tow your combination to determine exactly what percentage of tongue weight works best for you... This is yet another reason not to figure at the "bottom end" of weights when trying to justify a lighter tow vehicle/heavier trailer combination. If you do all your "figuring" at 11% tongue weight and have zero GVW with the TV to fall back on and after you buy, suddenly find your rig actually tows better (and is safer) at 14% tongue weight, where's your capability to rebalance your trailer to achieve better "towability" ??

That's why most will advise to use trailer GVW and 15% tongue weight when doing the math, that way you'll almost always have the "fudge factor" working to your benefit rather than being "against the wall" with nothing to spare.

[Javi]

I'm wondering what the sticker on the door post says the payload is? Also wondering about the receiver on that 'burb, is it rated for 1400 + lbs

Next I'd load the 'burb just like you'll travel and go hit a Cat Scale. Weighing the front axle on one scale plate and the rear axle on another... I'm betting that you'll find out a bunch about your calculations...

[Fixjet]

I would be a little sceptical of the curb weight. My 01 2500 Suburban 8.1 4x4 weighed just over 7k with full fuel and 2 people no cargo. Don't think the newer ones are that light are they? It might be heavier than the listed curb weight.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[summerhummer]

Well I loaded up the TV above with passengers full tank normal TV stuff. steer axle =3720 drive axle= 3340 trailer axle- 120. I don't know exactly what the trailer axle weight is/was since I only had one axle on each weight pad and I only weighed the truck.

Total gross weight of tow vehicle was 7180. This does still leave some payload after sub tracking for hitch and tongue etc.
You are right. The published curb weight is moose poop. Average loaded weight on these trailers was about 9500-9600 camp ready from two people who weighed them recently. If I take my GVWR less TV weight less tongue weight that gives me about 10,520 in towing capacity. The Sprinter has a huge Carry capacity. While I love this trailer and I think it is doable I am going with its lighter weight cousin the Laredo as it looks right now....

They tell me the I-BEAM is what causes the difference on these 2 similar models 8 vs 10 inch accounts for the aprox 2K weigh difference in the similar layout. I do like the keystone better but I need to keep my truck and my knuckles happy. What say you?

[summerhummer]

Trigger pulled the 2500 burb pulled the Laredo fine…. Since September I looked at the Sprinter 311 BHS, Sprinter 316BIK, Laredo 303 TG and finally decided on the Laredo 320 TG. The 311 and 316 seemed too much weight. I Purchased in mid February From a distant dealer. I Looked locally but no one wanted to come near the prices of the distant dealer. A few days before my departure I smelled Hydraulic fluid from my truck. Passenger side axle seal hub leaking. While vehicle was inspected the also noticed front hub bearing shot. What the hell since the differential pinion seal always had a small leak I fixed that too. All repairs totaled $1300.00 ouch… I wish I could do more of this myself. Installed a bigger trans cooler for another $300,00 and I am on my way. The Drive up was uneventful except for being stuck behind a huge transporter that took up 3 highway lanes at one time.

Arrive at the dealer did walk through Equalizer hitch installed. (This thing is good and IMHO works better than the husky I had before). We decided to camp overnight bad idea winds that night were 60 knots.

A TT is not the best place to be in that situation with high winds. I am pleased with its stoutness in the heavy winds. We survived and noticed a few things about the trailer for the punch list. Most pressing issue is the furnace heat register in front bedroom puts out just a hint of heat. The rear bunkhouse has no register at all. Other trailer to trailer differences from what I saw locally to what this one has were asked to be changed. The RV entrance doors are not on gas struts. That was something I really think I wanted and was seen locally, I also wanted the Stereo that was blue tooth enabled but what is in my particular trailer is not. All in all it was not a bad experience the only think I don’t like about the trailer is the heat output. I had this thing on 90 and it did not produce sufficient heat. Dealer checked it out and claimed no kinks and that the front bedroom is low output because it is the furthest register away from furnace. Dealer said Keystone 320 TG does not have a rear bunkhouse heat register. I have not called keystone myself but this is just an example of Keystone being cheap. Once is needed in the bunkhouse and also bathroom. This is where kids and women frequent and “no heat” is “no good”. Outside of the heat issue no other significant issues found.

My CONs are:
1) I don’t like the pass thru storage door on the driver side. It is a small entrance but there ain't nothing can do about that.

2) The location of battery at the top of the A frame makes it pretty tight (if even possible) for a group 31 battery. I have yet to try it.

3) The water pressure seemed a bit low but the pump is way in the front and the fixtures are mid cabin or way in the back.

It also has the new Alpha ply roof material so we will see how this holds up. The PDI on this site served me well. The only thing I noticed when I got home is there is no stopper for the tub. The Pull back was uneventful even in 25 -40 knot winds the ride was good with the equalizer and the suburban 2500 8.1 4:10. There was no 18 wheeler push /pull when they passed, no sway and no white knuckles over the 500 miles. On the way up I think I averaged 10 MPG. On the way back it dropped to 8.6. I am Looking forward to camping next weekend. Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
Regards,
J