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Old 02-12-2019, 12:41 PM   #41
AlpineKeith
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Thanks for all the info fellow campers. Looking into DRW's.
And I thought scuba diving was expensive!! Ha
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:51 PM   #42
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That's a good call. In a few years you won't remember how much the extra cost hurt (at least, that's what I tell myself )

I know we feel a lot better having made the change to a more capable tow vehicle.
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:58 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by AlpineKeith View Post
Thanks for all the info fellow campers. Looking into DRW's.
And I thought scuba diving was expensive!! Ha
While I didn’t find used DRW much more than SRW one tons, I did find them hard to find! The one we bought was at dealership over 300 miles away.
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:19 PM   #44
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While I didn’t find used DRW much more than SRW one tons, I did find them hard to find! The one we bought was at dealership over 300 miles away.
I'm finding that out also. At the 300 mile mark now!
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:47 PM   #45
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I don't want to start a Ford vs. Chevy debate, but I really like the GMC Denali line. When we realized we had to replace our 2018 GMC Yukon Denali with a truck, we shopped for Ford F350s, Ram 3500s (a little), Chevy 3500s and GMC 3500s.

Both the wife and I really liked the GMC Sierra 3500 Denali - both interior and exterior, and were able to find a few examples of brand new trucks being sold at a 10k+ discount off of MSRP.

This truck doesn't have the same payload as some of the lower-trim level F350s do, but it has more than enough for anything we ever plan to tow.

Just keep in mind as you're looking...
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Old 02-12-2019, 05:14 PM   #46
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Thanks for all the info fellow campers. Looking into DRW's.

And I thought scuba diving was expensive!! Ha

Lol, I used to dive and I think it cost less than this hobby.
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:08 PM   #47
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While I didn’t find used DRW much more than SRW one tons, I did find them hard to find! The one we bought was at dealership over 300 miles away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineKeith View Post
I'm finding that out also. At the 300 mile mark now!
Well don't know your preferences, I am a Ram person, I also needed a TV with power seats due to leg cramps. Needed at least an SLT with optional power seats, or higher trim level.
About half were Tradesmen or ST's no power seats. I also wanted a long bed. I used www.cargurus.com and auto trader as part of the hunt. I also used a build sheet site for Ram so I could see exactly the options on the truck. https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing.

If you are a Ford person, I am sure you can find a similar tool to make the hunt easier.

Was it worth the 300+ miles and an 18 hour day to buy our Ram, yes we do feel so. ended up with a 2016 Laramie CTD with Aisin trans, and 3.73 gears DRW at 27,500 miles.
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Old 02-17-2019, 08:18 AM   #48
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funny this just came up. I spent a good 1/2 hour on the phone with ford this week, trying to find out why my f250 6.7 sb only has a weight capacity of 2036 payload per my door sticker. Rear axle is 6100 lbs, front axle is apprx 5000 lbs. GVWR is 10K. tires a rated at 3050 @ 65 psi cold. yest side walls say 3450 at 80psi. ford says the 2000lbs is computer generated, and could not explain where the other 1k lbs of capacity whent.
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Old 02-17-2019, 08:38 AM   #49
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The payload is basically the GVWR minus the truck's actual weight as it came from the factory. The payload is not determined by the max load ratings of the axles or tires, except they need to be rated high enough to support the truck's GVWR.

What 1000 lbs of missing capacity are you referring to?
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Old 02-17-2019, 08:39 AM   #50
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Snoopy,

Maybe reading this link will help ???

https://www.tfltruck.com/2018/07/ask...s-rating-gvwr/
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Old 02-17-2019, 09:14 AM   #51
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Well I can see where you would question the payload number. With a 10,000# GVWR and a 2036# payload that would mean your truck weighs close to 8,000#. Thats a pretty heavy truck!
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Old 02-17-2019, 09:15 AM   #52
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Pulled a 16k sob with a Chev dually dmax and Allison. Very comfortable tow.

My current 2014 Chevy 2500HD 4x2 gasser has a 3100 payload. Diesel motor eats up a lot of the payload.
You made the right choice. Happy camping.
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Old 02-17-2019, 09:55 AM   #53
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wouldn't that be nice.. wait there are already sites that have great calculators for all this data... but how do we get new folks to find them.. dealers will not do that..
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:11 AM   #54
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The payload is basically the GVWR minus the truck's actual weight as it came from the factory. The payload is not determined by the max load ratings of the axles or tires, except they need to be rated high enough to support the truck's GVWR.

What 1000 lbs of missing capacity are you referring to?
I think he is looking at the sum of the two axle ratings ~11,500 and the truck GVWR 10,000...

the truck rating is a class thing.. in many states any truck OVER 10,000lbs gvwr is OBVIOUSLY a commercial vehicle... and requires different tax and registration requirements...

SO, truck manufacturers LABEL a truck as 10,000 lbs to be UNDER 10,001, which would make it commercial.. , this label saves their customers MONEY and trouble.

the 350/3500s have the same problem at 11500...

has NOTHING to do with the ACTUAL truck mechanicals... only the paper tag.
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:36 AM   #55
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The OP has no issues with 80lbs. Especially since this:.

https://youtu.be/AyXgMal3C1U
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Old 02-17-2019, 11:34 AM   #56
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funny this just came up. I spent a good 1/2 hour on the phone with ford this week, trying to find out why my f250 6.7 sb only has a weight capacity of 2036 payload per my door sticker. Rear axle is 6100 lbs, front axle is apprx 5000 lbs. GVWR is 10K. tires a rated at 3050 @ 65 psi cold. yest side walls say 3450 at 80psi. ford says the 2000lbs is computer generated, and could not explain where the other 1k lbs of capacity whent.
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Hardly anyone will take the time to read all the rules and regulations that are used to determine the final vehicle certification results by their manufacturers.


Within those rules and regulations are provisions that the vehicle manufacturer MUST apply. The tires and axles MUST provide a percentage of load capacity reserves. When the axles provide more load capacity than necessary to support the vehicle GVWR it's load capacity reserves. When the tires provide - via inflation - more load capacity than is required to support the GAWR they are fitted to, it's load capacity reserves. When an owner uses replacement tires to gain load capacity they are only providing load capacity reserves.


("The FMVSS have requirements for the manufacturer to use proper tires and rims for the gross axle weight rating (GAWR) and the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). The manufacturer may determine the GVWR by adding cargo capacity (if any) to the curb weight of the vehicle as manufactured. The wise consumer, before purchase, will determine if the vehicle has sufficient cargo capacity to carry the weight of water, additional equipment (such as televisions, and microwave ovens), and luggage. The manufacturer’s certification label must show the GVWR. The GVWR must not be exceeded by overloading the vehicle. There is little the government can do to assist a consumer who has purchased a vehicle that has insufficient cargo capacity for its intended use.")
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Old 02-17-2019, 12:13 PM   #57
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Don't freak out my guess is over half the folks towing are over loaded one way or another, it don't make it right but that's the way it is . Make sure your tires have load index at least 3500 each invest in air bags .
I would have bet money someone would suggest better tires and air bags. Here's where that gets you:
https://youtu.be/rJuoc0OpxRE

I love the peace of mind as well as the weight ratings/capabilities of our 2017 F350 DRW!
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Old 02-17-2019, 01:04 PM   #58
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I would have bet money someone would suggest better tires and air bags. Here's where that gets you:
https://youtu.be/rJuoc0OpxRE

I love the peace of mind as well as the weight ratings/capabilities of our 2017 F350 DRW!

But, the salesman told me it would pull anything on the lot!!
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Old 02-17-2019, 01:30 PM   #59
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scale info: Truck Only: Steer axle 4860
Drive axle 3540
Gross Wt 8400
Truck and Trailer: Steer Axle 4840
Drive axle 6180
Trailer Axle 9960
Gross Wt 20980


I noticed that your steer axle weight went down by 20 lbs when you have the trailer attached. This would seem to indicate that your pin is slightly aft of the rear axel, and at least 20 of your 80 lbs is from lifting the front end. Since I don't have one, I don't know much about fifth wheel hitches, but my brother has one, and his hitch slides forward for driving, and aft for maneuvering. Could you possibly have yours in the aft position? You might try to move your hitch forward, just an inch or two, and get a little of that weight forward.
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Old 02-17-2019, 04:35 PM   #60
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This got me looking around a little bit, and I found this on another forum

The proper location is forward of the rear axle by whatever amount the bed length and front suspension can tolerate. The further forward it is, a couple things happen and they can be either good or bad, depending on the truck capability. The weight gets distributed across both truck axles, which helps the rear and loads the front. It also makes maneuvering easier when backing (better steering angles) but increases the lag in turns when going forward (the trailer "cuts the corner" more. The main consideration is the potential for a cab strike in a sharp turn.

Few 3/4 ton or one truck trucks have an overload problem on the front axle and can tolerate more weight, at least within the limits that a 5W Rv could be positioned on a pick-up truck.

A real hitch pro would want to see the actual trailer, make measurements on permissible turn angles, check the front & rear axle GAWRs vs pin weight, and inquire about possible future upgrades. Few shops do that - they just select an arbitrary position, usually a few inches ahead of the rear axle, kind of a "one place fits all" solution.


For what it's worth. You seem to have plenty of room an the steering axel, shifting the pin as far forward as you can without hitting anything should fix your problem.
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