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Old 10-19-2015, 05:53 PM   #1
Yosemitebob
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110v to the Refrigerator

So a simple question. Why is there 110v going to the refrigerator? When power is off and running on 12v the refrigerator still works just fine. I can unplug that power cord (coming from the refrigerator) and it still works along with the 12v light inside. OK, waiting for someone that really knows.

Bob
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:09 PM   #2
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OK, been doing some research, and of course it uses both. So with that in mind, what happens when it is not getting 110v from a source. Does it still cool as we travel down the highway, as long as the propane is on of course? Or does it have to have both to work properly?
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:33 PM   #3
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110 is for the heating element in the flue. It is used in place of the flame on LP. The 12V is needed to operate the control board and the igniter.

If the refer is set to "auto" the board will choose 110 if it's available and if not and the LP is turned on will start the flame. Once you plug into 110 the board will sense it and shut off the flame and start heating the element.

Hope that explains it.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:10 PM   #4
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Chuckster57 - thank you very much that indeed makes sense, but...that being said, is their still a draw on the 110v side when it is in LP mode with 12v?

I ask this because my inverter is tied into the Receptacle line only. And, of course the refrigerator is part of that line.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:21 PM   #5
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If the fridge is set to Propane/LP, there will be no draw on the 110VAC but it will still require and use 12VDC for the control board. To make things simple, just leave your fridge on AUTO and it will select whatever power is available ---110 or propane. The default is 110VAC which will take precedence over propane.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:40 PM   #6
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Thank you so much both of you. You have answered my question in its entirety. What a place you all have here.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:17 AM   #7
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If you have an inverter, is it automatic or do you have to switch it "on".

INVERTER makes 110VAC from 12VDC.

CONVERTER makes 12VDC from 110VAC

Converter is standard equipment, and is used when your plugged into shore power to supply 12V to trailer and charge battery(s).

Inverters are used to power 110 appliances when your not plugged into shore power. Common for units with household refers.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:17 AM   #8
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It is automatic, the auto transfer switch is built in. That was a must when I was researching for one. I also have a manual switch on the remote. I should also say it is hard wired, that was also a must for me.
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosemitebob View Post
So a simple question. Why is there 110v going to the refrigerator? When power is off and running on 12v the refrigerator still works just fine. I can unplug that power cord (coming from the refrigerator) and it still works along with the 12v light inside. OK, waiting for someone that really knows.

Bob
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosemitebob View Post
Chuckster57 - thank you very much that indeed makes sense, but...that being said, is their still a draw on the 110v side when it is in LP mode with 12v?

I ask this because my inverter is tied into the Receptacle line only. And, of course the refrigerator is part of that line.
I am confused ... In your original post you ask about fridge on 12v or 110v ..... no mention of propane. Do you have a residential style refrigerator or a rv gas/electric style.
Most units that come from the factory with an inverter have residential refers that only run on 110v ac. (shore power or gen-set) ... thus the need for the inverter and auto transfer switch.

If you have a rv style fridge ... running it on gas while not on shore power will be the most efficient since the inverter will drain batteries very quickly.
The info you have supplied is not enough for a good answer.
JM2˘, Hank
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankpage View Post
I am confused ... In your original post you ask about fridge on 12v or 110v ..... no mention of propane. Do you have a residential style refrigerator or a rv gas/electric style.
Most units that come from the factory with an inverter have residential refers that only run on 110v ac. (shore power or gen-set) ... thus the need for the inverter and auto transfer switch.

If you have a rv style fridge ... running it on gas while not on shore power will be the most efficient since the inverter will drain batteries very quickly.
The info you have supplied is not enough for a good answer.
JM2˘, Hank
Hank, your reading more than necessary into my first question. I know it runs on 12v as I said, I was just curious if it also used 110 while running on 12v, which was answered already. Yes, I know it runs on propane and I mentioned that in the very next post. I did get some great answers that answered all my concerns. To answer one your yours no I do not have a residential refrigerator. My inverter is was never intended for the refer, as I mentioned again, but I was concerned as to the draw "IF" it did use 110 while on 12v, that was also answered. I'm not be a smart guy, so please don't take it that way. But your question is mindful as to what others read into it, so I must be more careful in the future. Thank you for your comments.

Bob
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:15 PM   #11
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I am not trying to be a wise guy either but I am still seeing some confusion here. Unless ordered special, your fridge does not run on 12v. dc. Both 110v ac and gas modes require 12v for the control board and ignition, but the actual cooling is either 110 or gas. Maybe what is confusing me is your reference to running on 12v in several places.
I am glad that you feel you have received the answers you needed to travel down the road keeping the adult beverages cold for when you arrive at camp.
Travel safely, Hank
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:48 PM   #12
Yosemitebob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankpage View Post
I am not trying to be a wise guy either but I am still seeing some confusion here. Unless ordered special, your fridge does not run on 12v. dc. Both 110v ac and gas modes require 12v for the control board and ignition, but the actual cooling is either 110 or gas. Maybe what is confusing me is your reference to running on 12v in several places.
I am glad that you feel you have received the answers you needed to travel down the road keeping the adult beverages cold for when you arrive at camp.
Travel safely, Hank
Oh my, I see where your going with this. I think I was thinking (which I should not have) of a camper I have, that has a refer that does run entirely on 12v, 110, and LP, but it really drains the battery fast on 12v. But no the 5th wheel is the standard refer that comes with it and yes I realize now the control board is a 12v unit by itself, regardless what mode it is in. So there would be a draw on the battery at all times, if I read this right. I just learned something here myself, besides being more clear on what I write. To be honest I was only looking at will it not drain my battery while stopped and/or boondocking, I didn't look further into the working of the unit altogether. With your above post, I just realized what is working and not working on assorted power supply, which is also a good thing to know. Oh, I thought I had received the answers I need, but now I know a lot more, that is both useful and enlightening.
Thank you for your explanation and your response to a stubborn old buy.

Sincerely,
Bob
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:16 AM   #13
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Just one more thought. You said the refer is plugged into the same circuit that is being powered by your inverter. If that is the case, when you turn in the inverter, the refer will sense 110v and switch from gas to 110. You can prevent that by turning your refer manually to gas or by unplugging the refer's 110v cord.
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