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Old 02-23-2014, 10:26 AM   #1
Al Sandoval
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Exclamation Loading Harley

Need help firts time we are loading a HD Ultra on Fuzion 322
It's better to load and unload when hook to tow Vehicle
Or does not make it Difference
Thanks
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:44 AM   #2
spicercars
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It really doesn't make to much difference but the camper doesn't move as much with it hooked up. I have an easy time loading my Goldwing but it a different story rolling down the ramp backwards.
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Old 02-23-2014, 01:10 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sandoval View Post
Need help firts time we are loading a HD Ultra on Fuzion 322
It's better to load and unload when hook to tow Vehicle
Or does not make it Difference
Thanks
Makes no difference if you are level.
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Old 02-23-2014, 01:13 PM   #4
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I'd add one thing, and keep in mind that I've never done this. I'd deploy the rear jacks to keep the back end from dipping or anything.
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:46 AM   #5
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I don't think it really makes a difference, but my personal preference is to load my Softail while hitched. But I can see circumstances where overall length with the ramp down my be a factor.

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Old 02-24-2014, 01:09 PM   #6
gh517
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I lift the front quite a bit to lessen the angle of the ramp.I'm alittle height impaired and don't like not touching the ground when the bike is between the ground and ramp. We have a Fuzion 315
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:53 PM   #7
Al Sandoval
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Got it loaded no problems
Little scary going up the ramp fast and have to stop quick
So don't hit the wall on trailer
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:02 AM   #8
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When I unload ours I leave motor off and trans in first gear one hand on front brake and other on clutch letting it out to help keep bike slow on the down slope ,Just my 2 cents
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:53 AM   #9
Al Sandoval
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I will try that thanks
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:39 AM   #10
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Got it loaded no problems
Little scary going up the ramp fast and have to stop quick
So don't hit the wall on trailer
Are you using a front wheel chock? If not, Id suggest the Condor model. I have it in my Raptor 300 MP. IMO, the best out there. Made from aluminum and removable so it gets out of the way of the garage. Check it out.

http://store.condor-lift.com/product...er-Adaptor-Kit
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:30 PM   #11
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Are you using a front wheel chock? If not, Id suggest the Condor model. I have it in my Raptor 300 MP. IMO, the best out there. Made from aluminum and removable so it gets out of the way of the garage. Check it out.

http://store.condor-lift.com/product...er-Adaptor-Kit
I was thinking the wheeldock or the Condor. How hard is it to pull the bike out of the Condor?
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Old 02-26-2014, 05:07 PM   #12
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I was thinking the wheeldock or the Condor. How hard is it to pull the bike out of the Condor?
Easy. It can be done with the bike in neutral.
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:34 PM   #13
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i would drop the back jacks

drop em if you are un hooked. if you have never unloaded a bike from a th it is slightly higher than say an open trailer. this is the best way from getting hurt or dropping your bike. the front brakes are almost useless when backing down the ramp because it will slide. leave it in gear (NOT RUNNING) use the clutch to keep the bike from getting away from you. ease it out and in slightly with the front brakes and walk er down. my dad has a trike all you have to do for one of those is ride it off.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:14 PM   #14
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Yes i got the same
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Old 02-27-2014, 05:58 AM   #15
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I agree with all of the above. I have the Condor wheel chock and really like it. It is very well built. It helps tremendously when loading the bike because it can support the bike while you get off and finish securing the bike with straps. The chock is adjustable to different wheel sizes which makes it easy to remove the bike when secured in the chock. Yes I am a fan.

I also agree with using the clutch method described above. My first attempt at loading my Goldwing into my TH was almost a disaster! My TH does not have a dovetail in the loading area that reduces the ramp angle into the trailer. I parked the TH on a level surface and proceeded to load my bike into the trailer when the bike high centered on the transition from the ramp into the trailer!!! The edge of the ramp caught the louvers on my bikes belly pan and I was temporarily stuck halfway in/out at the top of the ramp. I had to muscle the bike loose. When I did I slid down the ramp backwards with my front brakes locked! Luckily I came straight down and didn't have time to panic or think. The bike stopped at the bottom of the ramp, no harm other than some bent louvers on the bikes belly pan.

The next time I loaded and unloaded I did several things differently. Your situation may be different if your trailer has the dovetail in the cargo area. Mine does not so to reduce the angle of the transition from the ramp into the cargo area:
1. I unhitched the trailer and raised the tongue to the highest position.
2. I lowered the stabilizing jacks at the rear of the trailer.
3. I used car ramps and a piece of plywood at the end of the ramp.

This worked for me. I would like a better solution than the car ramps and plywood, maybe a hinged ramp extension, but I'm not a welder.

Hope this helps you out.

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Old 02-27-2014, 07:04 PM   #16
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looks good

I chose the pingel mounts they have little brackets that bolt to the floor. then I clip the chocks in. later I learned to put a block under the bikes them ratchet them down till tight and solid. no collapsing the shocks and no bouncing and coming un hooked. I bought heavy piano hinge and did the whole ramp. now backing out I learned the hard way. with the bike shut off leave it in gear use the clutch as the back brakes and the front brakes in conjunction. it works well. and is soo much safer than hoping you don't drop the bike
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:20 PM   #17
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As previously noted, if my Raptor 30FS is level, my Electra-Glide Classic will bottom out at the ramp transition into the garage. On my second time loading I had to go up the ramp at a good clip because the ramp was steep; when it bottomed out it pulled the kick-stand spring out of its mount and straightened the spring's hook. From now on I follow the previous advise by raising the front end as high as I can then lowering the stablizing jacks just so they touch the ground. I do the same when unloading because that "non-skid" coating is a lot slicker then you'd think. When unloading before I actually slid down the ramp with both wheels locked; front with the brake and the trans in first gear. Now THAT'S scary, especially when you get to the end of the ramp!
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:06 PM   #18
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With my Harley Ultra Classic, I originally used the clutch to bring the bike down the ramp. Talking to the guys at the Harley shop, they said that was a bad idea and could damage the engine with it turning over and backwards with no oil pressure. Now I use the back brake and front brake together, have the bike in 1st gear and pull the clutch all the way out. You have to balance the bike with one leg, but if you go slow, it works well. I also raise the front of the RV to get the shallowest angle on the ramp. When you get to the bottom, it's a leap of faith to get the bike all the way off. I've seen where others have put boards on the sides of the ramp to put your feet on to help this.


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Old 02-28-2014, 03:32 AM   #19
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Mover480 dont left the retards at the stealership steer you wrong ,using the clutch method will NOT hurt the motor its not like you are going along distance when backing down the ramp.I to work on custom cycles
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:14 PM   #20
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tell em crash

it dosent hurt to back 8-10 feet what hurts was when we were walking my bike down the ramp with my dad pushing the back brake while I held it up and used the front brake. then my 82 year old dad fell on his face. don't worry about the bike. don't hurt yourself or others getting the thing down the ramp. however, it will tear one to heck if you use the clutch with the ENGINE RUNNING.
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