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Old 02-02-2014, 10:47 AM   #1
pnwham
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Solar Panel mounting and cable routing

I'm new to the forum, having just ordered a Montana High Country 293RK. We came from a Lazy Daze class C motorhome and do a fair amount of dry camping at Bluegrass Festivals. As a result, I plan to add 300 watts of solar and 4 6V golf cart batteries. While I wait for delivery, I can't help thinking about how I will mount the panels and route the cables to the battery compartment. Since the Lazy Daze had an aluminum roof, I'm not at all familiar with rubber roofs. Can I just pick a good spot for the panels and screw the mounts thru the rubber and seal the area? If so, what length screws are appropiate and what should be used for the sealer? Also, how do most of you route the cable? My rig will have a dryer prep, and wonder if it is vented to the roof and could be used. Thanks for any help or advice. Rich in Birch Bay, WA
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:31 PM   #2
Festus2
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Rich -
Since you can't lay the solar panels directly on the rubber roof, you need to secure the panel to the roof with mounting brackets or "feet". These may come with panel(s) or ordered separately - probably at the same supplier of the panels.

I would suggest that you use #14 1" SS screws and Dicor EPDM sealant - not the self-leveling kind. Do not use silicone or any sealant that contains petroleum distillates.

After you have chosen a place to mount the panels, drill guide holes for the feet/mounting brackets. Squeeze some Dicor into each hole and onto the threads of each screw. Squeeze some Dicor onto the base of the mounting bracket/feet and secure it to the roof. There is plywood under the rubber and try, if you can, not to place the mounting bracket where two sheets are joined together. The screw won't bite as well if it goes into the space between the two sheets. Cover the screws with a good dab of Dicor when finished.

The routing for the wires, if possible, should go down through one of your vents - kitchen stove vent? dryer vent? or some other route so that you don't have to drill any more holes in the roof to route the wires into the coach.

Not sure if you plan on mounting 1 or 2 solar panels to provide 300w but it sounds like 2 might be required.


Good luck with your project and welcome to the forum.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:02 AM   #3
pnwham
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Thanks, Festus2 for the info. 1 inch screws kind of surprises me as it looks like the plywood roof underlayment is only 3/8 in. thick. Have you actually used 1 in. screws on the roof? I sure don't want to see them on the ceiling. Yes, I will be using feet that provide 3/4 in clearance between roof and panel. I hope that is enough with the curved roof; I do plan to mount them lengthwise on the roof so the curve will be on the narrow side of the panels so I don't think that should be a problem. I sure hope that the washer or dryer prep includes venting to the roof, cuz that would seem to be the best cable routing as the rear kitchen kind of precludes using the refer vent. The W/D prep is right at the front, so would allow for relatively short cables to the battery compartment.
Thanks again, been reviewing all the posts on this forum, lots of good information. Sure looking forward to getting our new rig.
Rich - Birch Bay, WA - How about them Hawks!!!!
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:04 AM   #4
Festus2
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Rich -
No, I haven't used 1" screws but with the 3/8" plywood, the insulated attic and the 1/8' luan ceiling, I don't think there would be any danger of the screw poking through the luan ceiling. If you are concerned, perhaps a 3/4 - 7/8 inch might do the job just as well.

The 1" screw was suggested in an article I read about installing solar panels on the roof.
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:17 PM   #5
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RV Roofs usually are at least 4" and often 6" thick or thicker. There is the EPDM membrane, adhesive, 3/8" OSB/plywood, open space created by rafters, A/C ducting, insulation, and on the inside, 1/8" or 3/16" luan paneling. If you think about it, the A/C ductwork is at least 2" thick, so there is a minimum of at least 2.75" even without "space for insulation.

There's no way a 1" screw is going to penetrate the inside ceiling from the membrane. It is possible, however, that the screw may hit some wiring, a vent, ducting or possibly a rafter. If the rafters are wooden, the screw will hold much better than if it's only in the OSB sheeting, but if it hits a steel rafter, it possibly could be deflected and make an oblong hole in the OSB causing it to strip out or not hold securely. However, if the legs are set in DICOR and the screws are inserted with DICOR and then DICOR is used to seal the heads of the screws and the top surface of the legs, there's not much chance of a screw backing out, it would have to pull out or rot out to become loose.

The reason, I think, to use 1" screws is to ensure the tapered end of the screw is all the way through the 3/8" OSB to assure a better grip. If the tapered end of the screw is partially inside the OSB, the particles of wood may separate slightly causing the screw not to hold properly. Screwing into OSB is not nearly as secure as screwing into solid wood.
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Old 02-03-2014, 02:56 PM   #6
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Just to add re washer dryer prep vent, every one I've seen in a 5th wheel includes water plumbing and drain but no exhaust vent prep. There is usually a sticker on the side wall that says "place vent here" or something similar, just like the stickers they put for an optional tv mounting location.
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