Inverter Prep?

[sahively]

Michmark, keep in mind there's a lot more to gauge then just the recommendation of the inverter manufacturer. Toss what they say out the window and determine your own gauge needs--1/0 might be ok for very short runs at 3000 watts but I suspect you'll want more than that.
Second, I'm not totally certain I'm following but you want to run the wires directly from the inverter to the battery. Don't go through any box.

[Michmark]

I plan on running the cables from the batteries right to the inverter but I also thought the 'Giggy box' had to be powered from the batteries also. My question was more with my setup (having the inverter and batteries in the front compartment, is there any other way to run a set of cables from the batteries to the Giggy box other than drilling through?

I would think with lithium batteries becoming more common, manufacturers would run some kind of conduit from the front of the trailer into the front compartment rather than making people drill through their brand new trailer to complete this setup.

[sahively]

Drill baby, drill. 99 out of 100 owners don't attempts this themselves so the manufacturers won't make it simple. We're the odd ones.

[Michmark]

Thanks for the quick replies! I already knew what the answer was, just didn't want to have to do it so wanted to know if anybody else had any ideas.

Is it empty space under the front compartment? I did notice wiring coming out of the front of the trailer from somewhere under the front compartment.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Michmark

I plan on running the cables from the batteries right to the inverter but I also thought the 'Giggy box' had to be powered from the batteries also. My question was more with my setup (having the inverter and batteries in the front compartment, is there any other way to run a set of cables from the batteries to the Giggy box other than drilling through?

I would think with lithium batteries becoming more common, manufacturers would run some kind of conduit from the front of the trailer into the front compartment rather than making people drill through their brand new trailer to complete this setup.

Leave the trailer leads alone. If you have 2 batteries use the opposite posts for the inverter. The “giggy box” is simply a high tech junction box. EVERY trailer has that junction be it a metal box or the giggy box.

[Michmark]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Leave the trailer leads alone. If you have 2 batteries use the opposite posts for the inverter. The “giggy box” is simply a high tech junction box. EVERY trailer has that junction be it a metal box or the giggy box.

For the inverter prep wire, does the non-load side go to the junction or giggy box?

Running the inverter from the batteries is not my mind block, how does the giggy box get powered or the batteries get recharged that way? I can re-route the solar controller inside the compartment, that is not a problem but I understood the SAE connection on the front (for the 2nd solar controller, which I intend to use also) ran into the Giggy box. How does the giggy box get powered by the batteries or will the inverter take care of that?

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by sahively

Drill baby, drill. 99 out of 100 owners don't attempts this themselves so the manufacturers won't make it simple. We're the odd ones.

made me think of Tony Beets from Gold Rush

i was so tired from working the other day i developed a Tony Beets accent…took about an hour for it to wear off

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7y6kVdqavo

[chuckster57]

I haven’t missed a single episode. Watched Parker grow up, grandpa die and the Hoffmans lose big in Guiana

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I haven’t missed a single episode. Watched Parker grow up, grandpa die and the Hoffmans lose big in Guiana

you probably find yourself talking like Tony also then at times lol.. “letzz make it happen-ing”

[chuckster57]

Among others,

[rescue7]

Check this you tube for good info on install of inverter in Springdale

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GX1injMTEJQ

[kwils1]

[QUOTE=Michmark;531165]Hey Guys,

I picked up my 2022 Springdale 298BH today. I have a renogy 3000watt inverter (the big one with auto transfer and such) and 2 x 12v 240AH LifePO4 batteries. I want to hook up the inverter using the inverter prep in the front compartment. I have the proper gauge wiring according to Renogy (1/0).

Hi everybody, I just joined the forum because I'm trying to figure out the "inverter prep" wiring in an Outback 328RL that I may be purchasing in the near future. I've been using Renogy products for several years and I don't think that any of their inverters have auto transfer switches. The inverter-chargers do, but if you used one of those models, is it possible to disable battery charging and use the trailer's stock converter or would you turn off / remove the converter and use the Renogy battery charging function instead?

[kwils1]

Originally Posted by Michmark

For the inverter prep wire, does the non-load side go to the junction or giggy box?

Running the inverter from the batteries is not my mind block, how does the giggy box get powered or the batteries get recharged that way? I can re-route the solar controller inside the compartment, that is not a problem but I understood the SAE connection on the front (for the 2nd solar controller, which I intend to use also) ran into the Giggy box. How does the giggy box get powered by the batteries or will the inverter take care of that?

I'm considering doing the same thing and keeping the batteries in the front compartment as I've done on other trailers (especially if they're big, expensive lithium batteries). If you remove the batteries from the a-frame, I would install positive and negative bus bars inside the compartment, pull the free ends of the now disconnected battery cables from the frame into the compartment and connect them to the bus bars (if the cables are too short to be pulled into the compartment, you can install bus bars on the a-frame and run cables from inside the compartment out to the frame). Connect the compartment batteries to the bus bars and the giggy box and battery disconnect will once again work as they did when the batteries were outside. You can then set up your inverter, fuses/breakers, solar charger, wiring and disconnects inside the compartment.

[zinger290kb]

i have the yellow cable and i want to install a renogy 2000 watt inverter with pure sine wave tech on it. From reading this form i understand i have to cut it the yellow wire to connect the hot on my inverter but i only have and out put for the wires on my inverter. Do i connect all wires to the port?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by zinger290kb

i have the yellow cable and i want to install a renogy 2000 watt inverter with pure sine wave tech on it. From reading this form i understand i have to cut it the yellow wire to connect the hot on my inverter but i only have and out put for the wires on my inverter. Do i connect all wires to the port?

Welcome to the forum

Your inverter should have 3 sets of inputs/outputs.

AC in
AC out
DC in

Your yellow Romex is a loop. You need to cut it with the power OFF. Then determine which side is HOT when plugged into shore/generator. That Romex goes to AC IN. The other side goes to AC out.

DC in is for the leads coming from the battery(s).

Does your inverter have “pass through”? If not you’ll need to wire it differently with a transfer switch.

[jxnbbl]

Originally Posted by kwils1

... The inverter-chargers do, but if you used one of those models, is it possible to disable battery charging and use the trailer's stock converter or would you turn off / remove the converter and use the Renogy battery charging function instead?

I can tell you the Xantrex XC (inverter/charger) can not have the charger disabled. This will result in the cooling fan being active when it gets warm enough...even though you are not using the inverter (you're plugged into shore power).

Xantrex does inverters with the transfer switch build in.

[kwils1]

Originally Posted by jxnbbl

I can tell you the Xantrex XC (inverter/charger) can not have the charger disabled. This will result in the cooling fan being active when it gets warm enough...even though you are not using the inverter (you're plugged into shore power).

Xantrex does inverters with the transfer switch build in.

I've always used Xantrex inverters in the past and I still have a Prosine 1,800 watt model in my garage. I like the availability of a built-in transfer switch. The trailer I'm considering has two "inverter prep" setups and the unit I looked at had a Xantrex Freedom X 2,000 watt model already installed. I couldn't really get a good look at the wiring, but my biggest question is if the "prep" is just a Romex loop, where does it start and where does it end? Is there a subpanel somewhere? The trailer has a 50 amp main panel, with (I'm assuming) two 120 volt hot leads, L1 and L2, neutral and ground leads. There's only one breaker in the panel marked "inverter". Inverted circuits need an "in" and an "out" with a transfer switch that sends power to selected circuits when shore (or generator) power isn't available. Any ideas?

[jxnbbl]

Originally Posted by kwils1

I've always used Xantrex inverters in the past and I still have a Prosine 1,800 watt model in my garage. I like the availability of a built-in transfer switch. The trailer I'm considering has two "inverter prep" setups and the unit I looked at had a Xantrex Freedom X 2,000 watt model already installed. I couldn't really get a good look at the wiring, but my biggest question is if the "prep" is just a Romex loop, where does it start and where does it end? Is there a subpanel somewhere? The trailer has a 50 amp main panel, with (I'm assuming) two 120 volt hot leads, L1 and L2, neutral and ground leads. There's only one breaker in the panel marked "inverter". Inverted circuits need an "in" and an "out" with a transfer switch that sends power to selected circuits when shore (or generator) power isn't available. Any ideas?

That inverter look is most likely the circuit that is labeled inverter and the loop is prior to the first outlet in the circuit. But you said that there is already an inverter installed? I take it may be a used trailer and the original owner may have done something else so one of the other circuits is used, but not labelled?

[chuckster57]

“Inverted” outlets will be on one leg of the 50A panel. The Romex should come from the circuit breaker to the outlets.

When you cut the Romex and add the inverter, if it has pass through ( internal transfer switch) then shore power simply comes from the breaker to the outlets through the inverter. Turn on the inverter and AC power is sent to the inverted outlets.

[kwils1]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

“Inverted” outlets will be on one leg of the 50A panel. The Romex should come from the circuit breaker to the outlets.

When you cut the Romex and add the inverter, if it has pass through ( internal transfer switch) then shore power simply comes from the breaker to the outlets through the inverter. Turn on the inverter and AC power is sent to the inverted outlets.

This is a brand new 2023 Outback 328RL. They are all now coming with solar and inverter prep. Some already have one inverter installed.The Xantrex inverter that's installed in this unit has a 30 amp built-in transfer switch. I guess the "AC out" side of the inverter just goes to the first of seven outlets of the inverted branch circuit and ends there, so it really isn't a loop, but more that the inverter interrupts the circuit. That won't be good enough for me as I will want some air-conditioning that's inverter powered. I see a bigger inverter, subpanel and some big lithium batteries in my future, lol...