What did you do to your RV today?

[Bill-2020]

That’s a great idea!

[RogerThat99]

Originally Posted by Bill-2020

I feel like buying a 5th wheel just so I can display my US flag like you have there. Good work!

I made a mount for the front and rear of my trailer out of heavy PVC. Painted it gloss black, and it blends right in. I use an approx 20' pole.

I don't have any pics, but will post some next time I go to storage. You can see the flag pole (green) on the tongue in this pic. The pole is a fiberglass, collapsible pole.
Attachment 36455

[Bandit12]

I bought a bolt on receiver that attaches to the bumper, a flag pole mount that goes in the receiver, and a collapsible flag pole and pole light. I use a locking hitch pin to secure the mount to the receiver and stow the pole and light in the cargo compartment and the flags inside the trailer. The close up pic is when I had the mount on my previous trailer, and the other pic is the newer, better pole and light on the back of the Cougar. Sorry about it being sideways, it looks right on my computer.

[falconatsea]

What did I do to my RV today?? Let's see... Ripped off the decorative trim in the bedroom slide for replacement, It is water damaged from the window being left open...chased 12v fuses for the wiring diagram because I am trying to figure out why I have no power to my pump or test functions to see where my levels are at, and replaced the battery... in the rain.

PS. Anyone familiar with Air Conditioning systems? I want to troubleshoot mine before I throw $1200 at it for no reason. PM me and I can give you the symptoms...

Eric
USN Aircrew - Retired
Southern MD

[bigdave_185]

Brand new to me so it’s getting some TLC

Today we cleaned every drawer, cupboard, crack and hole.

Moved all screwed down furniture and cleaned.

Washed all curtains and anything else I could pull off.

Tossed them gross mattresses for bunk beds and loft bed.

Took note of all exterior lights that need replaced and ordered accordingly.

Rebuilt the 50 power cord and plugged the trailer in.

Added 3/4 ply to inside of island to screw fold down countertop extension to and not just the floppy *** 1/4 material

Removed pocket door from masterbedroom room and ordered new rail.

[bigdave_185]

I have a simple wire question for anyone.

I have my right tail light not working correctly. I have power and I have bright for brake. Why can’t I get turn signal ?

[LHaven]

Well, that photo generates more questions than answers... and you have no .sig, so we don't even know the year of your unit, never mind the model...

Do you have LED rear lights or incandescent bulbs?

Usually, the "running" light in the rear lights is fed from a shared wire to both sides, while the brighter brake/turn light is driven from a dedicated wire to each side. You say you cn get brake but not turn signal, which is usually exactly the same filament, so your problem is puzzling indeed.

[bigdave_185]

I can’t help the error in the system for not updating my info but I can answer questions





I have the LED bars on the back (not sure if they are original or not.

[LHaven]

I wouldn't think a 2008 trailer would have LED running lights, but I'll defer to one of the pros for an answer. If it doesn't, I'd just try changing out the bulb first.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by bigdave_185

I have a simple wire question for anyone.

I have my right tail light not working correctly. I have power and I have bright for brake. Why can’t I get turn signal ?

Attachment 36518

This a little confusing. There are 3 circuits in the light socket. Ground, running (or clearance) light, and brake light. The turn signal and 4 way flashers are accomplished by breaking snd connecting the brake circuit.

The other picture you poeted is of your forum registration. That info does not populate to a signature. For a signature go to the top of the page and open "UserCP" then edit signature and when fijished click save.

[bigdave_185]

Been through both of those and I keep getting an error on Tapatalk and on the actual website I have it filled out there also.

But non the less I got it figured out.

Yes they were LED lights, not all of the lights but the long brake lights are led. I’ll convert the rest as I go around removing decal graphics snd polishing the oxidation out.





I had a blown fuse on the truck side. It gave me power but wouldn’t flash my lights.

Why is the easiest thing to check always the last thing?
Because my three other trailers haven’t had an issue I guess.
New fuse and off to the races

[jxnbbl]

We are off on our first trip with a trailer with just 12V powered fridge. As I don't want to plug in when we get to our destination for 4-5 days I looked at all the components that I thought we would need really just to run not only the 12V but about 150% of the 120V things that we would like to have when we stay at a Harvest Host, etc....without running the generator. Don't mind running that for the AC but coffee pot for 5 min etc. The trailer came with the Zamp prewiring for the panels and the inverter pre-wire (just a loop of romex exposed in the pass through for the inverter. Anyways the required cable (red/black 00 gauge) didn't come in in time for my battery/inverter connections...so just mounted 2 of the panels and charge controller, dual batteries and a secure battery box. Seems to work great. The mount in the pass through is just temporary as I have a planned layout when the inverter, shutoff and inverter fuse are added. There is one more panel for a total of 510W to be added too.

[Roper46]

Today I replaced the Convienence Center door gas struts with magnetic catches.

I'm 6'2" tall and got tired real fast of having to bend at the waist to get under that door. I've also hit my head on that door at least twice.

It took less than thirty minutes to remove the two struts and add the magnets. I also added silicone to all screw holes.

[jxnbbl]

Made a blowout valve with a quick connect for my compressor hose and hose connection for trailer. (credit pic from last weeks poster to push me to get the parts).
One tip regardless of "normal flow direction" ensure that the valve can be turned on/off when connected to the trailer. you will note that if the hose connector was on the other end, the handle would hit the trailer.

Winterized the new trailer.

[LHaven]

Got the front TV wheels rebalanced. Replaced both propane pigtails due to crispy leakage (one explosive) and refilled the bottle that emptied itself. Checked and wirebrushed the anode rod (barely frosted) and flushed the WH. Started the fridge. Aired the tires, greased the hitch, and verified all the TPMS dongles, including the one on the spare that got flakey last trip (that tire cover gets a real workout). Now we can provision and pack for our upcoming "long weekend away."

[Marinerjoe]

Originally Posted by jxnbbl

...so just mounted 2 of the panels and charge controller, dual batteries and a secure battery box.

Nice install. Looks like the TorkLift box. I’ll be putting mine in the battery tray after our next trip. My box is the PowerArmor Solar that fits two group 24’s. With the 200W panel on the roof, I won’t be bothering with the 10W on the top of the box.

[Marinerjoe]

We picked up our new 26RBS almost two weeks ago. So far I have:

• Installed RVLock wireless locks on front and rear doors
• Installed TV swing bracket and mounted TV in bedroom
• Shifted bumper-mounted spare to the left to access rear hitch
• Installed Furrion Vision S mount and camera on back
• Installed Andersen WDH (before leaving dealer)
• Swapped Dometic 310 toilet for 320
• Installed Mopeka propane sensors under both tanks
• Installed TorkLift propane tank lock
• Installed RVWhisper module and temperature sensor (works with the Mopeka sensors and Hughes Autoformer PWD50 EPO)
• Installed TST TPMS cap sensors on tires (including spare)
• Swapped power cord ring for Marinco EasyLock ring
• Installed Camco insect screens on furnace and water heater
• Mounted Snap Pads on leveler feet

After our upcoming trip I’ll be mounting a TorkLift dual battery box and getting a second battery, and will be mounting the TST repeater (although all the sensors including the spare are doing fine so far). Also will install winterizing bypass kit on suction side of water pump.

So far, after three nights in the camper, we are LOVING it!

[xrated]

Yesterday (Monday) I finished up a project that has been in the planning, parts gathering and pre-install stage for just over a month. So today, I finished installing a Class III hitch to the rear of the trailer. It will be used strictly for a bicycle rack....I won't be towing another vehicle or pulling a trailer behind my trailer.

The project started with dropping the Coroplast down and removing the insultation and Reflectix under the rear part of the garage area. Once that was done, the access to that area allowed me to formulate a plan for the hitch purchase and install details. So I measured the inside to inside span of the trailer main frame "H" beams and ordered two pieces of 4" steel channel to span that distance and rest on the bottom flanges of the frame beams. Since the hitch that I selected would not be able to clear the rear cross piece/frame member of the trailer, I also order two pieces of 3/4" thick by 3" wide solid steel flat stock to be able to shim it down and get the clearance needed for the install. So yesterday, a professional welder came to the house and welded in the 4" channel to the trailer main frame beams. I had already drilled all the holes and had the hitch loosely mounted to the channel. He complimented me on the fabrication work that I had done and told me it was an excellent job and was somewhat surprised at my choice of such heavy-duty material used. I would always chose overkill rather than "just enough" to get by, so the choice of material was obvious to me.

After he left, I painted all the new material and allowed it to dry, then torqued all of the Grade 8 bolts that hold the hitch to the new frame work, then cut some new 9" thick fiberglass insulation (the OEM insulation was not that thick) and put that in, along with the Reflectix material and the Coroplast back up. Sorry, didn't take any pics.

[bigdave_185]

Cleaned my grey and black thanks

Took about ten gallons of piping hot water and powder laundry soap in each grey and black tank and drove down the bumpy highway for a hour.

Then to the dump station armed with thick rubber gloves and the hose I purchased for flushing the system.


Ran that down the rv dump drain until water came out clear!!!

I’m happy with results and now have dumped some rv antifreeze into each drain and toilet.

The black drain valve is still really really stiff!! I’ll dump some veggie oil or I seen some pink valve lube at the Rv store in the spring and let it sit.

Unless someone say I can leave a gallon of water in my tanks over the winter freeze?

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by bigdave_185

Unless someone say I can leave a gallon of water in my tanks over the winter freeze?

Regardless how much you drain the tanks you can have up to a gallon or more left in them unless you rock the rv side to side & tilt it front to back several times.