[JRTJH]

First of all, a couple of cautions for you:

1. Straw bales hold humidity and I'm sure you've heard of barns burning down from wet hay being stacked in the loft. Around your RV, it's relatively warm under the RV so the bales will attract moisture, rodents and potentially can burn very easily if anything should go wrong... Be careful using anything organic around your RV.

2. There is no heat to your tanks or to any of the plumbing runs in the "basement/underbelly" unless your furnace is running, so leaving a heater on 68* inside won't do anything to protect your vulnerable parts under the floor. I'd urge you to replace the straw with 1" rigid foam construction sheets cut to fit and sealed with duct tape or gorilla tape. You might want to put a droplight with a 60 watt incandescent bulb under the trailer. If you place it near the ground under the tank valves, it will do wonders to keep them flowing when needed. Close your tank valves and dump only when it's warm and you've got enough time for the sun to help warm the sewer hose as it drains after dumping.

Now, usually the "Arctic Package" is advertised to be good to "below freezing". Normally it is, even in the "standard build" trailers. That, however, is true when the temperature rises above freezing during the day and the sun has a chance to warm up the RV. A few hours below freezing is usually tolerable, but days upon days below freezing are a challenge even for the premium and luxury built Keystone trailers.

A few hints, keep your cupboard doors open so warm cabin air can circulate through them and warm the plumbing in those areas, If you are going to be below freezing, unhook your water hose, drain it and store it in the passthrough. Use your water pump and fresh water tank for whatever you need. It's much easier to hook up a warmed flexible hose to fill the FWT than it is to try to unthaw a frozen hose attached to the trailer. Watch for humidity inside, it will make things seem cooler and will frost over the insides of the windows. 3/4" rigid foam sheets will help block heat loss through the larger windows and if cut to fit, can be removed during the day to let in light and the sun's warmth. Plan on using a 30 lb tank of propane every 3 or 4 days, if you can get a couple of 100 lb tanks, they will make the "change out" process less frequent and you'll have your smaller tanks for emergency if you do run out of propane.

I think that you'll be OK using these hints except for possibly next Friday night. But without knowing what the weather holds for the upcoming weeks, it will be a hassle to live in it for a few days, then abandon it, winterize it for a few days, then go back to the trailer when it warms up a bit. I'd think that it might be more realistic to decide when you'll winterize it and once you move out, plan to leave it winterized until the weather warms up enough to not play the musical house game....

I'm sure there is a lot more to consider that I haven't even touched upon. So, good luck staying warm.