Quote:
Originally Posted by Stircrazy
yup, if you blow a fuse or a wire breaks you will see up to 80 if there in series which is why you have to make sure the controller can handle the combined VOC. Plus, the output is never exactly 24V, that's just the classification of the panel just like how a 12V panel will output 17+ V to the controller. So, the working voltage for a 24V solar panel is approximately 32V so I would say you're running normally, what you got could even be a little high and if it is like that all the time, I wouldn't be that concerned about it. if it were always that high or gets higher, I would look for a source of extra resistance somewhere in the line, but it's not a lot higher than I would expect so it could just be an error in the voltage reading or a wire that is close to being maxed out and a bit extra resistance...
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So I get why one would be concerned about the voltage output for a single panel being used to provide maintenance for a 12 volt battery, but I see no usefulness in labeling a 34.2 Vmp panel a 24 volt panel. When installing my system 2 years ago I was concerned with how much current the 10 gauge wire would be carrying with 2 panels in series. The Renogy 60 moot controller was rated to handle 800 watts @ 12 volts and a maximum of 140 volts (VOC). I could have installed a 3rd panel in the series had the roof been able to accommodate it. I found no data from Rec that stated their panel was a “24 volt” (see the data sheet provided in a previous post).The panel manufacturer has no idea for what volt battery or system configuration it will be used. In my case the 2 280ah 12 volt LiPo4 batteries in parallel installation planning, didn’t require knowing a “category of 24 volts”.