[JRTJH]

I have sockets in every size imaginable, up to 2.5" and use them for "tractor work" on a regular basis. I find that it's much easier to just use two 10" crescent wrenches, I open one to fit the anode nut (slipped on it vertically, not sideways as is usual) and use the second wrench to fit the handle of the first so I can turn it to remove the anode rod. You'll need to reposition the wrench on the anode nut facings after each 1/6th turn, but I find that much easier to use what I have in the trailer tool bag rather than go get a heavy socket set (3/4" drive) just to remove one fitting.

As for FloJet fittings, during winterization, you need to "open" the line from the pump to the fresh water tank, to allow the strainer (if you don't have one on the pump inlet, you should) and the supply line to drain. Disconnecting the fitting at the pump will allow draining to occur so the strainer doesn't freeze and get damaged during the winter.

If you install a "T" valve in the supply line to the pump, you risk antifreeze leaking through the valve and into the fresh water tank. It's not toxic, but does impart a taste into the tank. I find it's easier to pull the blue tab, remove the strainer, let it drain and to insert a FloJet fitting with a 1/2" clear vinyl tube about 3' long on the inlet to the pump. I put the clear tube into a jug of antifreeze, turn on the pump and fill my fresh water lines by opening each faucet then closing them when antifreeze runs undiluted from the faucet. I start with the closest faucet and do all the cold, then do all the hot taps. Don't forget the outside shower and the low point drains.

I leave the strainer disconnected until spring, so there is room for expansion, if anything should "drip and fill the strainer". I haven't had that happen yet, but ....

Using two crescent wrenches makes removing the anode much easier than trying to keep track of the correct size socket, ratchet and extension.