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Old 05-25-2013, 09:34 PM   #3
ffbsm85
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norcal
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Festus2 View Post
1. Depending on where you live and where you are camped, there may be bylaws prohibiting you from "dumping" your FW water on the ground. If I want to get rid of it at the campsite, I check with the management to see if they allow it. I don't dump it when I am driving home and I don't like to see others do it either. I am never sure what is actually coming out of the RV when it is going down the road and I see what looks like clean water but who knows what it might be.
If I am going out again soon afterwards, I'll leave it in the tank.

2. If the RV is in storage, I leave mine in the "OPEN" position but they are not removed from the lines. Not sure if you are talking about the FW tank drain or the Hot and Cold water lines low point drain. If you are talking about the FW tank, when I winterize I pour a bit of pink solution into the bottom of the tank.

3. Your unit should have a HW tank bypass. On most units, it is located right behind the tank and you may have to remove a panel or drawer to get to it.

4. I'm not familiar with NC weather enough to comment.

5. Closing the valve for a very short time won't cause any problems but sometimes people forget, walk away and come back and find a mess. I leave my valve open since I am one of those forgetful types.

6. Your converter is also has a battery charging feature where it applies a float charge to the battery. Your battery needs to be charged up regularly and if it is in storage, I would take it home and put a trickle charger on it. You can place the battery on concrete or cement ------ it won't hurt it. Long time ago when the battery case was more porous than those made today, it was not a good idea to place a battery on cement.

7. Turn your pump off when you leave your camper in storage. It won't draw any current if you leave on but why would you want your pump on? If you winterize, your lines will be filled with either air or RV antifreeze so there is no need for the pump to be on.

8. Not sure what you mean by "preserving the latch". I just "close the door" and lock it.

Hope this helps and welcome to the forum!! I thought a "couple" meant 2. Sorry, you've used up your quota of question for this month. LOL
Thank you for all of your responces!! Guess I should have been a little more specific. I don't believe I will have to winterize, but I will worry about that later. I am mostly asking just for summer storage in between trips.

In regards to #2 I have 3 caps I can take off 3 different lines under my TT. I was told 1 is for fresh water and the other 2 are for the lines. I'm asking if I should leave the caps on or off.

In regards to #7 I should have specified I ment when we are camping. I read that people will turn them off when they leave the TT, but leave it on when inside and if it runs when no faucet is open you know you have a leak. But was curious if it draws any battery power (assuming I'm not on shore power) when it's in its "standby/pressurized" state.

In regards to #8, we rented a just over a year old TT and it was very hard to open and close, like the latch would get stuck. I guess I just assumed that was from slamming it closed. Might just have needed to be oiled or something. But was just wondering if there was a better way to close TT doors to minimize the wear and tear on them.

Well it's a good thing it's almost June and I can ask 8 more questions!!!
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