[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by CWtheMan

“The RV Industry Association is the national trade association representing RV manufacturers and their component parts suppliers who together build more than 98 percent of all RVs produced in the U.S., and approximately 60 percent of RVs produced worldwide.”

RVIA has mandated changes in Original Equipment (OE) tire load capacity recommendations and design upgrades that are probably already showing-up on all new RV trailer models that display their RVIA membership placard.

IMO, any RV trailer manufacturer member that wants to remain a member is going to comply with RVIAs recommendations.

The basics are very simple. All RV trailer tires larger than 13” in OD must be radial designed tires.

RVIA recommends RV trailer manufacturer’s provide a 10% load capacity reserve, above the certified GAWRs for all OE tires. That means, a RV trailer with 3500# GAWR axles must have tires that that can provide 1925# of load capacity when inflated to the trailer manufacturer’s recommended cold inflation pressures found on the vehicle certification label.

I hope anyone that has a 2018 or later model RV trailer with a RVIA placard, will challenge the validity of their OE tires, if they do not meet the new RVIA standard.

There are a lot of bias ply tires still available from wholesalers. The RVIA bias ply tire recommendations do not include replacement tires. The recommendation is not legally binding in any way. Therefore, they can still be used as replacements for any tire fitments above 13” OD. They are much less expensive than radials. For those that only travel locally and only a couple times a year, they are the most economical solution.

Remember, RVIAs recommendations are in no way binding on the RV trailer industry. There is nothing to prevent the vehicle manufacturer from just leaving the RVIA seal of approval off the trailers they manufacturer. The vehicle manufacturer is still free to use the FMVSS without any government repercussions.

Originally Posted by Snoking

There was a much easier solution in Michelin XPS Ribs or Bridgestone Duravis R250s. I ran RIBs in that configuration for 6.5 years, then a set of R250s for 4.5 years until the trailer was sold. Never a problem, seldom need tire added and I never looked back! Chris

Originally Posted by Javi

Which have a rating of 12,168 lbs. combined... Once again... even if I were so inclined, what would that actually accomplish... The axles are still the weak link by almost 1800 pounds and in fact what you suggest would make the rims the strongest element.. Mounting tires which have a lesser load rating solves nothing...

Originally Posted by Snoking

Because one puts tires problems behind you with either of these two tires. Lower rolling resistance, and longer thread and tire life. Chris

Originally Posted by sourdough

Russ, you are, and have been, a prolific voice for 1) LT tires vs ST tires and 2) disregarding gvw etc. I think, personally, that you mislead those that have no idea what LT, ST, gvw, gvwr mean. You tow overweight based on your perceived beliefs on whatever it is that you think is "the truth" even if it is outside the beliefs of most folks. By your measures, everything you do has performed better than anyone else that has ever towed an RV. That's spectacular , but, that isn't the case for everyone; and I, nor many other RV owners, buy into your thoughts. Your belief (I think it is you) that because you buy a tire with a higher speed rating LT tire (106 mph?) and then drive slower gives you MORE weight rating is just.....questionable at best. Please show the specs.

I have said that because the tire is rated for 3,042# at 106, that it has a higher reserve capacity at 60 to 70 mph. I will not exceed the tire weight rating.
I will say that a tire rated for 106 mph has better heat dissipation than a tire speed rated to 65 mph.

As to towing over the GVWR of my Ram, it tows, handles, brakes well. Yes, it has a PacBrake and optional from factory 265/75-16E tires at 3,415#. It is tough to get rid of a TV that tows so well. I don't encourage others to do it, if you look back I do encourage others to tow within ratings.
I will say that I seldom encourage moving from a 2500 to a 3500 SRW, basically the same truck. I usually encourage to go with a DRW.

I just convinced my DD to buy a 2004 Ram 3500 DRW to tow a four horse with small living quarters. This is the same trailer we towed home empty 250 mile with dads 2500, it still had a 2,600# pin empty.
We are currently looking at 2003 to 2007 Ram DRW to get away from our GVWR issue.