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I had this happen to my 1997 SW10Gallon just a couple years after buying. It was caused by the control electronic box located (usually) on top of the water tank. If you disconnect the box (usually easy to do) turn it upside down and look at the circuit board. On mine the circuits were burned underneath a small foam block. My theory is this piece of foam overheats the circuits. Take it off. I replaced the controller with one from State Trailer, and again removed the foam block. I mounted it on a thin block of aluminum (washers under the four mounts for about 1/3 inch clearance for air circulation. Mounted it back in place. Tested and it worked great. Sometimes I use both electric and Gas together, but usually use gas because it is faster. Cost was $35 I think. PS: I did go through the same checks you mentioned, replacing the ignitor with no change. This issue is posted on several websites as a "known problem" but they just don't say much about the foam block as the cause, but it is. Watched the bimetal switch with a DVOM and it worked fine. Has worked great for 4 years. Let folks know if this fixes your issue. I also start the propane water heater disconnected from the main electrical connection. After it is going I then connect to power with the 220 cord.
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